Okay, so I've read through all the posts I can find on this topic & am still running into the same issue. a couple weeks ago, my rear hatch stopped opening. So, I pulled the handle assembly & interior hatch panel, finding that the small plug for the switch was corroded. Today, I cleaned it thoroughly with De Oxit & replaced the foam gasket with a new one for the handle assembly.

Unfortunately, the issue remains. What I've noticed, however, is that I don't actually hear the rear hatch unlocking when I try to unlock it remotely. Therefore, I don't believe the issue is with the hatch handle, I believe it is with the unlock solenoid. I did check the electrical plug for the latch itself & it is not corroded at all. Is there a fuse somewhere for this one latch? Is there a way to disassemble & service the latch itself?

 

The latch is a replacement item , sounds like it failed: 51242754528


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51242754528/




more info here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html




Also on the rear trunk grip make sure you replaced the lens or at least inspect them so they dont let moisture in and corrode the handle.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ght-cover.html





Thanks and good luck, if you need anymore parts:


www.ecstuning.com

Thanks

 

So I just went & listened for an audible lock / unlock sound from our other R53's hatch that is working perfectly & it doesn't make any noise either. Rather than throwing parts at it since I still don't really know if it's the latch, switch or power supply, how could I use a multimeter to test power / switch functionality, etc?

 

You will have to see if that latch is plugged in and working. You will have to get under the plastic cover in the trunk to test it, which the trunk is closed. That sill cover clips into load edge and is a bit of work to get under while the trunk is closed.

Did you swap handles from the other R53 to test the latch ?

Thanks

 

Try taking a look at these threads and see if they might give you some good information.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...h-problem.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...elf-fixed.html

-Luccia

 

Thanks for all the help so far but I'm afraid I'm still stuck :-/ As I stated, we have a second R53 with a perfectly working rear hatch. This evening, I pulled both the latch and handle off of it & tried it on my car. The problem continued..... I also installed my latch into the other car & it worked without issue. My only thought at this point is that the connector that the handle plugs into has corroded so badly inside that two of the 3 wires have shorted together. However, if this were true it seems that a fuse would have blown & none have. Does anyone know the pin-out for that connector? I will have time tomorrow to test it with a volt meter & see what I get.

Edit: I should add, my license plate lights are working perfectly, so power & ground are passing through the plug. Maybe there's just significant corrosion on the third wire that's coming off the small switch? Anyone know if that functions as an intermittent 12v or intermittent ground? Other than that, the only remaining option is that the latch is not receiving 12v. If this is the case I guess I'll just start tracing wires from the plug?

 

Yes, sounds like the harness, if you tested the electrical latch and handle both. The pinout is linked and shown in this thread : But there was no diagram.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...elf-fixed.html

What you are going to have to do is pull that harness and check all the connections. Sometimes a fuse will not blow if there is an incomplete circuit. I believe a break in the harness or a damaged pin. There is not too many wires on it so, you could dig in and find it.

Good luck and hope you can find that break.

Good luck.

 

I've run into this before.

Have you tried the manual release? It's located underneath the backseat. See if that opens it. Then, try opening/closing/locking it.

Honestly, I had the exact same problem with the hatch handle. Tried to clean it like you did. It didn't work. I eventually replaced the hatch handle completely. Started working no problem. I think instead of replacing the corroded harness, we wired it up ourselves and closed it up with electrical tape.

Good luck!

 

Just wanted to update everyone on this - I FIXED IT!! After testing voltage / ground at the plugs & finding that one of the handle wires was not doing anything, I started tracing the path of that wire through the car. Luckily, I didn't have to go very far, as I found this when I pulled the rubber loom in the hatch jam:



And then the butt connector...



Notice all the other wires with cracked insulation! I made sure to slather a bunch of liquid tape on there before putting it all back together. I also fully plan on pulling it back apart & fixing the break for real with solder & heat shrink.

One interesting thing to note, the handle actually didn't start working right away after re-connecting. It was intermittent for a bit, then got more consistent after a few minutes, as if a totally dead capacitor had to re-charge. Also, the 3 wires going to the latch measure 12v, 7v, ground. The 7v wire was the broken one in my case. It seems like it was wrapped very awkwardly around the rest of the wiring going into the rubber loom right at the point where it has to bend when the hatch is raised, putting extra strain on that one wire. This also all happened after installing new, stronger hatch support struts that actually open the hatch all the way, so I'm sure that contributed to it!

 

Thanks for the update , glad you were able to track it down. Was guessing the harness itself.