So, a progressively louder, RPM-dependent rattle quickly turned into a crunch in rush hour traffic. CEL came on and the engine lost some power and ran rough. Little bits of something could be seen bouncing down the road behind the car. When I was able to stop, the engine was smoking and when I shut it off there was kind of a blast. Oil splattered all around the engine bay and leaking out underneath.

Yikes.

I know it wasn't the timing chain slipping off - that happened 2 years ago. And ever since the alternator was replaced a few months ago, it just hasn't seemed quite right.

So, my local shop says the engine needs replaced. They won't know the cause unless they tear it apart. Does this sound like something a failing supercharger would do?

Clearly, the engine needs replaced. Can I assume that the SC would also need replaced? Water pump? What else?

This is tough because the quoted price for the engine, $5500 (which I assume does not include labor) is more than the car is worth with 139K miles. And a SC adds at least another $1300 to that.

MiniMania has a rebuilt long block for ~$4600. There's one on eBay for $3000. Any other options?

Can the stock Eaton SC be replaced with anything else?

What stage of grief is this?

Thanks!

 

Sounds like you threw a connecting rod. Bummer.

 

Why replace the sc? Water pump is a bolt on too, but for the $100-200 or so...new is the way to go IMO...
The sc is a bolt-on item, just like your alternator, ac compressor, etc...all generally reused if in serviceable condition....just moved to the new block...
Sounds like the bottom end failed...why spend $$ to tear it as apart unless you are going to fix it...
Sounds like my you need to decide on the merits of a good used, similar mileage engine, compared to something newer or rebuilt...comes down to $$ And future plans...

 

i took a quick look on ebay and saw many mini engines for sale. Zippy is right, no need to change the supercharger. looks like you could get a used engine for 1600-2200 from what I saw.

 

Its worth contacting Classic MINI to see what they could get a reman engine to you for. They have the best prices I've found on OEM parts. Might be able to get you a reman block cheaper than you've found elsewhere. 440-585-9950

 

I'd contact these folks:www.waymotorworks.com

 

Definitely. Way might be able to help you out with a good used engine. Another one to call as you figure how to move forward.

 

I faced a similar decision a few months ago. the 5500 option should be for a factory reman (Way has them, as well as other sources) and that should be bulletproof. Like said before, just swap over your SC for now if it still spins freely. I'd change the waterpump just because.

You might also consider a built motor. for less than $7k, RMW sells a Grand Am motor with all the goodies (custom crank, rods and pistons, big valve head, cam, etc.) that should be bullet proof and a great performance upgrade; if you're already spending north of 5 grand, the extra bit won't matter in another 6 months but the performance will make you smile.

Used is a crap-shoot; unless you really know the history, it's definitely caveat emptor, but good used motors certainly are out there. Just remember that it's a performance car, now 7 or more years old, and if a used motor is being sold, it's likely because it either had some issue or the car was wrecked; neither speak strongly to the longevity factor.

 

Do you need a full engine or just the block ?

The factory MINI rebuilt engine is here, it has a core charge already in it:
There is one for the automatic and one for the manual for part numbers, its some additional parts on the same engine.

Remanufactured Short Block Engine MCS manual w/o JCW tuning kit


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11000430233/



or

Remanufactured Short Block Engine MCS automatic w/o JCW tuning kit


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11000430235/


And there is an engine part # for the JCW tuning kit.


Thanks and good luck , I hope you can get things back together with your MINI.

 

If you're in Canada, your choices for rebuilt/reman engines may be limited.

I threw a conrod bearing and had my W11 professionally rebuilt, during that time I had the dealer install a new JCW crate engine.

I have my original W11 for sale as we speak, and for those of us up here in the great white, it's a great deal vs OEM or shipping one up from the US.

 

Since you live just south of Columbus I suggest that you contact someone at Mid Ohio Motoring, the MINI group in Columbus. They are no longer on NAM but you can find them at www.midohiomotoring.com and their website will lead you to the forum that they are on. They have a bunch of connections around you that can help you with your issue.

 

Ouch, that must hurt. Tough decision.. 8 yr old mini, 139k miles? What's the condition of the rest of the mini? Sounds like a decision based on dollars, and how attached you are to the mini..

 

I feel your pain on this one. I am currently going through this right now. I had a rattle that ended up being a rod bearing. When I weighed my options I found that a re-manufactured short block was the best solution for me. My garage was able to get one cheaper then I could and it came with a warranty. Plus I didn't need a new top end since I've replaced all that recently. I'm trying to determine now what else I should replace while the engine is out. Good luck!

 

Did the conrod let go or did you catch it beforehand? If the latter, could they not replace the bearing in your existing engine?

 

HI CHKMINI!
Thanks for sharing.

 

What did you end up doing?

 

I have just experienced almost the exact same issue.
I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S w/ 81,000 miles.
I also replaced the alternator at 77,000 miles.

I heard a loud clanking noise and brought to dealer to be diagnosed.
They said that the 1st cyl connecting rod bearing had extensive wear which was caused by oil starvation (3-4 quarts low) due to a major leak from the oil pump/engine side cover.
They quoted me $5,000 to fix the bearing but recommended replacing the engine for $10,000.

How did I incur such a large oil leak in the past 3k miles since last service?
Could this cover have been removed and not replaced correctly?

Also had major service at 70,000 miles including rear main seal and clutch, and primary cooling fan. ($4600)

Trying to figure out what to do from here.