Has anybody use this tool to remove and install new lower control arm bushing ?i bought it to do my r50 bushing but I just can't see how it removes it from the housing

 

Just bought one and need to make time to use it so I'm curious, too.

 

Did you get the two black and white blurred pictures for instruction ? I figured the amount of money I spent I should of atleast got decent how to instructions.

 

 

That is the tool for installing and removing the arm from the bushing. You will need the tool for pressing the bushing and out of the housing if doing just the bushing and not the bushing with the bracket.

 

Great so it's basically a useless tool.

 

Here's what the press looks like:

 

It's not exactly useless, it just has a different use than what you may want it for:

 

Does this tool (KT20339) really work to remove the LCA bracket/bushing assy without dropping the subframe from the car. For example, can I purchase a LCA bracket with the bushing already pressed into the bracket, from WMW, and use this tool to remove the bracket+bushing from the control arm without lowering the whole subframe?

 

No KT20339 is to remove and insert the arm into the bushing. You need KT20335 to remove the bushing from the bracket with the bracket still mounted in the car. You would order just the bushing and press it into the bracket you left in the car.

 

Thank you for the clarification.

 

I actually own all these tools and they really aren't needed.

To pull the bushing off the control arm we just use 2 pry bars, or for hard ones we put a cheapo 3 jaw puller on the bushing and it comes off in seconds.
Then to get the bushings out of the brackets we just put them in a press and push them out with a set of cups.
Save your money on the tools.

 

Oh boy. I think you're leaving out an important piece of info. You have a lift. And it's only a guess, but I'm guessing, the OP will have his car on jack stands. How easy is your method with the car 18" off the ground? Both remove and install back to torque specs (without air tools). Again, keep in mind that the OP asked a question about the aforementioned tool.

@OP - Which bushings did you get? If you're replacing with polyurethane, apparently you can get them back on the arms without a press (I didn't replace mine with polyurethane). If you have OEM rubber, you will never be able to get them on the arms without a press.
So you can use the tool you bought to remove and press the bushing on the control arm. You just need to buy the brackets with the bushings already pressed.

 

They are oem bushings . And deffinately doing it on jAck stands . I have to hold off one more week and do it next weekend now

 

I have done it on the ground using hand tools with my method. It is a pain the the butt, but can be done. But everything is harder on the ground without a lift. On the lift we also use hand tools to get the bolts out as there is not enough room to get air tools in to take the 18mm bolts out.

I would tell you to not bother putting the OEM bushings back in. We've found these typically wear out very quickly. You're going to find this job to be a big pain and not want to do it again. So go with the powerflex bushings as you will never have to replace them again. Also they are much easier to just slide back on the control arm when you reinstall them so they will be easier to install too. No downside to the powerflex.

 

If it wasn't a 2006 r50 then yeah I would go for aftermarket. It's just a grocery getter . It's a fun little ride but not winning any races lol. Next spring my GP 2 will get new bushing that will be aftermarket of course

 

8 hrs and total fail. It took forever to get the bushing / sleeve out. There is no way I'm getting the oem ones back in . Not unless I take the housing out and use a press to get them in. Are the power flex easier to install over the oem bushing and sleeve ? I can believe I can't get the bushings back in . Driving me crazy

 

If you can remove the bracket from the car, you can take the brackets and bushings to an auto shop and have them press them in with their press. Probably cost you $20-$40. Then attach the bracket back onto the car and use the tool you have to press the control arm into the bushings. When you're pressing the control arm back into the bracket, take note that there is a gap between the control arm "ridge" and the bracket (it doesn't press all the way flush against that ridge).
The power flex bushings will be easier to slide the control arms into, but you have the tool to do that.
How was it using the tool to remove the control arm from the bushing?

 

For others that have not already purchased bushings, the easiest way to go is to purchase the bushings already pressed into the bracket from a place such as waymotorworks.com.

 

I learned that today. Just a lesson learned . As for the tool it actually was the easiest part of the job. I tried prying it to see but the tool took it right out. Now I just got to wait for the powerflex bushings to come in on Tuesday. That's makes my gp2 a daily driver for a couple of days . So waiting isnt that bad hahahaha

 

I put in the power bushings yesterday. It was a piece of cake. They went right in . No problems. I could of pried the arm out of bushing but I used the the tool . I had so why not and it actually saved some labor intense time . Pulled them right out . I used the sawzal method to get the bushing sleeve out. I tried other methods on the first side but once I gave up and cut it it made the other side so much faster with less aggravation . Getting my ball joints off that was a different story. The bushing were easier to get out then the ball joint lol. It's an 06 so I expected that

 

I replaced the inner and outer ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rod ends, strut links and struts a few months ago on our 2002. Not a single nut would come off so I had use a sawzall to remove all of the ball joints and tie rod ends. I replaced the control arm bushing with the Powerflex bushings as I did not want to drop the sub frame. I made my own tool for pressing in the outer Powerflex bushing with large washers and a threaded rod. You will never get OEM bushings in without removing the bracket which requires dropping the sub frame. That is a great reason to use powerflex bushings. They are 3 pieces which aids in the installation.

 

I just replaced the control arm bushings with brackets in my 02 Justa. Getting to the bolts for the brackets was the biggest PITA. All the bolts were rusted in and took Hulk strength for each 1/5th of a turn that I was able to do since I had very little space to maneuver in. Same thing with the inner ball joint bolts. 8 hours later when I got this all off, I realized I am going to need a press to get the new bushings on. Finding a shop with a press is like finding a unicorn around here in NC. Finally I found one in Durham and they put them on. When putting all the bolts back in, I lubed up every one of them and it helped a lot in torqueing them down.


I could drop an engine out of the car with the transmission faster than I was able to do this. Not looking forward to ever doing this again.

 

Regarding the "bolts for the brackets" - are you talking about the control arm bracket #7 on this image?



Did you drop the subframe to take off (and reinstall) the brackets?
If you did - DAYMN! That sucks.


If you did not - how did you properly torque the bolts? There's like zero room to swing a torque wrench.


I'm assuming by the way you worded your post that you didn't drop the subframe. Others have mentioned to just "suck it up" and take the hour + to drop the subframe and I think your experience may have proven that it takes less time to drop it than to fiddle/deal with the problems of a confined area.

It also goes to show that using the BMW tools (while freaking expensive) can save a lot of time and headache. I guess it comes down to how much you value your time and suffering.

 

Oh and I hear that PB Blastering your suspension bolts/connections a week ahead, and daily for 3 days before can help a lot - assuming you have the time to do that.