Yea, i can hear spinning but cannot tell when its on / off in the video. I know older asphalts can be a pain as it tends to break apart and throw pebbles everywhere , then at the end of the day you are slipping on what feels like gravel, did not know if thats end of day, a new tack or what. I had issues with spinning and the track falling apart. Eevn when i replaced the front end and rear end bushings. You will learn the balance of the car after many runs and you will find the balance.

 

end of day, older parkinglot and I was going wide into all the rubber from the day

 

I had issues with those older lots , newer lots get slippery when new from the oils, firts couple years. Best is a 5 year old lot thats has had a good final pave. Very flat. No big drains / slopes.

 

will increasing rear swaybar help keep front tires grip more under power? I have the bar at it's middle setting right now

 

Keeps it more flat in the corners for sure. Adjust it and then make another run. See what changes.

 

but also need to keep some power (or none) to the wheels otherwise youll get snap oversteer

 

yeah like the vid I posted still learning the limits on that, maybe I should keep it at the middle setting for now

 

Plenty of roll bars info out there remember springs under load want to expand and once they start they don't want to stop. Also suspensions are alive always moving...... and so there is a whole timing thing of forces shifting. beside adding levelness a heavier rear roll bar puts a bit more force faster to the rear wheel which in turn gives a chance to develop as much slip angle as you can allowing the rear to move. You do your own alignments so you know a little angle can do a lot. A softer front and you get a slight delay in full force. tires are elastic spring like and tire pressure effects elasticity but you also need slip angles so sidewall and outer blocking really interest me. Also I try and think through power coast and brake, yes no coasting in racing but its a neutral position so always there. Then I stop thinking and wish there was more room to spin out......

 

I think I would stiffen the rear sway bar and see if it helps (I think it will) or better yet, if you can do a run with it set the way it is, and then change it and see if you're faster or slower, that would give you some data to make a decision on. You might even find that you need different settings for different courses to balance the car.

I did my first autocross event recently and I struggled with the same thing, part of it for me is patience and waiting to try and really put the power down until I can straighten out the wheel.

I do have a couple of driving notes from watching your videos, my first is what's up with your hand position on the steering wheel? I don't know much about autocross, but in racing we pretty much always keep our hands between 9-3 and 10-2. You spent alot of time at 10 and 12. It does look like sometimes you need more than a half turn of the wheel so maybe it's some autocross trick I don't know about but I think you'd have more control and be smoother with the wheel if you either shuffled your hands, or did a cross over.

I also think you're being pretty smooth with your pedal inputs from what it sounds like but I think you could be smoother. I think you lost the back end on the second video because you were getting understeer and you snapped off the throttle which unweighted the rear end and sent it around.

Racing is all about being smooth, you had a great result and you're doing alot of things well, but I think if you can slow things down inside the car, you'll go faster.

 

lots of hair pin turns where you need to do a 180 at a cone, the real fast bmw's were power sliding/drifting around some of them

 

MINIs can turn, thats for sure. Cone assassins