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Hi all,
After struggling with my R50 and it's spongey brakes I finally found a method that worked ( at least for me ,and my mini.)
First, check entire system for leaks, low pads, correctly installed in rear calipers, etc. If all good proceed.
You need a pressure bleeder hooked up to the master cylinder res. , pressurize to 20 psi or so, and speedbleeders at all four corners.
Also need autoengenuity mini enhanced s/w.
With all 4 wheels off the ground, start with right rear, engage brake bleed mode, and when directed crack bleeder valve on caliper.
When brake bleed mode complete, pump the brake pedal 10 to 12 times.
Close bleed screw, and repeat for remainder of calipers.
This method totally worked for me, as breaks work wonderfully with a high hard pedal!! .
I've done it successfully the two person way, after changing pads or during my R56 caliper swap. But I have read complaints that if you let a lot of air in (either by accident or when replacing a main part ) it's hard to bleed the ABS/DSC valve body. I haven't had to, so can't comment on that.
Will a pressure bleeder remove fluid from an abs also? I am looking for a complete fluid change. Would locking the brakes on a dirt road to activate the abs several times cycle enough fluid to clean out the ABS? Or is it needed to buy the equipment to communicate with the controller I had a vapor lock event several months ago and replaced the fluid but never quite sure if any vapors were ingested
Would locking the brakes on a dirt road to activate the abs several times cycle enough fluid to clean out the ABS?
i tried that on wet pavement; it didnt make any differecne for me.
My situation: i had swapped the front calipers on my R53 to new R56 bits. Did the 2-person bleed process twice, did it until new fluid came through on each caliper. Brakes dont feel bad...not sure if the pressure bleed will make them better.