Well, somehow, me, a guy that never loses anything ever, managed to lose my whole freaking carabiner full of keys, including me & my fiancee's R53 keys. Hers is an '05 and mine is an '06. She luckily has one extra key but mine was the ONLY key I had to my car (which is blocking hers in.... so thats cool).

Reading through the forum, it looks like Mini changed key types / programming methods after '04. Here is what I would like to do, if possible:

De-activate all previous keys for both cars

Re-activate her remaining key

Have a second key cut for her car & program ourselves

Have two new keys cut for my car and program myself

Is this possible with the '04+ cars? I also realized my registration is locked in my glove compartment. What does Mini require to have new keys cut to the VIN?

 

Not sure how to deactivate your old keys....I would contact the dealer if there is no answer....

When I ordered extra keys to our Minis ..Both 2006...we had to bring a license AND the registration.

If the only copy to your registration is in the car, you can contact the department of vehicles..or....if you had work done at the dealer...they will have that info..

I would recommend in the future, a copy of both registrations in your car files.

The keys are expensive...but for me...I have always had 3 keys to each vehicle I have ever owned..

Good Luck

 

You'll likely need to order new keys amigo - get the license and reg out and head to the dealer.

 

The dealer can deactivate the old keys to prevent them from starting the car. You can't do this yourself (unless you have the diagnostic software tools).

The remote lock is a separate function, and the old keys will be deactivated when you program new keys for the remote lock (you can do this yourself). Keep in mind that if someone has an old key, they can still use it to get into your car with the mechanical door lock (unless you rekey the car).

You will need proof of registration to purchase new keys. You can get a locksmith to break into your car to get to the glovebox. Alternatively, if you're a AAA member, they can do some DMV services — check with them to see if they can issue a copy of your registration (of course you can do this directly through the DMV but probably takes more time and hassle).

It shouldn't have stopped working (it should at least start the car). If it's a remote key that hasn't been used in a long time, its battery for the remote lock transmitter may need to be recharged — this will happen automatically while driving.

 

It's not that her existing key would be de-activated, I just assumed the deactivating process for the missing keys would involve wiping the car's association with any fobs, then re-adding the new ones.

does anyone have insight to the programming & key ordering process? Can I order the keys by VIN & program them myself rather than paying the dealership a ton of $$ for a 5 minute process? From what I've read it seems like this should be possible since they're '05 & '06?

 

Key programming: http://new.minimania.com/Reprogram_N...Keys_R50_52_53

 

Key fobs have an association with the remote door lock, and separately, key fobs have an association that allows them to start the car. These two types of associations are handled by different modules in the car and they operate independently from each other.

The programming procedure in Zillon's link is for the remote door lock only. Once you start to program the remote lock, all keys will lose their remote lock pairing with the car. Then you have to reprogram (i.e. "pair") the keys you want to use for remote lock, all at once. Again, this is only for the remote door lock.

After you program the new key for the remote door lock, the lost key will no longer operate the remote door lock. However, the lost key will still work in the physical door lock, and it will still be able to start the car. To prevent a lost key from starting the car, you must have the dealer disable that key in the car's computer to make it no longer recognized.

You need to prove to the dealer that you are the registered owner of the car (with your drivers license and car registration). The dealer will order a new key from MINI corporate, based on VIN. The key will be sent FedEx from MINIUSA headquarters. When the key arrives, it will be pre-programmed for the VIN and it can start the car immediately. However, the new key won't work for the remote door lock until you program it using the procedure linked above.

 

Hmmm this is interesting. I've had my mini for a couple months now and the key provided to me starts the vehicle but none of the fob buttons work.

The previous owner said the battery is dead. I've tried the programming method in zillion's link so I believe it is.

I ordered a blank key blade from ebay, no fob, and was just going to get it cut. But that sounds like it won't work?

 

For face lift key fob lock/unlock programming, this might be easier to follow:

 

rkw has laid it out pretty well above and I will try to expand on this in order to clarify. For the two and three button "blade" type remote keys for the first generation, there are three distinct, separate parts contained inside the key.

1- The cut blade- opens the door, turns the ignition, fairly easy to duplicate at a good locksmith; I even have one of these cutting machines (I run a hobby business called MINI Key Hospital).

2- The remote board. For the two button keys the car must be coded to accept commands from the remote. This must be done if you order a new remote from the MINI dealer or are attempting to use a used remote. There is no series of button pushes to get this type of remote working for the first time with the car. There is a series of button pushes to re-pair these remotes with the car if they get out of sync. For the three button keys, they are mated with the car with a series of button pushes. The remote systems are not compatible with each other- a two button key won't work with the later cars and the three button keys won't work with the earlier ones.

3- The EWS chip. For the two button keys, there is a tiny, sort of coffin shaped "transponder" if you will inside of the key. Officially, it is the "ID-44" style. These are unique to the car and are programmed for the VIN by MINI Key Central (my name for it). These are passive and independent of the battery on the two button keys and actually sit in a small recess under the circuit board. These are also found in the "general, non-remote" style of key (obviously, without the remote) that are available for both the two (clamshell) and three (flat) button style of keys. For the flat, three button remote key the EWS chip is of a different design and is board mounted and wrapped with very thin wire, but is also independent of the rechargeable batteries on these boards. Like the ID-44 EWS chips, this is also programmed via the vin and is unique to the car.

So you can pair a three button remote with your car and have the blade cut but you still won't have a key that will start the car. Some independent shops can read your immobilizer in your car and write that info to a new, unused ID-44 chip. That ID-44 chip will then take the next available (of 10) EWS chip slots and you will have a working key, correct? Except that MINI USA doesn't know about this ID-44 chip, so if you or a subsequent owner orders a key from MINI USA it will also be created for this slot and won't start the car. There is a thread created on here by a NAM member from Portland who ran into this problem.

For even more info about these keys read up on this site which was created by another NAM member (it's got good pairing procedures and more):

https://sites.google.com/site/minian...verremotekeys/

Feel free to e-mail me at "minikeyhospital (at) outlook <dot> com" if you have any more questions or would like your existing key worked on.

Bruce

 

No, it won't. Read the above and you'll discover how complicated these keys are.

Bruce

 

Thanks so much for the info everyone. I just called the dealer and got quoted freaking $280 for ONE new key & "complimentary" programming. Good god. Are all dealership's pricing on stuff like this standardized? Would it be worth calling around for better prices?

 

I got a quote in November of somewhere around $380 (don't have the quote in front of me) for a new key/fob. 2012 Countryman S. I only got one key when I bought the car used. I fear losing mine too. I would definitely be SOL. May have to bite the bullet and get one with my tax return. Your story just may convince me I need a spare.

 

If you have a friend/family member that works at a car dealership, they should be able to get you some kind of discount.
I have a family member working at a Toyota dealership and he was able to get me several Mini parts 50% off the retail price.
Maybe someone here local can do you a favor?

 

$280.00 is a ripoff !!!!

I had several keys made 6 months ago $165.00 per key and they programed them.

Took Joel LESS than ONE minute !!!

I have 2.... 2006.... R50.... auto

 

Yes, prices do vary between dealers. They pay a wholesale price to MINIUSA and are free to set their own prices for customers.

 

Yap I see that now. Glad to learn something new. Will that "chip" ever go dead leaving the car inoperable?

My GTO had a similar device built-in...except once the FOB battery died, so did the "chip". Luckily I sold that car before it had a chance to strand me.

 

Hoooooooly crap, my keys turned up at the BART lost & found here in the Bay Area, all the way on the other side of the bay haha. Thankfully, all keys were in tact & I have access to my car again!

Now, to better prepare for something like this in the future, I am going to get a second key for my car. I was told some locksmiths can copy & program these keys the same as the dealer but for way, way cheaper. Any truth to this?

Thanks again to everyone for clarifying the complexity of these dumb keys!!

 

First off sorry about your luck. Not to thread jack but I've had one key for my r53 since I got it 4 years ago and I have had to bandage my key. The key itself fell out of the fob I had to drill a hole and put a new pin through it. Then the housing broke so I bought a new housing and the key mounted differently so mines literally glued in. It's been that way for nearly 2 years now. The only option I have found is to have the dealer sell me a new key fob for 300$. I can buy blanks and transfer my chip over and circuit board for like 8$ but no one can cut the laser etched keys. Is there any alternative source for this? Anyone online places I could send scaled images of my key to for cutting? As my only key I can't exactly send it off and risk not being able to access my car if needed.

 

If you can transfer the electronics in to another FOB and just need the key duplicated, has anyone tried 3D printing a key?

 

I think the only place that can cut a key without "duplicating" a first key is the MINI Key Central. I'm guessing they have a machine that is programmable to do cuts via the VIN. I have a side mill key cutting machine and they aren't that easy to duplicate. I had to do a lot of practice cuts before I was able to duplicate keys well enough for them to work reliably.

If you are going to DIY repair your key (I'm assuming it's a two button key) I have a how-to guide in the "electrical" section of the first generation forums. I strongly advise getting a shell from eBay seller "artiway" as he sells very nice shells. They are a bit more but they are worth it. You can also transfer the cut blade over to the new shell. If you have a flat, three button key the blade can't be transferred over- they are molded into the plastic case.

And as always, I strongly advise you to get a second key- the "general, non-remote" key is a good, lower cost (~$100) option.

If doing the key repair is something you don't think you can handle I do key repairs on the side.

Bruce

 

The most expensive key replacement I have heard of is when a friend lost his keys to both his Rolls and his Bentley at the same time. Total cost for both cars...over $7,000.00. Now, doesn't that make you feel better?

 

Not even the dealer can program the immobilizer smartchip in the fob that allows starting the car — they have to order keys programmed by VIN from MINI. This topic comes up often on the forum, and I have not seen anybody (literally not even one person) who has succeeded in a new working key through aftermarket sources. You can be sure that people are motivated to avoid the high cost and have tried.

If you only want to have an emergency key and want to save money, order a basic key without the remote lock transmitter. The price is much lower.

 

Chip programmers do exist- read this thread from a NAM member in Portland, OR:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...izer-chip.html

As you can see, this can lead to problems. There were two #5 immobilizer chips, one by the aftermarket key maker and one by MINI USA, who didn't know about the other #5.

Here is a link to a programmer:

http://us.ecutool.com/46-4D-48-Adapt...900_11568.html

Out of stock for some reason, but they do exist. In the long run, cheaper and more correct to just get one from the dealer.

Bruce

 

Time....hassle...hoping key will work......

Dealer only please...you do pay a premium.......BUT guaranteed to work....ONE DAY delivery