R50/53 What to look for, or avoid, in a used R53?
What to look for, or avoid, in a used R53?
NAM members,
I currently own a 2013 Countryman S which my wife now enjoys driving.
I am looking to buy a used Cooper S that I can use as both my commuter car, and one that I can play with/fix up and possibly take to the track for fun.
On the recommendation of others, I am looking at R53s (manual trans).
Is there anything that I should be looking for in these older Minis that would be a red flag?
I have checked out the forums for info...but there is so much here I may have missed some good tips. So links to those posts or other recommendations are welcome.
Thanks
DV
I currently own a 2013 Countryman S which my wife now enjoys driving.
I am looking to buy a used Cooper S that I can use as both my commuter car, and one that I can play with/fix up and possibly take to the track for fun.
On the recommendation of others, I am looking at R53s (manual trans).
Is there anything that I should be looking for in these older Minis that would be a red flag?
I have checked out the forums for info...but there is so much here I may have missed some good tips. So links to those posts or other recommendations are welcome.
Thanks
DV
You want an '05 or an '06 MCS (better gear ratios) preferably with limited slip (rare) and no sunroof (saves 80 lb.) The biggest "red flag" would be one that had only had oil maintenance as required by the on-board computer. Better to find one that had a decent distance commute than one with short, stop-and-go trips. Find an enthusiast's car rather than one used for just transportation.
I agree on the no sunroof, the gear ratio is reported to be better on the low end of the 05,06. But all share the same leaks and squeaks. My 03 has 243k and has only had the oil changed every 12k miles like the computer suggests. However, most people forget to check their oil between changes every 6 months. A mcs will consume all of its oil even with no leak in the interval suggested by the computer. If the interior is worn badly you can upgrade the seats to r56, or a racing seat. The lid may be hard to find. But you can include it with your clutch job.
I would agree that the '05 and '06 are marginally better cars than previous MYs. However...
You'll likely pay for that marginal desirability. The '06 MY versions are now ten years old, and finding one well under 100K miles on the clock (with decent records) will be tough - and if you do, you'll pay dearly for it. After at least ten years on the road and (likely) multiple owners, Gen 1 R53s are all "pig in a poke" purchases. Yes, definitely manual; the weight savings of the sunroof delete would be a trade-off for the open-air feeling while in a rather cramped interior. Most other parts and wear is interchangeable with all years of Gen 1.
You'll want to check everything as you would for any 10-year-old car, plus: look for rust in the lower door jambs (pull up the rubber weatherstrip), as well as in the hatch and around the taillights; if they haven't been replaced yet, figure on replacing the lower control arm bushings (LCA's) and motor mounts; perhaps ball joints too; find out what you can about the supercharger and coolant pump (listen for the "death rattle"); make sure the radiator fan works in both low- and high-speed circuits... You're gonna mod it? You're gonna track it? You'll be upgrading/replacing suspension components, etc. These are common issues with R53s and not impossible to fix, but if found they should lower the purchase price.
Don't worry about the minor "benefits" of the later model years and get yourself a bargain '02-'04 for around/under $5,000.
You'll likely pay for that marginal desirability. The '06 MY versions are now ten years old, and finding one well under 100K miles on the clock (with decent records) will be tough - and if you do, you'll pay dearly for it. After at least ten years on the road and (likely) multiple owners, Gen 1 R53s are all "pig in a poke" purchases. Yes, definitely manual; the weight savings of the sunroof delete would be a trade-off for the open-air feeling while in a rather cramped interior. Most other parts and wear is interchangeable with all years of Gen 1.
You'll want to check everything as you would for any 10-year-old car, plus: look for rust in the lower door jambs (pull up the rubber weatherstrip), as well as in the hatch and around the taillights; if they haven't been replaced yet, figure on replacing the lower control arm bushings (LCA's) and motor mounts; perhaps ball joints too; find out what you can about the supercharger and coolant pump (listen for the "death rattle"); make sure the radiator fan works in both low- and high-speed circuits... You're gonna mod it? You're gonna track it? You'll be upgrading/replacing suspension components, etc. These are common issues with R53s and not impossible to fix, but if found they should lower the purchase price.
Don't worry about the minor "benefits" of the later model years and get yourself a bargain '02-'04 for around/under $5,000.
I would agree that the '05 and '06 are marginally better cars than previous MYs. However...
You'll likely pay for that marginal desirability. The '06 MY versions are now ten years old, and finding one well under 100K miles on the clock (with decent records) will be tough - and if you do, you'll pay dearly for it. After at least ten years on the road and (likely) multiple owners, Gen 1 R53s are all "pig in a poke" purchases. Yes, definitely manual; the weight savings of the sunroof delete would be a trade-off for the open-air feeling while in a rather cramped interior. Most other parts and wear is interchangeable with all years of Gen 1.
You'll want to check everything as you would for any 10-year-old car, plus: look for rust in the lower door jambs (pull up the rubber weatherstrip), as well as in the hatch and around the taillights; if they haven't been replaced yet, figure on replacing the lower control arm bushings (LCA's) and motor mounts; perhaps ball joints too; find out what you can about the supercharger and coolant pump (listen for the "death rattle"); make sure the radiator fan works in both low- and high-speed circuits... You're gonna mod it? You're gonna track it? You'll be upgrading/replacing suspension components, etc. These are common issues with R53s and not impossible to fix, but if found they should lower the purchase price.
Don't worry about the minor "benefits" of the later model years and get yourself a bargain '02-'04 for around/under $5,000.
You'll likely pay for that marginal desirability. The '06 MY versions are now ten years old, and finding one well under 100K miles on the clock (with decent records) will be tough - and if you do, you'll pay dearly for it. After at least ten years on the road and (likely) multiple owners, Gen 1 R53s are all "pig in a poke" purchases. Yes, definitely manual; the weight savings of the sunroof delete would be a trade-off for the open-air feeling while in a rather cramped interior. Most other parts and wear is interchangeable with all years of Gen 1.
You'll want to check everything as you would for any 10-year-old car, plus: look for rust in the lower door jambs (pull up the rubber weatherstrip), as well as in the hatch and around the taillights; if they haven't been replaced yet, figure on replacing the lower control arm bushings (LCA's) and motor mounts; perhaps ball joints too; find out what you can about the supercharger and coolant pump (listen for the "death rattle"); make sure the radiator fan works in both low- and high-speed circuits... You're gonna mod it? You're gonna track it? You'll be upgrading/replacing suspension components, etc. These are common issues with R53s and not impossible to fix, but if found they should lower the purchase price.
Don't worry about the minor "benefits" of the later model years and get yourself a bargain '02-'04 for around/under $5,000.
I have been looking for a Gen 1 as well, specifically - a blue 06 S manual hardtop with the 8 spoke wheels. I can deal with a sunroof if I have to.
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Other than slightly better gearing and +7 horsepower and torque, there's not much difference between the two ... they all share the same common problems.
Oil leaks, timing chain rattle, check the clutch to make sure it's not slipping, airbag lights shouldn't be on, suspension should feel nice and not make any weird noises. Make sure it's not overheating. Check for rust! I guess the usual stuff with buying any used car. Out of the 2 mini's I've worked on, both had developed an oil leak within a month after purchasing.
Check out the motoring file R53 buyers guide here.
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The most obvious and important thing to look for in my opinion is strut tower mushrooming... they will all have it ... its only a question of how much
That said the suspension on the R53s is so fragile its likely a strut or control arm needs some work
Above 100k miles and I would def change the fuel filter .... do all gaskets you will likely have to do a rear main seal at soem point too ... if youre trackign it ... these problems will make themselves known to you :D
That said the suspension on the R53s is so fragile its likely a strut or control arm needs some work
Above 100k miles and I would def change the fuel filter .... do all gaskets you will likely have to do a rear main seal at soem point too ... if youre trackign it ... these problems will make themselves known to you :D
You should absolutely get an 05-06 because:
-The gearing makes it a much nicer car to drive, for stop start and acceleration.
- the body will still be covered under the 12 year corrosion warranty
- airbag seat sensor is currently under recall
The airbag and rust coverage saved me almost 4,000 dollars
-The gearing makes it a much nicer car to drive, for stop start and acceleration.
- the body will still be covered under the 12 year corrosion warranty
- airbag seat sensor is currently under recall
The airbag and rust coverage saved me almost 4,000 dollars
Not necessarily 'instead of', just that the benefits of the later models are mostly diminished with ten years on the clock, though the prices generally reflect "more desirable." A good price is a good price, no matter what year you get.
All
Thank you for some great tips/reminders. I will check out the links tonight and continue the search.
I am more motivated today- on the way to work this morning I was clipped as a car tried to change lanes just as I was passing. They failed to look. Minor damage to my Honda beater, but it increased my desire to move on.
Thanks again!
Typed with my thumbs on my iPhone using NAMotoring
Thank you for some great tips/reminders. I will check out the links tonight and continue the search.
I am more motivated today- on the way to work this morning I was clipped as a car tried to change lanes just as I was passing. They failed to look. Minor damage to my Honda beater, but it increased my desire to move on.
Thanks again!
Typed with my thumbs on my iPhone using NAMotoring
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