hello everyone. I have a 2006 cooper s r52 automatic. I have milltek header and full exhaust system, alta 17 pulley, jcw gp intercooler, jcw air filter without flap and tune. my problem is my boost is too low under 4500 rpm and my dyno graph shows that. after 4500 rpm all my power came alive and the magic happens but under this rpm it is very boring to drive in trafic. any one knows about this issue? Btw, I have changed my bypass valve but it is not the problem. If you look at the attachments you will see the jump in the boost. thanks.

 

Get a stick shift!! Then no issue. Simply put, the mini DOES come alive around 4000 rpm....
The stick shift lets you keep it this range if you want!!
Tuneing auto cars is harder...talk yo your tuner?

 

by saying stick shift you mean that changing my transmission to manual ? what ı have to do to get rid of this jump? and sometimes like once a month or once in 40 days, this issue temporarily gone for just one day and I really love my car, but then it starts again. ıt is not about whether or not about the fuel or not about the weight.

 

Are you running bigger injectors on your tune?

 

no, I am using the stock injectors. I am thinking about some vacuum line leaks that going in and out from the filter. Can this be a reason?

 

Boost IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO ENGINE RPM WITH A SC....
so either you are not making the boost....or you are loosing it. A vacume leak can effect boost by changing the operation of the bypass valve also...it has a vac line and a vacuum diafram that operates it (in part, and the internal spring).
Do you have a boost guage?
So you can monitor the boost? So when you have one of these one in 40 days with power, you know it is boost?
You really seem to like that companys dyno...about your 3rd or 4th post citing it...lat time you said no tune, but had a 50 hp loss in transmission....so i am not sure the dyno is fooling you...
Something must ne getting lost in translation.

 

no, not from the air filter, possibly the IC boots though.
do you have a JCW? if not, recommend at least getting JCW injectors, especially with a tune. you may also consider getting a high flow air filter; that paper thing is junk. lastly, do you have the right sized belt? if its too big, you wont get proper boost...

 

no I dont have a gauge so ı cannot exactly say that this is boost but ı feel that car is generating a linear power so ı dont feel any jumps like in the graph. no ı am not a fan of this company's dyno, this is my second dyno run and this is just for measuring my end power before-after the headers&exhaust. my car is always tuned after the pulley mod but my last tune was done according to these mods and air filter flap mod, and thinking that this is not because of the intercooler or its boots, because this problem is here before my intercooler mod. how can I check for any boost leaks easily by myself? for example when I did the flap mod in my jcw filter, at that day my car is acted like a totally different car, there is no jumps or any other thing. but after 1-2 days, this problem continued. may be a vacuum line or something gets loosen?

 

can this be my problem?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...cw-airbox.html

 

One thing to note..
I have a stick...but driving "normally", 2500-4500 rpm the ride is pretty mild....comes alive wilth a whine and rush of power at higher rpms....easy to keep it there with a stick...not so easy with an auto...ever try sgifting it manually to see if you are just feeling the power robbing feel of an tourqe converter type auto tranny? VW and a few otheres ARE putting dsg auto (dual cluch, auto shifting sticks) on their cars for a reason....the mini auto tranny on the S is not a real performance tranny...its ok,but not for racing or aggressive driving...its more to get you there.
Safe to say you got new intercooler boots with the gp upgrade? You did the divirter upgrade too right...on the hood side, so it lines up with the bigger intercooler too right?
And does the car a tune? Last time it dynoed like a regular untuned car.....

 

Just a thought:

http://on.aol.com/video/how-to-insta...sion-208498186

 

Check fuel pressure and fuel filter. Could be due to dirty fuel filter as fuel pressure (and subsequently power output) will jump like that as the HPFP builds pressure.

Why do you think it's a boost problem? Sounds to me more like hesitation (which is not necessarily a boost issue).

 

oo I forget telling it sometimes like I said this problem solved for one day, this day my fuel was less than the first line. this is not a weight issue but I am also thinking about the fual mechanism, because maybe a pressure happened or another thing I dont know but it may be related to it then when I take some fuel this problem continued. I am not going to buy a sprintbooster because my problem is not about "feeling" like my graph says. How can I check my fuel pressure? Why the hessitation occurs generally?

 

The reason I mentioned the Sprint Booster is that what you're seeing is the exact same situation they're speaking of in the begining of the video, only you're seeing it in graph form.

I honestly don't think you have a fuel pressure or boost issue simply because your problem doesn't persist throughout the entire rpm range, the only way the fuel system would do what you're experiencing is if the fuel regulator were sticking slightly. As far as the fuel system on our cars work, keep in mind the fuel pressure "into the engine" is not regulated by the fuel pump, it's regulated by the vacuum/boost controlled regulator in the fuel rail system, as far as pump & filtration you would be seeing a problem throughout, it wouldn't just correct itself above 4500 every time, again unless for some reason the regulator was sticking slightly and it took a slightly higher amount of boost than normal to actually open it all the way, or get past that sticking point, if you will.

IMO it's an ECU/Tuning issue and the scenario mentioned in the SB video explains it all, up to a certain point the ECU is not letting "full throttle" occur. They only reason I'm leaning in this direction is because of how the system operates and your upper rpm results. One thing you could try to confirm this would be to "temp" zip tie your BPV closed, that way you at least take vacuum out of the equation as far as the BPV goes, if this corrects it you may want to simply do the VGS mod.

 

ok then tomorrow I will be ziptie my bpv and then chech how it is going my second thing to do is putting a screw to the engine side of vacuum line of the jcw air filter

 

How can I ziptie my bpv?