Can anyone advise me on the mechanics of the hatchback latch or how to fix one that is not functioning?

I can open it by way of the emergency pull under the back seat; but the latch does not work when I press it in.

Thank You,
Michael

 

You may be interested in this thread...

Mine was doing the opposite - opening when I didn't want it to. The thread shows the mechanics. You're pushing a momentary-contact switch when you open the hatch from the outside, perhaps the wiring or switch is messed up. Moisture can (and does) get back in there.

Check also fuses and such, but the cause of a blown fuse in that area may be corrosion in the switch. Pretty easy repair - you'll need Torx drivers to remove the switch (Ace Hardware, Lowes, Home Depot, even Ikea, coupla bucks).

Good luck!

 

This is extremely helpful. I had just washed the car when this happened; just as you mentioned about moisture being a problem.

I'll try your suggestions and use that other thread for reference.

Thanks,
Michael

 

Glad I could help. Also note - after washing or rain, when you open the hatch you'll get water dripping out of the bootlid/latch area. I try to drain mine when I can, but when it rains it's tough to remember. Crossing my fingers here, but I haven't had a latch problem since replacing mine and waterproofing the switch.

 

It might also be an issue with the solenoid that operates the latch mechanism in the bumper. Mine was messed up for awhile and buzzed when opened until it finally would not close at all - I went about a week with bungee cords holding the door closed from the inside. I had to replace the latch mechanism.

 

I am willing to bet all the money in the world that the handle is leaking, same issue I had, just remove the handle by removing the 4 torx head screws. Then detach the wiring harness clip to it, make sure to not let it pull back into the door when you remove it. Then take the handle assembly inside and dry it next to a space heater. When it drys out, smear the black foam gasket material with Dielectric Lithium Grease and reinstall, it will be good as new.

 

Thank You both. If the damp wiring is not the problem and it kind of makes sense it is at this point with when it occurred, I'll check out the solenoid solution.

I wash this car quite often, I guess it finally got wet enough !!!

Best Regards,
Michael

 

I have the same intermittent problem with my '05 MCS, which unfortunately started happening right after the warranty ran out. I did get an error code (one time occurrence) of something that was related to the rear hatch, so I might still try to get it covered under warranty since I gave the dealer the list of codes that were run (by an independent MINI shop) right before bringing it in for my final warranty service.

In addition to this issue, one of the plastic license plate light covers fell off a couple of weeks ago. Any idea if I can order this part on it's own? I think I read somewhere that I need to buy the entire handle assembly, but that seems excessive.

Matt
'05 MCS, EB/W/W
Saint Paul, MN

 

Well it was definitely an issue with a damp switch. Dried it out and it is fine now. I will however still make sure it is totally water proof.

Matt, for your situation, you probably need to get that part from the dealer. Hopefully not the entire assembly. PittStopMini probably knows better than me. See his info above.

Thanks again everyone
Michael

 

I don't know if you can get the switch itself, but it's a Really Small Part (See my "boonk" thread, linked above, for pics). I think Mini only carries the whole assembly. May make sense to get an operating part from a salvage yard, or check the part number of the switch and try to find it on www.

Note that the Liquid Electrical Tape (LET) works great, but stinks to high heaven. Use it outside and let it completely dry before reinstalling! Sorry some of the pics were blurry, it's pretty obvious once it's taken apart what I did with the plastic film and LET. Waterproofing the switch may be excessive, as I think it's the plug or harness that lets the water in, but I wasn't taking any chances.

Good luck!

 

Where is the mechanism, is the dealer the only source for the part, and what's involved in replacing it?

 

Over the rear license plate, yes (or salvage yard), common sense with torx screws (or refer to Bentley manual)

 

I'm thinking that button is not the problem. The tailgate does not open with either the outside button or the remote button on the key. That's why I'm thinking the latch mechanism that someone said is behind the bumper might be the real problem.

 

So do some troubleshooting! The "popper" is electrical, and is located in the rear valence. You've proven that the latch mechanism works by releasing it manually using the cable under the seat, so the problem isn't the mechanical latch, but the electrical actuator not working.

Other contributing factors: The hatch will leak (known issue).

So... trace the power, find the problem, protect against future issues (water). Best way to do that is to start at the power source, though you can start at the latch and see if it's getting current and if the electrical popper is actuating and trace your way back to the battery - but given the known moisture problem in the hatch, I'd start there (I start from where I "know" there's power and work outward).

Follow the power from battery to latch - use a voltmeter and check:
- the fuse or power itself to the hatch handle/switch (if not the fuse, is the car unlocked? Is the body computer that does the unlocking allowing power to the switch in the hatch?)
- Check the button and the connector between button and wiring from hatch. The connector is a known problem - gets wet and corrodes, then shorts and either doesn't open, or opens when you don't want it to. Remove the license plate upper section (4 torx) and verify that the connector is connected and not wet or corroded. Fix as necessary, make sure it's dry, then tape that sucker up good with scotch 33+ electrical tape (the only kind that works), then throw a ziptie over that tape so it doesn't unravel.

- Check the wiring between the hatch and release mechanism, can come unplugged at the release mechanism (remove plastic rear valence cover by removing 2 fasteners in the back of the boot, tilt front end upward and the top fasteners will pop upward). The wiring comes in from the passenger side, it's possible someone put something heavy there and severed a wire or popped a connection.

- Check the release mechanism's electrics.. Run a circuit tester there to make sure you've got power.

That's about everything I know...