I have a 2003 Mini cooper Base model with 140K miles and clutch just went out. After reading i have a couple questions im getting mixed anserws on.

First question, is this a solid flywheel or dualmass flywheel? If it is a solid flywheel do i need to have it resurfaced or replaced? (bought used no idea on past work done)

Second question what clutch kit do you recommend? Any kits that include the flywheel?

I will be doing this work myself as well as lower control arm bushings since mine are shot also.

 

OEM = Dual Mass Flywheel. And no, considering the thickness of the wheel and length of time to replace, better off replacing with new.

As far as a hi-per clutch kit goes...Depends if you have mods to the powertrain to warrant one....and how much you want to spend. Driven my friends R56S modded up with an OS Giken "Touring" Clutch....in a word, Spectacular ! But he has the mods to warrant one too.

At 140K miles, one has to consider the car as a whole, other wearable/worn parts in the equation and what plans there are in the future for other mods/maintenance issues about to crop up. The OEM one lasted you 140K and it's plenty strong enough to handle what most of us will get out of this engine.

There's a more affordable Valeo single mass flywheel gaining ground in popularity with R53 owners....$450.00 for the entire kit.

Kit Includes
1 single mass flywheel
1 sprung hub clutch
1 throwout bearing
1 set of flywheel bolts

It's 2lbs lighter than stock.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/valeo-c...l-kit-r53.html




While in there also replace the following.....especially since you seem like an owner who plans on keeping your MINI for long time. (140K miles )

#1,5,6 and rear main seal if bad. 5 and 6 are made of plastic and wear out. Often times #1 guide tube has been scorn with wear marks, and not the sort of parts you want to be looking for on a Sunday afternoon while in there.


Transmission fluid is MTF LT-3. Takes appx 1.7 litres.

 

Mine is a base model r50 not an S. I'm under the impression that only the S came with the dual mass? Also the Valero kit with flywheel is only for the S correct?

 

Yeah just the S has the DMF.

This may be a Valeo... http://www.waymotorworks.com/flywhee...per-non-s.html

A light weight one here but have no feed back on it, sorry. http://www.waymotorworks.com/fidanza...52-cooper.html

And the clutch fork on the R50 is a PITA to remove since the securing pin is on the outside of the casing and usually pretty rusty making it almost impossible to replace the white plastic bushings (5/6)....but definitely get the guide tube. Takes MTF-94 Trans fluid.

 

Thank you for the info, since my throw out bearing only went bad and never had slipping do you think the flywheel needs to be replaced?

 

Suggestion...since the cost of the clutch is 75+% labor, just have it all done (either a new flywheel or resurfacing of a solid one)....
Even s clutch that does not/has not slipped, can leave hotspots on the flywheel due to surface imperfections, imperfect balance, etc....you don't want to redo a clutch in a short time due to a shortcut.
One more suggestion....
Ask around... Prices vary LOTS... And some folks can sometimes do a r50 cluch much cheaper time wise since there is a bit more space to work...and (I've seen it done) it can sometimes be done in place if a car "corporates".... Saving several hours...not many guys can do it...but if the shop has done a bunch of mini's....they might know the trick....
In either case, the OEM clutch has served you well...I would go with the same/equivalent product.

 

One tip...
If you it at the same time as lower control arm bushings... You might need to press them yourself...a pain...but there can be a wait to get them prepressed with the arms as an exchange unit...so if you do order them this way...ASK about shipping delays....
Noticed you will diy it...and do bushings....so you will be dropping it...suggest you get a good shop book...the "bently" at about $100 is not the cheapest, but well liked.

 

Flywheel on my MCS at 130K was aok, like you T-O bearing was on way out.

...what Zippy said, do the flywheel anyways.

If you purchase OEM replacement front control arm bushings, they come pressed in new brackets already. Simple bolt up only required. Would do front sway bar bushings too, but upgrade those to poly. ( Powerflex purple or black )

 

Replace it with the factory MINI clutch kit as it is the most reliable.

If you want to make it rev faster you can install the Fidanza lightweight flywheel.

Often we see the clutch fork bent so it is a good idea to go ahead and replace it, we have a kit for it.

I keep them all in stock if you need any.

 

Just did two of these (both of our R50's clutches went out within 24 hours of each other!) and here's some tips:

Both of our throwout bearings grenaded. Flywheels were in great shape, one driven disc had only about 20k on it, the other one was just about worn out. The throwout bearings are the weak spot on the R50 clutch. DO replace that guide tube (#1 on the drawing). An exploding throwout bearing will damage it or if it was dragging on the guide tube it will be scored. Our fork and associated parts were still good so we did not replace anything, like #5 or #6 so I can't speak to that.

Our local club has a top notch shade tree mechanic. He posts youtube videos under the "Mod MINI" channel. Search for the "DIY Auto Repair Playlist" and look for the 2002-2006 clutch repair videos. My car is the BRG and my wife's car is the Silk Green one. I'm not just trying to show off my car, Kurt does really good work and wears a Go-Pro on his head, which leaves his hands free to work and show you what he's doing.

Hope this helps-

Val

 

[QUOTE=" Often we see the clutch fork bent so it is a good idea to go ahead and replace it, .[/QUOTE]

+1 this fork is a pain to do if you want to change the bushings..as stated above, it gave me such a hard time that I almost gave up, get a new one you don't want new everything with old fork arm bushings and some play or worse a cracked bushing after doing all that work. As zippy said it is 75% labor. Good luck

 

I'm subscribed to his channel lots of fun watching him work

 

I'm the guy in the mechanics overalls who comes in about halfway through the R50 clutch job. Even though Kurt likes to do most of the work himself I actually did help a little. I do know my way around a wrench, just not like he does.

Val

 

I'm in the process of installing a new clutch on my R50. All my parts are here except the clutch fork and bushings (I didn't know I needed them until I removed the transmission).

The clutch fork arm is a major PITA!!!!!!!! to remove. Mine has a broken fork arm so the shaft is bad. After MUCH work I just cut the shaft off. My flywheel needed some work so I sent it to the local machine shop for a resurface... it cost $90 because it is a two step flywheel and requires an extra cut.

The kit above is what I should have ordered so I got everything in one kit but hindsight is 20/20. It's not a bad job just steady work. I had mine out in 2 hours and that included messing with some water hoses that were leaking. Replace as much as you can afford while you're in there... because you don't want to be doing that job over again in a few weeks.

Just my two cents worth.

Good luck and have fun.

Tony T