I'd take a very careful pass over a problem spot with the clay and LOTS of lubricant just to test it then work around them if that's called for. carnuba wax sets up very hard and protective. Ever seen a block of that stuff, it's like a brick. Sealant should be equally protective but I'd give those pealed and pealing spots an extra coat or three.

Here's what mine looks like inside:


Anyways, regarding the clearcoat - go ahead and spring for a re-freshening of the paint, especially since you've got some rock chips anyway.

Is the clear coat chipping, or has it just worn through?

Sounds good! I'll keep you posted, as I'm planning to spend a bit of time today making her pretty!

Beautiful Zillion! After I clean mine up a bit, I'll take some pics in and out.

The clear coat is chipping/flaking--which has me concerned. You have anyone to recommend around these PA parts?

However, I've got some other "issues" I'm watching...
Decided to check my tire pressures yesterday and no surprise, none of them were to the correct spec of 35psi. However, the LF tire (same location as the bad strut discovered via the PPI) was a good 5psi lower than the rest. Damn it!!! I hope the wheel isn't cracked! Are the Cross-Spoke Style 98 wheels prone to cracking? There is one used one for sale here, but if I do have a crack, I probably should just buy 4 new ones since all of mine have a good bit of rash on them and need cosmetic repair anyway. To fix the rash is probably $100 a piece, no? I found on ebay a mini dealer selling each wheel for $325, so if I was able to get Ottos to get them and get 20% off parts (I joined PhillyMini) it would be roughly $1k minus $400=$600 bucks.

I also have the "squeaky" clutch pedal noise. I searched and found the noise isn't uncommon with minis. Just hope this doesn't turn into something more!
And this morning, I'm taking my wife out to re-introduce her on how to drive stick--say a prayer! Not like I'm some pro by any stretch. Before this mini, I haven't consistently driven a manual car since 2003 when I purchased my 350Z!

Overall, I just want to enjoy the car a good stretch, like until the summer (knock on wood), before having to dump more money into it!!! lol

In our area, these guys have a really good rep for doing high-quality bodywork: http://classiccoachwork.com/

The R98s have an issue with corrosion on the lip, which can work its way into the tire bead area and cause leaks if it really gets that bad. If you're really attached to that particular set of wheels, you can have them re-done, but you'd be better off buying a newer/new set.

And regarding the clutch squeak/crunch - that's due to a part called the guide tube, which becomes an issue on R53s over time. It's a metal sleeve that the throwout fork rides on - and it's fairly cheap, but to replace it requires removing the trans (and clutch/flywheel). Probably not too bad right now, but you'll notice that it'll get worse over time. If you keep the car long enough (and teach your wife how to drive stick) you may want to think about doing the clutch/flywheel/throwout bearing and guide tube.

Also, welcome to Philly MINI! Be sure to join the Facebook group and website to keep up to date on local MINI happenings.

Got this email from Griot's Garage yesterday. Performances like this should give you great hope. Be sure to click on the 'inmygarage.com' link for a few more pictures.
http://links.griotsgarage.com/YesCon...D-BBkoRfw=.enc

+1
If relearning to drive a stick, be VERY carful in a MINI to NOT RIDE the clutch...
The throw-out bearings are pretty bad....mine rattled for the better part of 5 years...was just waiting for it to fail or hoping the clutch would wear out faster.....sold it after 10 years with the original clutch...so guess I was nice to it..

Again, +1
Not riding the clutch means left foot on the floor at ALL times unless shifting gears even stopped at intersections or just idling. Put it in neutral and get off the clutch. To preserve the TO bearing and clutch plate for their longest life span, clutch ALL the way to the floor every time.

Thanks again guys!

My wife actually wasn't that bad and surprised me! You must have been reading my mind, as I kept watching her left foot to make sure it was not on the clutch!

I checked my LF tire again this morning and all 4 were the same. Probably my paranoia sinking in with just not wanting to find anything else wrong with the car just yet. My appt at Ottos is this week--wish me luck!

Here are a few pics after a good wash/sealant. I'll probably start a new thread on how pretty she is

And here's a few of Stanley!

Thanks Zillon. I think I recall reading some positive reviews about classic coach work. May have to eventually check out their West Chester location.

So the clutch squeak is more an annoyance than an imminent mechanical failure?

Re: Philly Mini, I'm not on FB, but I've been checking out their forum

Me again!

Tell me your opinions...I'm in PA and got this car from MD which has front plates, PA does not. Obviously when I removed the MD front plates I have two holes in the bumper. Should I leave as is, purchase bumper plugs (which seem relative expensive for what they are), or use one of my Zoll plates from when I did European Delivery on my M4?

Also, rally lights, keep the PIAA covers on or off?

My clutch squeaked a bit....never had an issue...might want too look to be sure it's dry, and not weeping, but mine squeaked on and off for a few years....seemed to be temperature dependant.
Imo a euro plate on a us car kinda looks a bit doushy...maybe just due to my background....guess depends on the other items you add on to dress up a car, but MINI are about individualism so it is about what you like.

Yea, if you're gonna do the euro plate go ahead and put a bunch of union jack stuff on too. Side view caps, all over the top and bonnet and boot stripes. Go all out.

I'd just get the plugs and forgo the euro plate. And the clutch squeak will eventually turn into a crunch and that's when you should start thinking about repair work.

Also, get yourself a cargo area cover to protect the interior from dirt and dog hair.

Yeah, I'm not feeling the zoll plate either. Too bad the bumper isn't black like my previous 335is from a few years back which I had transferred from MD (also had a front plate). I just went to Lowes and found these black plastic plugs that cost pennies and it worked out well.

I am thinking of plasti dipping the chrome strip black to match the upper section (not about to get the aero bumper) and also black out the PIAA logos.

Regarding the clutch noise, hopefully my clutch is similar to Zippy's and won't turn into a big deal--here's hoping at least!!!

Latest issues as of this afternoon. I missed my turn and had to turn around in a tight parking lot full lock and it was the farthest from feeling fluid/smooth. More notchy and made noise. Could this be related to my bushings needing replacement or something else? Also, when cursing along and I let off the gas still in gear, I do feel somewhat of a lurch. There's another a thread here about the same issue. I was reading ball joints or engine mounts?

When it rains it pours...

Welcome to MINI ownership my friend.

Fun little creatures they are, when they're 100% sorted.

A lurch would indicate you may need to look into your engine mounts. Make sure your passenger side isn't leaking (common failure point).

You should really look into getting your car over to Helix and have either Eric (the owner) or Marzo (lead tech) give your car a full once-over. They'll be able to tell you 100% what's going on.

Makes me think what I wasted $300 on the PPI for. Really how "comprehensive" could it be???

My appt with Ottos is Thurs for the PPI recommendations (thermostat, bushings, strut mount)--wonder if they'll "find" other problems related to these latest issues. Maybe I will take a look into Helix. They quoted the same price as Ottos to complete the PPI jobs, but I'm sure their focus is better at extending the longevity of these cars. As for Bimmerworks, I emailed them again yesterday for the estimate, and nothing

Helix knows better than many about keeping the early MINIs on the road - there aren't many places I trust to work on my own cars, and I do trust them.

Despite the distance, I would be all for Helix's if only they had loaners. I did find an Enterprise Rental a few blocks away if push comes to shove. I checked out their website again this morning and found a price sheet listed of jobs which was helpful to read to get a sense of labor costs.

You mentioned trusting Ottos as well, so I'm going to give them a chance. However, if this quickly becomes hemorrhaging, I will have to turn elsewhere!
Currently, I'm playing phone tag with Bimmerworks...

I'd just get a 2nd opinion.

Also - I thought you had a M4?

LOL, No longer have the M4, traded for the Jag.
Only remaining Bimmer in the house is my wife's X5 with MPPK & MPE.

BTW, heard back from Bimmerworks, basically the same as Ottos and Helix.
I'll keep you posted with how I make out at Ottos tomorrow. Finger's crossed!

Hey Kief, just catching up on your thread. Congratulations again on a great find.

If you plan on keeping the Copper for a long time and do not need it for a daily driver and you have a garage to work in I would highly recommend you do the work yourself and enjoy the side hobby of doing your own work. As you are finding out shop rates kill repairs on the Mini. I just picked up a 03 Copper S which needs a lot of repairs------I have had the front end off twice and now just ordered motor mounts (3) and will be changing the crank pulley as well. There are a lot of how to videos out there for the Mini which really help. I have done the brakes changing pads and rotors. I am NOT a mechanic but am learning fast on how to work on the Mini. It is not a daily driver so if it needs repairs it can sit up on the jacks until I find the time to do what needs to be done. I plan on doing a few autox events in the future to keep things interesting. So far I have saved a few grand in labor with a few bucks typed up in toolsincluding some air tools. I'm sure you could find a local Mini enthusiast/ Mini owner to help. I unfortunately live in the country and have to do repairs by myself.

Okay guys, everything for the most part came out good--still need to pick up tomorrow. But they did discover the low stage cooling fan is inoperable.

Of course the shop wants to replace the entire unit for $618 p/l, but my buddy says there is a "low speed fan resistor" that could potentially resolve the issue. Can anyone help out this noob???

BTW, the low stage cooling fan should have been discovered during the PPI! Makes me question what else was missed and/or why I spent the dough to get it done in the first place!!!

The fan resistor is a very common problem. You can either fix the resistor, or buy the whole fan for around $70.

I just replaced the fan on mine but I think the resistor is a pretty easy fix too.

$618 lol....