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Hey guys so this is how the clutch came apart on my 06 hardtop s last night. It completely blew apart. Anyone have some advice on how to get the fiber out if the bell housing? I had planed on just using break cleaner and elbow grease to get it the best I could. Thanks guys
Hi, Matthew! Try the spray, let it set for a bit, maybe 10 minutes, and then powerwash. Should do the trick! We have a number of articles on clutch repair that may help.
I just got home and looked at the bell housing a little closer and noticed a nice grove on the one side it's pretty deep to. Is this something to be considered about?
Just sounded like a grinding noise. I drove the car for an hr after I left the dealer. I shifter prolly 30-40 times if that so who knows what it looked like before I got it lol
Ouch. Definitely clean everything up as best you can. Did you just buy the MINI? If you need it, we have some awesome super kits HERE that have everything you'll want to replace while you're in there doing the job. Are you thinking of maybe going with the single mass flywheel conversion? We also have a great DIY that could help you tackle the job yourself.
Ouch. Definitely clean everything up as best you can. Did you just buy the MINI? If you need it, we have some awesome super kits HERE that have everything you'll want to replace while you're in there doing the job. Are you thinking of maybe going with the single mass flywheel conversion? We also have a great DIY that could help you tackle the job yourself.
Yeah I've had it for a month now. Clutch failed on my way home from the dealer which is about 50 Mike's away and I made it about 40 before I had to stop at a light and then I could no longer get it into gear. Just finally made a settlement with the dealer for some money which was $300. So last weekend I started the job. I ended up going with the valeo single mass conversion kit which should be here today. What's the best way to clean the bell housing? Wire brush with break clean, gas, degreasee then rinse out and wipe it down with a clean rag? Should I separate the bell from the trans to clean the bell so I don't get gunk in the trans and dry/damage the seals in the trans????
Yeah I've had it for a month now. Clutch failed on my way home from the dealer which is about 50 Mike's away and I made it about 40 before I had to stop at a light and then I could no longer get it into gear. Just finally made a settlement with the dealer for some money which was $300. So last weekend I started the job. I ended up going with the valeo single mass conversion kit which should be here today. What's the best way to clean the bell housing? Wire brush with break clean, gas, degreasee then rinse out and wipe it down with a clean rag? Should I separate the bell from the trans to clean the bell so I don't get gunk in the trans and dry/damage the seals in the trans????
Glad they did. I was going to say, bought a new car and while driving home this happened so I'd definitely go back to the dealer about it. That conversion is great and you'll enjoy it. Did you also buy at least a new rear main seal? It's always good to replace, especially seals, during this job as you'll have access to them easily. I have always used brake spray and a wire brush. You might want to order an input seal as sometimes the brake spray can distort/damage the rubber lip, but not always.
Glad they did. I was going to say, bought a new car and while driving home this happened so I'd definitely go back to the dealer about it. That conversion is great and you'll enjoy it. Did you also buy at least a new rear main seal? It's always good to replace, especially seals, during this job as you'll have access to them easily. I have always used brake spray and a wire brush. You might want to order an input seal as sometimes the brake spray can distort/damage the rubber lip, but not always.
Well the funny thing is that it took 3 weeks for someone to finally try to settle on something with me but I had to say that legal matters would be taken from now on and they'd be getting a call from my lawyer about it. I'm getting the rear main on friday. Is the input seal the one behind the guide tube? If so I'm also getting that seal and the guide tube on Friday. Have to wait till pay day sadly but hey that's balling on a college student budget. I'm just finally happy it's getting fixed. How about the grove in the bell housing.... Should I be concerned about that? It's shown in a picture up a couple replies
Well, it's unfortunate it came to that, but glad you were able to get something. $300, in my opinion, is not enough. I wouldn't be concerned about the grove since it looks like it's probably the pressure plate that did it. Yes, it's behind the cover/guide tube. This is your input shaft seal: (image from our tech article)
Well, it's unfortunate it came to that, but glad you were able to get something. $300, in my opinion, is not enough. I wouldn't be concerned about the grove since it looks like it's probably the pressure plate that did it. Yes, it's behind the cover/guide tube. This is your input shaft seal: (image from our tech article)
Yeah I don't think 300 is enough either but it was either that or nothing at all so I took what I could. At least it paid for most of the clutch and I'm only out my time and a few other little pieces. But I've gained a lot more knowledge so I can't complain there. OK cool thanks the reassuring it's fine cuz I wasn't sure if it would need to be replaced or not. OK I'll have to pick one if those up to on Friday. Anything else I should make sure isn't worn to bad?
From the photo it's difficult to tell the depth of the groove. Since it appears to be a flat "U"-shaped groove and not a "V"-shaped grove, and if the depth of the groove is less than 20% of the total bell housing thickness at the groove location, then I'd be okay to re-use the housing. Again, this is our opinion and not an engineering recommendation. Hope this helps and let us now how the repair progresses!
From the photo it's difficult to tell the depth of the groove. Since it appears to be a flat "U"-shaped groove and not a "V"-shaped grove, and if the depth of the groove is less than 20% of the total bell housing thickness at the groove location, then I'd be okay to re-use the housing. Again, this is our opinion and not an engineering recommendation. Hope this helps and let us now how the repair progresses!
The grove is prolly right around .5mm to 1mm deep so I think it will be fine. I got the clutch alssyembled and on now I just have to come up with a way to put the trans back in the car without a trans jack. Other than that it should be smooth sailing after I figure this out. Any tips how how to get the trans in without a trans jack? And align the shaft into the clutch?
Floor jack is easier to use than a tranny jack sometimes.
If you centered the clutch the shaft should go right in
Well that's part of my problem is my jack has a small plate on it and to keep the tranny on it is a task and a half by itself. So it's either buy a nice floor jack or a tranny jack both are about the same price. I used the alignment tool but don't know if it's a little off or is the splines on the input shaft are rotated just enough to not slide in. I tried for about 3 hrs last night trying to get the trans back in and can't seem to get the position right with the tools I have.
Well that's part of my problem is my jack has a small plate on it and to keep the tranny on it is a task and a half by itself. So it's either buy a nice floor jack or a tranny jack both are about the same price. I used the alignment tool but don't know if it's a little off or is the splines on the input shaft are rotated just enough to not slide in. I tried for about 3 hrs last night trying to get the trans back in and can't seem to get the position right with the tools I have.
What if I take the cover off the end of the trans side farthest from the clutch. Can you see the input shaft and get a better visual of how everything is positioned?
The alignment tool is pretty worthless for the mini. I just felt all around the pressure plate to make sure the clutch felt evenly placed all the way around. I would loosen up the pressure plate again just to make sure.
Also super important that the engine and tranny are at the same angle.
I would buy a good, low profile floor jack. You'll get more use out of it
What if I take the cover off the end of the trans side farthest from the clutch. Can you see the input shaft and get a better visual of how everything is positioned?
Nope. Just be sure the clutch is centered correctly and muscle it in with an assistant. Lube the splines with some anti-seize and shake that box around until it slides in (insert NSFW innuendo here). To go back a couple of posts, you'll be fine with the groove in the BH: don't worry about it. Just be sure you didn't punch a hole in the trans case where the diff is. If it's dry, you're ok.
The alignment tool is pretty worthless for the mini. I just felt all around the pressure plate to make sure the clutch felt evenly placed all the way around. I would loosen up the pressure plate again just to make sure.
Also super important that the engine and tranny are at the same angle.
I would buy a good, low profile floor jack. You'll get more use out of it
Yeah I noticed that it's pretty useless as well. I think I have 3 problems. 1 splines of rotation just enough to give me a hard time. 2 not enough strength to maniver it around with me a my fiancee. 3 crappy jack. I'm gunna try again later this afternoon after work and buy a jack. Havnt decided on jack or tranny jack yet tho.....hmmm
One thing I've learned is to make sure it's all lined up, step back and look at it, then once you're sure, push the f@#$%r on
Got any tips to make sure it's lined up? I tryed lining up one hole and sticking a rod in the hole to keep it close and moving it around but I end up moving it to far and to rotates weird and it just being a pain in the *** to do. It's getting frustrating.
Got any tips to make sure it's lined up? I tryed lining up one hole and sticking a rod in the hole to keep it close and moving it around but I end up moving it to far and to rotates weird and it just being a pain in the *** to do. It's getting frustrating.
With the motor hanging, you can get your eye lined up with the center of the flywheel. You might have to remove the wheel arch liner to get your noggen in there. make sure that you are completely square with the motor and then look at the teeth of the pressure plate. Are they centered in relation to the output shaft journal (the hole in the center)? Do you have the clutch centering too, btw?
With the motor hanging, you can get your eye lined up with the center of the flywheel. You might have to remove the wheel arch liner to get your noggen in there. make sure that you are completely square with the motor and then look at the teeth of the pressure plate. Are they centered in relation to the output shaft journal (the hole in the center)? Do you have the clutch centering too, btw?
Okay that's how I'm doing it. Yes I have the centering tool that came with the kit which I've noticed doesn't really do much. I may actually take off the driver side suspension completely. Taking the shock and break assembly would free up alot more room to work and look around. I already have the inner liner off. What's the best way to get the rotation of the trans correct? It seems like I can get the bottom of the trans lined up with the bolt holes but I can't pick the whole trans up and rotate it around to line the rest up and side it in. It's just fighting me the whole way no matter what I do.
It sounds like your jack is one of the problems. If your fighting to keep the tranny on it, it's going to be even harder to get it in there. You're going to get a new one today so that should help a lot.
As far as centering the clutch, just loosen the pressure plate some if it's too hard to move around.
04-05-2016, 11:57 AM
