Hello. There is a high pitched noise from the engine/transmission area which disappears as I rev up the engine rpm.
Car is not drivable as the clutch is shot Waiting to order a new clutch kit, but from the rattling noise, I am wondering if the transmission is shot as well...

It's an 05 cooper s/6spd with 66k miles

This video describes it much better:

 

Your tranny should be fine but I wouldn't rev the engine until your clutch is in, the rattle could be the throw out bearing self destroying the problem with that is that it could damage you transmission housing, flywheel and so on so leave it alone until you fix the clutch, check your flywheel.

If you need a new flywheel go with this http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...onversion.html

 

minibx thanks for the reply. here is some more details of the issue. the clutch lever under the bell housing is stuck, not moving at all. your right, it looks more like a broken throw out bearing. I was able to start the car in 1st gear and drive away , then stop on a down hill and again start it on 3rd gear and drive home. It all started when I was going up hill on a friday traffic inching away, clutching too much and at one point , i could feel vibration as I step on the clutch lever, then i lost the clutch lever to the floor. when looked under the car saw a puddle of brake fluid in the slave cylinder sleeve, thought i could get away with a salve cylinder, replaced it with a brand new one, bled it, same story. the clutch lever on the bell housing is not compressing the slave cylinder all the way , as you can see in the video.

 

I just saw the video, didn't see it before but as advise before just wait for your clutch to arrive. When I did my clutch it was doing all kinds of noises too and when I opened the bell housing I couldn't find the TOB because it was in pieces, it was all over the old clutch Pressure plate and flywheel uuuuuuh I forgot in case you need the flywheel. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200.../flywheel.html Anywho avoid any surprises wait for the clutch to arrive, another member here had a hole in his bell housing as a result of the TOB braking apart rare but s... Happens. The TOB is probably stock at the Fork arm and that could be a reason for the arm not moving. My advise... Change as much as you can. Guide tube, don't reuse the guide tube'bolts and be careful as you torque them or they will brake one or two, ask me how I know....if you decide to keep the fork arm at least change the bushings they are very cheap, also change your crank positioning sensor O ring in front of the block it's 3 bucks.

 

By the way LUK makes the clutch for MINI. The Valeo kit is popular because of the solid flywheel.

 

Than you so much minibx!
the first link you mentioned has the entire kit including flywheel
Thanks for the partsgeek link, their price looks very reasonable. they reliable? you bought from them before? never heard of them before thou

 

I got my clutch from them, they are good but don't expect customer service. My brother used them as well they are legit. Good prices

 

minibx, Thanks a bunch. I got the clutch kit from partsgeek.com. I took the overnight shipping for $28 , but still an awesome deal. btw, the kit inlcudes the plastic alignment tool also, which is great!

Other than the guide tube, bolts and bushing, anything else you recommend replacing? Pelican article mentions about changing two seals on transmission. did you do that as well ?

This is what I am planning to follow. If you have a better one. please let me know
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
Thanks again!

 

Good deal, yes it comes with the plastic tool, the factory tool is about 90.00 bucks so it is a great deal. I didn't do the seals, they looked good..... To me, besides I got a bit nervous about changing seals, if you don't seat them correctly that will be an issue, some will say that you have to change them but others won't unless they are bad.

I did follow the Pelican parts article for the most part but if you google it there will be many more so I used a bit of everything that came back,

I didn't remove the struts or the brakes, mind the starter , take as many pics as you can as reference and bag everything with labels so you know what goes where, if you can place them in a box in the same order as you take stuff off it will help you when reverse assembling, a lift will be great but if you don't have one, most of us don't lol jack you car as much as you can safely you'll need the room to take the subframe out. Transmission jack is a plus and or an engine support brace from Harbor freight I dint have any of this but if have to do it again I'll get those for sure

Check this guy out of YouTube Mod MINI he has tons of videos that are very helpful

. I can't stress enough that you have to document your work so you remember where everything goes

In my case the forlk wouldn't come out of the TOB arm I had to beat the crap out of it

 

awesome! That helps

I found this video also "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=of27ADMbOyc"
Quick question. did you have to drain the radiator?
I guess transmission fluid has to be drained as well? that's some thing I over looked, when looking at the procedure. need to order redline MTL
trying to avoid as much stuff that is absolutely not required
My car has 66K miles when I picked it up 2 weeks ago from the first owner. The Thermostat and water pump may be about to go on these models around this mileage?

 

I did drain the radiator because it was a good time to do a full flush, there is a 3rd drain plug by the starter that one will drain the remaining coolant from the block.. do it specially since you don't know when was the last flush. Redline is great, you only need 2 quarts. Water pump and T-stat.. up to you but they are cheap since you are in there may as well do it, change the flange O ring that goes to the block in fact change the whole part clean well and put the new one in.my water pump was fine, now is leaking a bit but not much so I may do that when I have time
PS: I have 94K on my 05
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-C...oling/ES24417/

 

minibx, you are the best!! Thanks for the prompt reply! I Appreciate it

Since my car will be sitting in the garage for some time, I thought I will do some restore work also. Going to order pre-pressed control arm bushings( read good things about powerflex) waterpump, t-stat and coolant expansion tank. please lmk if you have any opinion on brands or specific retailers

 

No problem, I would mix retailers I try to stay within the NAM sponsors they are all excellent vendors
Way Motor Works
Outmotoring they would normally have a 5% coupon every month
ECS tuning is a favorite
Of course Pelican parts

If you are changing the expansion tank as well you may want to buy the kit

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-C...ing/ES2581955/

A lot of members recommend an aftermarket aluminum tank, can't remember who makes them but it will cut you budget a bit

Power flex you can get from Way he will steer you on the right direction give him a call in GA

This link is very useful for part numbers and such.

http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsM...4986&md=200508

Just make sure that you enter your VIN to get the correct part #s

 

One more thing to look for is the upper radiator hose, as it sits so close to the fan in some cases may be shaft due to rubbing against the fan case if that's your case try to trim a hit from the rad fan case to avoid contact with the hose, it's simple and it won't affect the fan functionality in any way, just something to keep an eye out for.

 

Thanks! will keep an eye on that

 

I am tempted to get this engine support bar that you recommend getting.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

Is this going to be much use for this clutch work ? There are plenty of jack stands in my garage
I have a BMW 318 oil pan gasket replace pending which needs this engine support, so if MINI needs it I will get it ahead of time

 

I would get it, I don't have it but if I had to do it again I will get it for sure, you will enjoy the extra room underneath the car when you are working plus is a MINI so you will need it agin lol see if their 20% coupon is good for that item. Get a friend to help with the tranny, on and off and watch out for the AC lines and such, very tricky

 

yep the 20% works for this item! I used 20% coupon to get impact wrench (electric/wired for $39.00 with coupon, pulled the axle nut right away with no hesitation) and transmission jack as well! All set now, its a matter of finding time in the weekend

 

Nice, funny thing is I purchased a big *** impact gun from them probably the same one you have for 16 bucks on their tent sale, it was an open boxed item but no visible use at all just new.

 

Hi minibx, how did you manage to remove this bolt ? I am kinda stuck here

 

Hey, I can't remember what combination of tools I used but it was a pain lol, is your tranny mount still in place? You may get more room to work if removed, I didn't use the impact gun for that bolt but the angle was a real pain, remove as much as possible to allow more room, eventually I got it out but don't remember what extension was needed I just kept experimenting until I got it lol what a pain that was, again once removed careful with tranny removal and AC lines and such

 

yep, tranny mount is still in place.
I bought this universal joint from home depot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8...UNIV/202913556
Going to give this a try tonight

 

That did it!

Found all the torque specs here: http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f275...settings-5915/

this document says not to reuse a lot of bolts around power steering , drive shaft hub nut etc. is that the case? or a blue thread lock and original nut/bolts will do ?

 

Cool, I know for use that you can not re use the drive shaft hub nuts, those are a one time use because you have to bend them a bit after install to prevent them from backing out every other bolt I re used, not sure if that was smart but I didn't want to wait for parts lol. The only other bolt that would buy new would be the steering rack bolt, I re used mine but is better if you get a new one.

 

Thanks minibx, I ordered those hub nut and steering rack nut/bolt from the stealer(dealer)

btw, here is a picture of the TOB with no B (bearing) . Luckily it was still on the guide tube, so it didn't kill the transmission housing - forgot to take a picture before i remove the bits and pieces from the tube