So the mini (06 R53, 80k on the clock) has been parked for about a week. Took it out today and the exhaust doesn't sound as deep and throaty as it usually does. Sounds 'tinny' - like somethings loose or there's an air leak or something. Nothing on the pipe feels loose and I don't see any gaps or anything moving. Any ideas?

 

I have no success playing your attachments but my first thought is catalytic converter.

 

I didn't check out the video (sucky internet) but check the front side of the cat, along the seam. They fail there quite a bit. Also check right before the pre-cat. They also fail there, but usually leaves the exhaust loose, and very loud. Exhaust shops can weld both up, the main cat can usually be done while still on the car,

Nik

 

Sounds like a leak. A crack doesn't need to be big to make a crappy sound. If you can get it on a lift or just jack it up and have it running, you'll be able to hear it or feel it by passing your hand on top of the exhaust (carefully of course).

 

For those that can't see the videos (they're on youtube), click the links or copy and paste the following:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOo7bWbo1Zk

www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvhOdfcSKS8

 

I will see if I can get it on a lift. I put it on ramps last night but couldn't get under it enough .. and I didn't 'see' anything. I could hear it for sure. 'Sounds' like it's located near the back half of the car but I can't imagine what it would be back there.

 

I will check. Am I looking for a hole?

 

Let's hope not.

 

If you hold your hand and/or a rag over the tailpipe to seal it temporarily
(with a COLD engine,please, right after starting it up), or have someone else
do that, leaks further up become much more obvious and easier to locate.

 

I hope this helps. Wonder if your header cracked, that might create the different sound you are experiencing. If that is true, when it finally breaks, you will know immediately as the MINI will sound like a hot rod.

Pics from my experience…





Underneath the car and over the swaybar

 

I will certainly look for that. How is that normally supposed to look when it's in place? One solid piece? Does the metal of the lower part connect to the outer (housing) of the upper part? Reason I ask - it looks like there is metal around the white thing in the center, which is then surrounded by the housing.

 

I will try this too - see if I can figure it out. Just trying to find it so I can fix it.

 

It may be difficult to see if it has cracked… run the test that cristo mentioned and see if that helps.

Below is a pic of what the factory manifold looks like in ONE piece. The manifold/header is in a tough place. It is secured to the cylinder head (backside of motor, in front of firewall) and then attaches underneath to the exhaust system. It has nowhere to move. So when the motor revs/moves over time, it puts pressure on the manifold/header and locates the “weak link”. Picture a piece of wire that you fold back and forth many times. What happens? The part where the crease forms becomes weak and eventually cracks and snaps. Similar process here with the factory setup. That is, of course, assuming that this is what you are experiencing now.

I don’t think MINI thought that there would be any weak links on the factory header. Apparently, there are and this is common. I understand that this break may be accelerated due to motor/transmission mounts that are shot. They would allow more movement and flexing to put pressure on the manifold/header.



Hope this helps.

 

What is the exhaust on the right (the shiny new one) and is that a direct replacement? Does it also have this 'weakness'? I will do more investigating and let you all know what I find.

 

Not sure of the piece on the right, its aftermarket for sure... In fact, it doesnt look like it would be street legal. It is a straight piece designed (I believe) for track use only. There is no catalytic converter on that header.

The weakness on the factory piece deals with the location/joint right after the pre-catalytic converter. The white stuff you see inside is a charcoal filter for emissions. Apparently, that section is not as strong as everything else. So its the first to go.

Going after an aftermarket header will or should eliminate the pre-cat all together.

Below pic is from my thread showing the 2-piece OEM header (read broken) and the replacement Milltek header. You can compare the two and notice the pre-cat is gone from the Milltek unit.



If your header is cracked, just make sure you research whatever setup you are interested in... there are stories out there where people went the cheap(er) route and are throwing CEL codes post-repair. So why bother? I went Milltek to match the catback system.

 

If I need a new one, I have no problem buying quality. For the rear, I currently have an Invidia Titanium catback.

 

Oh good. as long as you have resources, you have options.

Now, its just time to figure out what changed or what went south.

 

I've been trying to pay attention more .. something new I've noticed. While in neutral, if I really step on the pedal, it sounds like it's gasping for air and then spins up. Any relation?

 

I think I found the issue. Putting my hand over the top of this pipe, I could feel the exhaust pulsing out - where the two pipes come together right before the gas tank.

Pic 5 (rg01e) is of the original exhaust connecting to the catback.

 

A few shots of the 2 'canisters' in the front of where the connection in the above post is.

 

A shot of behind where the connection is, one of the dual breakouts.

 

Interesting pics... Looks like a gasket let go? Maybe this will be an easy fix yet.

 

That'll do it! cheap fix, looks like those bolts may be a bit of a pain to get off. Be sure to soak them with a bit of liquid wrench before trying to get off. The rest of the exhaust looks good.

Nik

 

I'm hoping - those are the best kinds of fixes, the easy ones.

I'm thinking they will probably need to be cut off and replaced.

 

Soak the heck out of it! hehe