Cant wait to see all the results from the hard work. Dyno, track times, etc...

 

Been jammed with work (Seven days a week since before Christmas)… I haven't had time to fiddle. I have a slew of parts to go on the car, sitting in the corner of my office ") Outmotoring still have the GP Intercooler for $570, (Well, they did last week) So I jumped on that.. Stainless break lines.. M7 Grill's front and back. I managed to find a "Crome" Cravenspeed shift well cover (they didn't make very many of them) that i wanna put in..

 

I have a day at thunderhill feb 15th (Christmas Present) so i'm hoping, to have the clutch "broken in" by then.. I've been so busy (I work at home) i've only put 370 miles on the car in the last 5 weeks..

 

Here you go… The belt jumped… Then decided to give the seal on the Spintex a hug!! ")

Fixed…

Dunno why the pic is reversed..

 

It's not dead though. Just a seal and tensioner shock right?

 

No, drove it home Last night.. the shock/belt tensioner is fine, we can't figure why the belt jumped, has anyone else had that happen?

 

One guy on the list did, Sprintex ended up replacing the S/C.

Did you make sure to install the shim in the pulley?

 

What Shim??

Can You Post A Link To Info on this? Or Is The Shim Info in the Sprintex Thread?

 

They may have done away with it, but I would ask. On the first kits there was a shim (approximately 1/8-3/16 thick) that went behind the pulley for proper belt alignment. It was discussed to do away with it and just redo the design of the pulley, so that might be it.

I would get a hard straight edge out and check to make sure everything is aligned. If it is a little bit off you will for sure throw belts transitioning to higher load.

 

This is good info!! Thanks Man.. I'll ask Gary.

 

Yeah they did away with it… My pulleys are aligned… we're all a little confused as to "why" it threw the belt… The only explanation i can think of, it was on the "plus side" of the size… from what i gather, they can be plus/minus 10mm of the stated size… as discussed in the sprintex owners thread..

I know the "new" belt was harder to get on.. I did the first one on my own.. Pretty easy.. Couldn't of done it with the new belt, needed four hands..

My clutch feels amazing!! We'll see how long it last's… The whole car feels very connected..

The GP intercooler and the diverter are going on the car this weekend..

I'm waiting on the 64mm pulley before we start tuning..

 

GP I/C Is On!! Very nice!! Not sure about the JCW Sticker on the diverter though, Since i don't have a JCW, I feel a bit weird about the logo. But, i don't want to destroy it getting it off..

 

Tore the front off the car to replace three grommets ")

I'm trying to track down the P1477 code: "Reed valve cannot open"

On the OEM supercharger intake ducting, the connectors for the vacuum tubes are quick-release couplings which work pretty well, "nice tight fit"

The rubber grommets supplied with the sprintex are a little wimpy. They tighten around the vacuum tubing by way of a bracket that "crushes" the grommet around the tube.. when pulled down all the way, the tubing is still a little loose = vacuum leak..

After trying a few fixes, before i replace the vacuum diagnostic pump, I decided to go with "thicker" grommets.. hence my day of "pit stop" practice

I was driving the car by end of business… quite pleased with myself..

We'll see if i get the code in the next couple of days..

 

if you are somewhat careful peeling up a corner then pulling, the sticker comes off easy. I relocated mine from a silver to a black diverter, and may move it to a painted one later.


If you don't want it, let me know, I'll give it a good home.

 

Well The belt and seal were a pretty easy repair, Flushed the charger with a couple of quarts of redline…

1k on the Sprintex!!

Figured out the P1477 code, rotten rubber seal on the small breather tube that "T's" into the vacuum tube under the big S/C horn. I'm ready to tune!!

But, it's gonna have to wait until I get the car back from the painters… having the rear hatch repainted… Plus, the paint job on the rear fender looks like orange peel.. Painted!!… Also, at the same time, i'm gonna have the interior console "Down tubes" painted the same color as the exterior color, should look nice..

 

Back from the painters..

 

Sweet!

 

the P1477 code is the reed valve in the Leak Detection System pump next to the fuel tank behind the passenger side rear fender trim...MINI uses a pressurized system for fuel feed and return...if the car cannot pressurize the fuel system it will throw this code...but it also comes from a loose or broken vac line or connector boot...look at all of the vac lines coming in and out of the intake manifold/supercharger/etc


or...

the pump has failed and the entire assembly will have to be pulled out...also check the vac lines back there ...because of the pressurized system if you go up any hills or altitude climbs it could cause a miss or a shutdown of the car

 

Finally, after three months of "just, not having time" I'm logging and Mynes are tuning..
just got it back then flashed the first tune, Dam! i'm liking my MINI ")

 

Replaced my clutch slave last week..
On my third CRM, Holy Cow!! the difference is crazy! the only trouble is my hooligan twin is raising his head ")

Side note, i think i've blown out my cat ") my car sounds to good..

2K On the sprintex

Since installing the M7 Under-strut's, the car has developed a clunk while turning right, (Doesn't do it all the time, but it's annoying when when it happens) i've checked all the usual suspects, torn boot, u-bolt on steering column, pinch bolt, bearings, upper strut mounts, tie rods, nothing… (Doesn't do it on the lift) FYI everything that "could" be replaced on the subframe, has been…within the last six months...

FYI: I have the phantom grip LSD.. which works very well.. Makes the car a lot of fun to drive..

I'm wondering, anyone have an idea?…

 

Figured it out: the large bottom ring on the left Megan strut had gotten loose...

 

Hey stoker..which nod

 

Hey stoker..which model Megan's are those? Also always meant to ask - did you rebuild the bottom end? How many miles on it? I'm approaching 100k miles and know the SC will go someday...just wondering if it will be worth going sprintex at that point. If I can justify the cost and if bottom end will hold together...

 

They're the adjustable Megan's: http://www.waymotorworks.com/megan-r...coilovers.html

When i bought it, It had 110k On the clock, 115k now..

No, I didn't rebuild the bottom, we checked the crank and the mains, couldn't find anything wrong.. it was one of the reasons i bought this car in the first place, Steve (Custom MINI shop) had already worked on the car, he knew the engine was in really good shape…(Pretty much the "only" thing in good shape, I've replaced a bunch of stuff) seem's, the engine had been properly maintained (Regularly) throughout its life. It's a California car, so rust/corrosion isn't an issue. (Not that, that's pertinent in this case)

Once i took off the M45 i didn't check it for wear (Put it in a box and forgot about it) now that i have a little time on my hands, i may go check it…

I think the M45 is a pretty darn good SC!! it occurs to me that, if your SC is in good shape, throw on a reduction pulley…

I'm not saying the Sprintex is not worth it, my Mini is a rocket ship.. If i decide to move to a smaller pulley (i have the Stock 69mm on the SC right now) next year, i know the sprintex can take it. i didn't do the 64 or the 60 cause at this point, i don't wanna do the water/meth thing, the temperature get's up into the 110's in fresno, that means my CAI will be "HOT"

Having said that, there are a couple of MINI's here, that are very quick, using the M45 W/reduction pulleys and a "Mynes" tune. It's all about the tune..

 

Warning: this may annoy some of you ")

The main difference between the M45 and the Sprintex (As far as i can tell) is the low end torque. (Don't forget, My MINI is a 2002 with the taller gearbox)

I drove the MINI for 3 months with a 15% pulley.. It was great!!
Then i got the "bug"... At the time (Last August) the Sprintex was the only "viable" optional upgrade, that is CARB approved.

So, i went with that.. I got the GB price from Mynes..
550 injectors, wideband A/F ratio monitor, and the sprintex w/electric Water pump, and the CRM..

IMHO
In the low end, 2k to 4k RPM's the M45 doesn't really kick in.. Above 5k is where the M45 comes into its own…

The Sprintex on the other hand, "really does" deliver in the low RPM range, It's smooth as heck! all the way up to 7400.

There is no "waiting" to get to second gear..

We spent Saturday driving each others cars.. "Everyone" of those guys couldn't believe how much better the low end was in my car …. (i'm on my 8th tune, so i'm pretty happy with the car)

We kinda have a "test track" by the shop, construction began, They built the roads, then ran out of money ")

I hate to say this but, those guys are missing out… I love my Sprintex….