So I am going to change my oil, oil filter, air filter, and cabin filter before mass winter comes and I don't know how truthful the previous owner was... I need help what oil do I use? I cannot find much on it. People "recommend" 0W-40 high performance, or 5W-40 synthetic. Ok... Help please. I have about 131 on the mileage, with MSD plugs and coils and Alta 15% reduction.

 

I Use N' My Mini R53 04 Mobil 1 0-40

 

Euro mobil1 0w-40 meets mini spec...cannot go wrong it is one of the few "mass market oils" that meet mini specs...
I use it, but sometimes I use regular Mobil 1 5w-30 or the extended life version (has more zinc)...
I do about 7500 oil changes max with any of them...
Reality is most any "quality" syenthic oil is fine for the length oil changes most folks use.....
Just make sure it meets the MINI/BMW spec IF you plan to go the 15,000 mile oil change....

 

i got this one Motul 300V 5W30 Synthetic Power Racing Oil, i hope that is good

 

I've been running Mobil1 5w30 Fully Synthetic Extended Life oil ever since I've had my MINI....and I change it every 7000 miles. No issues as of yet.

 

STRONGLY recommend OP do some reading and use of SEARCH for often discussed 'lessons learned' by folks doing their first GEN1 oil change besides what oil to buy ... including:


1. Stuck oil drain plug .. short answer a) a 1/2 inch sockets fits better than the metric size which is 'correct' and once off b) replace with a Fumoto valve


2. Difficulty getting the canister back on ... short answer it gets easier with practice. I find press down firmly while tightening helps a lot


3. What oil filter ... many will use nothing but OE and I'm one... MANN is OK ... watch out for others ....


lot's of threads on each of these topics . . .

 

I use 0w-40 all year, better than 5-30, mobile 1


its on the recommended list, how could you go wrong? plus its super cheap at walmart for whatever reason

 

1000% fumoto valve. I had to drill out my dealer installed drain plug. And it makes those 3k mile oil changes take minutes. Oil is cheap, your motor isn't.

To tighten up the drain plug, snug it up with your fingers then put your wrench on it and give a little tug using your pinky. It comes out with less fuss next time.

One trick for the canister is to slowly spin it backwards (left/counterclockwise) until you feel it drop into the threads. Then tighten. It's tricky when doing the oil change hot like I do.

Another thing to add, do your oil change hot, or warm at least, that way any particles should be suspended and come out. No the filter doesn't get EVERYTHING but it gets a lot.

 

Can you explain why 0w-40 is "better" than 5w-30?

 

Freezing point is why I chose 0w-40.

 

Freezing point? Can you please explain?

All the charts I've seen say that 5w-30 is good down to -20 degrees or so. 0w-40 goes down a little colder. Do you live in Alaska?

 

Old thread I know but I just spent a LONG time this morning playing around with an OE filter. That damn thing does not work. I had two new ones and honestly I have no idea how I put the old OE one on myself. It is a bear to make the housing fit with that filter. I got a fram one and it fit perfectly with no problems.

 

I've been changning my oil for 7 years and still struggle getting th e filter housing back on the car. I spennt 10 minutes a couple of weeks ago and thats after almost 20 changes. But I'd never use anythig other than OEM. I'm not a paitient man, but I'll be paiteint for that.

 

Two things from a math wiz:
1) Make sure the new filter is fully and properly seated in the cap
2) Ensure the cap o-ring is well-lubed prior to setting in place. I used a thin film of bearing lube
3) Push down while wiggling the cap to ensure it is inserted as far as it can go prior to beginning screwing the cap on
4) When seated, screw cap on as far as you can, then torque to 18ft/lbs.

Here's a nice tutorial - http://bobo5.com/wp-content/uploads/...rections_2.pdf

Oh! And I do live in Alaska. Royal Purple HPS 5W30 is my oil of choice. Amazon is the best place to get it.