My cousin has an 03 MCS and it is sooooo sluggish. He has lost so much of the pep in his car. he has about 45k miles on it and hasn't done much to it besides the basic maintenance.

I would like to know if there is a list of things he should replace/check to get his performance back.

On my '09 I know the walnut blasting helps a lot. What can he do to rejuvenate his mini?

 

Plugs
Wires
Check coil for corrosion
Use some Techron FI cleaner
Check belt for wear and if it is slipping
Air filter
Oil change

Is the Supercharger making any noise? Throwing any codes? I would start here IMO. But when did you or your cousin start to notice the performance changing?

 

over time. Are there any sensors to check? valves etc?

 

and also reset the ecu after the tune up ( it might help)

 

Unless you have a CEL the sensors should be working fine. As far as valves, there is nothing to check unless you are having problems. Does he have a SC reduction pulley? IF not maybe he should get one if he really wants to wake up the performance of his MINI.

 

Yes this can help too. Here is how to do it.

How to Reset the ECU:

1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19) The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
2. Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements.
3. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.

Here is a list of all the tests on your MINI:
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calendar week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injector status, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Comb system Test
3.0 Service interval counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel gauge.
1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal implausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No function
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No function
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. For consumption factor
20.3 saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)

 

I'm surprised nobody has suggested checking your BPV (Bypass Valve). That's a typical problem...the spring will get weak or break, keeping the valve from closing, keeping you from building boost. I had that problem with mine. It's easy to see if the valve is working or not....I'm guessing that would be your problem.

 

Good point. Does he have a boost gauge to check this out. If not maybe ha should get a ScanGaugeII to check this and other variables on the performance of his MCS.

 

Although a boost gauge, or scangauge would be nice to have….you don’t need one to see if the BPV is working correctly. Just reach down where the BPV is, and push open/back the little lever arm on the side of the valve. When you let go of the lever is should snap closed with some force. If it doesn’t snap shut, feels weak when it’s closed, or doesn’t shut all the way…….the spring inside is broken. You may need a flashlight to help you see it.

 

I meant so he can check his boost levels and other performance levels..

 

Or, zip tie it closed & see if it makes a difference.

 

or use a torque app

 

Or just walk out, open the hood, reach down and see if the BPV lever is closing

 

^^^+5

 

Problem is that this will only tell you if the butterfly is bad or sticking, since you can only really check it while driving / under a load, if you zip tie it closed, and there is a difference, then you have narrowed it down to not only a bad/stuck butterfly but also a possibly weak spring or vacuum issue to the diaphram.

 

+1
with the bypass valve stuck open (be sure too look at the vac lines leading to it too!), an S will have LESS power than a cooper NON-S, since we have lower compression pistons...
look around the IC too...the rubber boots that seal the IC to the ducts can sometimes split...
i am also betting the car might be overdure for a belt...
And a reminder, high octane only....with so few miles, is the fuel stale...if the car sat all winter, use it up or even drain it, then add some fuel injection cleaner like techron...
and walnut blasting is not really done/needed on a gen1.