Just curious what I should expect to find, and what are good points to listen/look for in terms of potential problems.
I am located in the SoCal area, but sadly within my price range they all seem to be 100-150k miles, which I am a bit skeptical not knowing how those miles were driven; so I will hopefully do a full tuneup, fluid flush, etc. as soon as I can afford to.

I know my way around german cars for the most part (did everything from Lower control arms and struts to timing belt on my Jetta), so I am fairly confident going in that the Mini shouldn't give me too much trouble, should I need to replace anything.

In regards to buying one used though, I know I will want to look for the obvious signs you look for with most cars; fluid levels/color/consistency, shifting issues, leaks, etc. but is there anything Mini specific I should keep a keen eye out for?

http://www.motoringfile.com/mini-r50r53-buyers-guide/. and http://www.motoringfile.com/2014/12/...he-right-mini/

The buyers guide buzzsaw linked above is a great resource.

A 100k mile r53 will likely have failed or failing lower control arm bushings unless they have been replaced. Do the "kick test" on the front tires to confirm.

On the later r53, the harmonic balancer is prone to failure. It's a relatively easy replacement, but count on about a $400 expense unless it's already been done. If not, you are likely on borrowed time. Aftermarket offers a better alternative here.

It's been my experience owning three modern MINIs (manuals) that the rear brakes go first...so don't check front pads and assume the rears are good too.

Happy shopping!

Check these wear items & corresponding remedies/upgrades:
Control Arm bushes: Replace w/ Powerflex

Harmonic Damper: Go ATI Super Damper

1st stage cooling fan: Bypass the 1st stage or install an external resistor

Supercharger-waterpump drive gears: Swap new charger/waterpump or go electric waterpump w/o changing SC

PS Pump, hoses & fan: Check if your VIN is covered under warranty. Or go $50 Condor Power Steering Delete.

Coolant Expansion Tank: Go Canton or RMW, nothing less.

Leak-prone seals: Crank Position Sensor, Oil Pan gasket, Waterpump O-rings & T-stat, PS hose clamps, Heat exchanger seals

Upper passenger side engine mount: Go VibraTechnics

Strut mounts & mushrooming: Go Adjustable Camber plates (ie Vorshlag, SPC, RTM) + VIP or Cravenspeed strut plates

Belt Tensioner: Go $80 Gates...Same as OEM

Follow these, your R53 will enjoy a long life of fun motoring. All these are DIYable, no room for fear. MINI forums like this 1 are a wealthy resource of info & good Samaritans.

Warning: Modding is extremely addicting. Proceed w/ much vigilance & caution. I've given all the resistance, but like all, I failed

Fastlane, are you using the handbrake to slow down around town in order to wear out the rear pads 1st??? I have only heard of 1 person to wear out the rear first and he was a retired trucker and did the hand brake thing...

No, it's common on these cars for the rears to go first. I was told it was in the design, creates more even braking or something. Both my minis (03 and 05) always go through the back brakes first.
Nik

No. Handbrake used for parking only.

My r50, r56, and now r52 have all been the same....rears have worn first. Two of my coworkers with MINIs....same thing. I did brakes for a lady I know last summer on her 09 and her fronts went first....it was an automatic, while all others I have done have been manuals.

I suspect it has to do with the handbrake adjuster mechanism and is more common than you think.

Brake pads.....stay away from EBC til they've addressed delamination. Mine did:

I would also try your best to get a feel for the clutch. You may want to get it on the highway in 5th or 6th gear and really jump on the throttle. If you seem like the engine revs excessively before settling in then it is a pretty good chance the clutch will need replacing. Expensive repair.

I just bought another 05 after selling mine a couple of years ago.
Its getting there now, but not before a mass of problems...


Main seal blew... needed new clutch and trans.
Very expensive!!!


Changed clutch master and slave unit as its recommended.


Changed water pump at the same time as that was leaking.


Pretty much all the rubber underneath, front and back had corroded, so meant new pieces all round, including toe rod ends etc.


Front rotors and pads.


Both Daytime Running bulbs had blown, along with tag lights... switched to LEDs.


The good news is she drives like a new car now!
Good job I picked this up for only $4k with 98k miles!!


New rims etc and I'm loving it again ..

EBC actually has a new process of bonding the pads to the backing plates. The new EBC backing plates have the little tangs all over them and the pad material is heat bonded so they are double attached now.