Whats up guys & gals. First post here other than the intro thread.

Bought my first MINI about 4 months ago and have loved every minute of it. I used to be in the vw/audi scene so I'm no newbie other than to this engine itself. I started modding the moment the car hit my driveway.

Listed here:
Alta 15% pulley, Alta CAI w/ tube, Alta IC diverter, magencor wires, msd coil, brisk colder plugs, catch can and just recently performance header & race cat.

Now on to the troubles, my serp belt snapped leaving me stranded about 2 months ish ago. I decided that would be a good time to upgrade the pulley and ignition. Upgraded to the previously stated kit and everything went great. I had a small idle issue following that. Never effected drivability until now.

Installed the header / cat combo an the problem is now more pronounced. I do believe the headers have any correlations other than it being louder. I took to autozone and got the codes pulled and they were both for the throttle body P0222 and one other.

Pulled the TB apart and cleaned it. It was pretty dirty but I feel like it is the TPS, which would have to replace with a new TB.

Before I go off and order a new TB I want to be sure that is the problem.


Anyone have any suggestions on what I could test or what I could do?

TIA


For the record, I have been "searching" for days now



The TB

The Bay

The Car

 

Bump

 

Just curious, is your Crank Shaft Pulley and rubber Dampener okay,.. the rubber part and metal part still connected as one peice?

What is the other code? Is it p0123 -a google search shows me these two codes seem to be common to come together.

If the two codes are P0222 and P0123, then I would think that you could test the voltage value of each with a multi-meter. Sorry I'm noob (like you.... many years experience on other types of cars). I couldn't tell you how, but with your experience and some research you could probably figure out how to test each one. Then you won't be guessing as much before you buy parts.

I found the values you might be looking for, and posted in a quote below. Hope that helps. I hope a more experienced member will reply as well. I have a lot to learn too -but since you haven't gotten a reply yet, I thought I would throw in my 2 cents. Let us know what you find. Good luck!

 

Thanks got the reply,

I did notice (which I must have looked over) a small "dent" for lack of a better word, on my crank pulley. Which must have happened when the belt failed and the tensioner plunged into the pulley. Ordered a new one today so that takes car of that.

The other code was a p0122. Now I believe it is the throttle body positioning sensor, which is apart of the throttle body itself. I went ahead and ordered a new TB as well as the crank pulley.

After all the research I've done I'm almost positive that it is the sensor in the TB that went bad. Along with the new pulley & TB I think I should be back up to running strong.

Once again thank you and I'll post back when I install the new parts, new TB will be here friday so that should take car of most of the issue at hand!

 

Well so far no luck. I got the new throttle body in on Friday, installed and instantly made an improvement. Drove perfect for the next hour until I hit traffic, then again it started. It isn't doing it as frequent but the problem is still there.

It was a brand new TB so no chance it is the problem now. Today I went and cleaned both tmap sensors and still no better. I've checked all the connections that I would have ever messed with on the car and can't find anything loose, missing, broken or anything along those lines.

I have a new crank pulley coming in which I'm replacing next weekend but I really don't believe that is the problem.

My codes were p0122 and p0222, both dealing with the throttle.

If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated, I'm looking to get my car to the track whenever I get it fixed.

-Nick

 

Nobody?

You guys are making me miss audizine.

 

Ok, I'll try:

Did you do this:
Installation of throttle body is reverse of removal, but install a new sealing ring.
NOTE: If a new throttle body has been installed, the engine management PCM must be recoded and the throttle body matched using dedicated test equipment - this task must be entrusted to a MINI dealer or specialist."

There's likely to DIY the above, but my book leaves a lot to be desired.

So if you have not done something like that, I'd suggest pulling new codes. In fact, may be a good idea to do that anyway.

Next thing I see as relevant is the other code you got -P0122. Again my book is lacking, but both this AND the p0222 point to Throttle Position -OR- Pedal Position. Both are the low input of the circuit and B circuit.

Having already replaced the throttle body with throttle position sensor, the other half os the gas pedal.
"Accelerator Pedal Position sensor APP - as you press the accelerator pedal, the APP sensor alters its voltage signal to the PCM in proportion to the angle of the pedal, and the PCM commands a motor inside the throttle body to open or close the throttle plate accordingly."

Again this book sucks, doesn't tell you how to test it. I hope someone who knows how will tell you how to test it. I wouldn't just buy parts on a guess. -it could just be a loose plug, wire, corrosion, etc. Random thought -Did previous owner have a Sprint Booster, if so where did it plug in? I would inspect that just to rule it out. Check all your fuses -there's quite a few listed as "engine control"

Here's the part, but again -test your existing part to make sure it's broken first.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/35426786284/

 

Thanks again, I did reset the CPU but nothing other than that. Cleaned both MAP sensors and still no luck. I have my scan tool coming in hopefully tomorrow so I can try and get a handle on this.

I've been thru just about every post on every forum regarding this and I've tried every method they've suggested.

But you are correct, they do both relate to low voltage for throttle position. When I was at autozone before the new TB those were the only two codes. What baffles me is how the car acted perfect for the first hour of driving after the new TB even though I tried resetting the CPU before that as well with no luck.

I'm thinking it could be a vacuum leak but I don't think it would cause this issue, plus I have done testing for that and no results.

No idea if the previous owner had a sprint booster to be honest, bought it from a dealership.

 

Not sure exactly what they mean by "throttle body matched using dedicated equipment". IF its a Calibration thing,... I could see how this could be temperature dependent. Im just reaching and guessing, but it would explain why it rn well for the first hour. Sorry I'm not more help. Hoping that your code reader, some other forum members and further testing will straighten it out.

 

I understand that, but I'm not too sure either. I know I can't be the first and only one to have these troubles.

I'll pop back in tomorrow if I get my scanner and go from there

 

Sorry for the trouble you've experienced. Question, I may have missed it but did you upgrade to those mods at one time or if no, what was the order?

 

I did the CAI first off, then when my belt snapped I went ahead and did the pulley upgrade, coil, plugs and then wires. That's when the issue started, after that was the header. Then it was more pronounced. Then I just replaced the TB.

 

Have you check all the connectors to the TPS sensor?

 

The connection into the TB? Then yes, cleaned those off as well

 

Check your IC boots.

 

Got my scanner in today and I also thru up code P0133. Looking that up it is a fault in the oxygen sensor. Cutting fuel, ect ect.

I just put the headers on along with a J plug, thinking now, I probably do not need the J plug pre cat as it should still read fine. Post cat I could see as there is no more catylic converter.

The car is on jack stands and just waiting for the exhaust to cool down

 

Well folks, that'll do it.

Took out the j-plug out of the header, installed o2 back in. Cleared the codes, ran the **** out of it, and she is golden. So after a 300 dollar TB, lessoned learned lol

Makes sense now though, the o2 regulates fuel and so on,so when it didnt read correct flow readings it was stalling out and cutting fuel. Wished the bone head at autozone told me o2 code. Could have saved me time, money and headache.