R50/53 Midland Rebuild Documentation
Midland Rebuild Documentation
HI all,
Sorry to bother, did an extensive search , and can't find info I need.
I am going to attempt a rebuild of my Midlands 5sp box, and would like to get some documentation on the disassembly/assembly sequence, along with torque values, setting diff backlash, etc.
Unfortunately the Bentley manual has nothing.
If anyone can help, I would truly appreciate it.
Regards
Jeff
02 'Justa'
Sorry to bother, did an extensive search , and can't find info I need.
I am going to attempt a rebuild of my Midlands 5sp box, and would like to get some documentation on the disassembly/assembly sequence, along with torque values, setting diff backlash, etc.
Unfortunately the Bentley manual has nothing.
If anyone can help, I would truly appreciate it.
Regards
Jeff
02 'Justa'
I believe this is the same as the MINI Midlands R65 gearbox (pdf file download):
(searched for R65 Gearbox Overhaul Manual)
I couldn't upload the file as an attachment here directly for some reason.
http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/inde...verhaul-manual
(searched for R65 Gearbox Overhaul Manual)
I couldn't upload the file as an attachment here directly for some reason.
http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/inde...verhaul-manual
We have most of the midland parts listed, it mostly the only transmission from MINI that has most of the internal transmission parts in the catalog.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-Cooper-R50-Base-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W10B16A/Drivetrain/Manual_Transmission/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-Cooper-R50-Base-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W10B16A/Drivetrain/Manual_Transmission/
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You should post up a DIY once you get this going to help other folks out! 
-Luccia

-Luccia
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This one might be a little more exact
| http://fpvlab.com/banners/midland-gearbox-manual-2.pdf
| http://fpvlab.com/banners/midland-gearbox-manual-2.pdf
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Teardown
Alrighty,
So will try to document this as best I can, not a very good story teller.
I removed the box per the Bently manual, no surprises, just follow the steps outlined. I did not try any time saving work arounds, just as the manual describes.
Started the box teardown per the Midlands manual supplied by Cristo.
Pics are attached, I tried to take one for each step.
When removing the fifth gear, you do not need the special tool indicated in the manual. I used a two leg gear puller with one of the legs ground down where it slips under the gear to provide enough clearance to get a good grip on the underside of the gear, came straight off, no issues.
I got as far as pulling the gear clusters, will continue tonight.
Quick inspection shows no gear damage, nor any to the cases. So far so good.
Regards
Jeff
So will try to document this as best I can, not a very good story teller.
I removed the box per the Bently manual, no surprises, just follow the steps outlined. I did not try any time saving work arounds, just as the manual describes.
Started the box teardown per the Midlands manual supplied by Cristo.
Pics are attached, I tried to take one for each step.
When removing the fifth gear, you do not need the special tool indicated in the manual. I used a two leg gear puller with one of the legs ground down where it slips under the gear to provide enough clearance to get a good grip on the underside of the gear, came straight off, no issues.
I got as far as pulling the gear clusters, will continue tonight.
Quick inspection shows no gear damage, nor any to the cases. So far so good.
Regards
Jeff
Midlands is the one transmission you can get factory internal parts for. Look whats behind it. 

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And here with the ECS Tuning Box. 

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This midland rebuild just became even more interesting.
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Progress
Hi all,
Just an update. Fortunately I have a day job, so this is my after family duties hobby, just don't get much time at once to make a lot of progress.
Tonight I want to get the old bearings off the input/output shafts, and get the new ones on. So far everything has been straight out of the repair manual for disassembly, no issues/special tools needed. My only recommendation so far is to for sure use an impact gun for removing fasteners, much easier.
The bell housing is soaking in the parts cleaner, will finish cleaning up, and make sure I can remove the throw out bearing lever, I have seen others have a tough time with that pin that retains the lever to the shaft.
I am thinking to use the hydraulic press on it, rather than pound it out.
Off topic, if anyone has a set of OEM front springs for an R50 manufactured after 03/2002, I am interested, I need them for the Koni FSD I am putting on.
Thanks
Jeff
Just an update. Fortunately I have a day job, so this is my after family duties hobby, just don't get much time at once to make a lot of progress.
Tonight I want to get the old bearings off the input/output shafts, and get the new ones on. So far everything has been straight out of the repair manual for disassembly, no issues/special tools needed. My only recommendation so far is to for sure use an impact gun for removing fasteners, much easier.
The bell housing is soaking in the parts cleaner, will finish cleaning up, and make sure I can remove the throw out bearing lever, I have seen others have a tough time with that pin that retains the lever to the shaft.
I am thinking to use the hydraulic press on it, rather than pound it out.
Off topic, if anyone has a set of OEM front springs for an R50 manufactured after 03/2002, I am interested, I need them for the Koni FSD I am putting on.
Thanks
Jeff
Thanks for the update and thanks for the purchases.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

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Weekend Progress
HI All,
Got to put a few hours into the Midlands rebuild.
Just a couple of thoughts.
The removal of the throw out bearing lever, don't try to pound it out, it is a swaged solid pin, I ended up drilling it out.
Also to remove the segment clips, make a tool that has the same thickness as the clips, they just tap out with it.
Both input/output shafts are rebuilt, ready to start final reassembly.
Let me know if any questions.
Regards
Jeff
Got to put a few hours into the Midlands rebuild.
Just a couple of thoughts.
The removal of the throw out bearing lever, don't try to pound it out, it is a swaged solid pin, I ended up drilling it out.
Also to remove the segment clips, make a tool that has the same thickness as the clips, they just tap out with it.
Both input/output shafts are rebuilt, ready to start final reassembly.
Let me know if any questions.
Regards
Jeff
Finished!
All done,
Now to get it back in and see how it is.
Thanks again Cristo for the manual.
Recommend bolting the bell housing to a table when reassembling, makes torqueing the fasteners much easier.
Regards
Jeff
Now to get it back in and see how it is.
Thanks again Cristo for the manual.
Recommend bolting the bell housing to a table when reassembling, makes torqueing the fasteners much easier.
Regards
Jeff
Wilkrod, thanks for this thread, very informative with the images. Much appreciated for when I finally need to rebuild my transmission. In regards to the swage pin on the throwout bearing lever, did you find it easy to obtain a replacement.
rgds Jeff
rgds Jeff
All,
With regards to the drilling out the throw out bearing lever retaining pin, once drilled out, I replaced with a 5/16, Grade 8 bolt, with a nyloc nut.
Should be fine, if not, Plan B( whatever that may be)
Regards
Jeff
With regards to the drilling out the throw out bearing lever retaining pin, once drilled out, I replaced with a 5/16, Grade 8 bolt, with a nyloc nut.
Should be fine, if not, Plan B( whatever that may be)
Regards
Jeff
Reason for Rebuild
Hi all,
Well I bought the car in Feb of this year, Florida car two owner, 90K miles, BRG/Tan, Sunroof, perfect body/interior, everything works, good price.
Did complete service, while changing trans fluid, drain/fill plug covered with about an inch of metal particles. Drove the car about 1000 miles, no issues, but decided it needed a new clutch, hi pedal, slight slipping in 2nd gear, also could hear noise from trans that to me sounded like a bearing going south.
So since I needed to drop the trans anyway for the clutch , decided to open it up, and sure enough the input shaft bearing was toast, along with the diff bearings. Good news was no other damage at all, synchros looked like new, etc.
Thats it.
Regards
Jeff
Well I bought the car in Feb of this year, Florida car two owner, 90K miles, BRG/Tan, Sunroof, perfect body/interior, everything works, good price.
Did complete service, while changing trans fluid, drain/fill plug covered with about an inch of metal particles. Drove the car about 1000 miles, no issues, but decided it needed a new clutch, hi pedal, slight slipping in 2nd gear, also could hear noise from trans that to me sounded like a bearing going south.
So since I needed to drop the trans anyway for the clutch , decided to open it up, and sure enough the input shaft bearing was toast, along with the diff bearings. Good news was no other damage at all, synchros looked like new, etc.
Thats it.
Regards
Jeff







