Had the stock damper disintegrate on me so bought the ATI to replace it. However, I can't seem to get it seated. Heated it up in oven on 250 for 10 min. When that wouldn't work I put it back in oven on 250 for another 20 min. It slipped on maybe a few millimeters but now it's seized on and won't budge any more. I followed ATIs instructions which make it seem like the damper should just be pulled in quite easily when heated, but that bolt doesn't want to "pull" the damper at all. Even with an impact gun. I'd like to use the puller to remove the damper and start over, but ATI doesn't tell you how to remove it (not the same 3x M6 holes as stock). So anyone know how to remove an ATI damper and how I should go about getting it seated?

 

Here are the instructions:

http://www.atiracing.com/instruction...per-Damper.pdf

If it doesn't go on by hand, don't use powertools.

To get the pulley off you'll need a crowfoot puller, and the special stud that threads into the crank so you have something to run the puller in on.

Once it's off, you'll want to make sure the end of the crank isn't burred as well as the inside bore of the crank pulley.

Again, if it doesn't go with hand tools don't use air/electric.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

To remove the ATI damper you need to first remove three of the bolts on the face of the damper and use the threaded holes as anchor points for the threaded studs of a puller. Make sure the business end of the puller doesn't gnarley up the end of the crank. Use a puller with a flat rotating end on the jack screw or, as nkfry suggest, thread a sacrificial bolt into the end of the crank to protect it.

As to why you can't get her on, I'm stumped. I installed an ATI damper on my engine last year and it didn't give me any trouble. I put a light coat of antiseize on the crank before hand only because I didn't like the that the keyway on the pulley would let dirt/water come into contact with the critical surface of the crank.

What worked for me:
Pushed the ATI damper on as far as I could by hand.
Screwed a threaded rod into the end of the crank until it bottomed out.
Installed two washers and a nut on the threaded rod and snugged them against the pulley.
Installed two nuts on the end of the threaded rod and jammed them tight against each other.
Held the jammed nuts with one wrench and turned the first nut with a wrench until the pulley bottomed out on the crank.
Removed threaded rod and installed/torqued crank bolt to spec.

This worked like a charm.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I've got it on now. Didn't want to go in any by hand but this time it went on smooth with a ratchet.

 

Make sure you use Loc-Tite red on the crank bolt and torque it to 88 ft lbs, once everything is assembled mark the bolts with paint marker, it helps to diagnose possible issues down the road.

Nick
Detroit Tuned