So I have an 05 MCS with 73k miles.

CarFax shows that MINI replaced the upper right motormount at 29,000 Miles, but I don't think it's been replaced since then. It's dirty but dry under the motormount, so I'm thinking that it all leaked out before I even bought the car.

I've heard a click sound when accelerating or decelerating. Ive hard a hard time diagnosing where the sound comes from, but today I had my wife drive a few inches forward and back in the garage while I watched the engine. I see the nut and stud that comes from the top of the mount moves around a fair amount, and I'm pretty sure this is where the click sound comes from -but it's hard to tell.

I also know that the LCA bushings have a lot of flex in them. Theres a bit of wiggle when I kick the tire. It may be a little sloppy driving, but not so bad that it feels dangerous to me. I've driven cars that were much worse.

If I drive gently on smooth highways for a few weeks, am I risking significant other damage?

I want to do this as two seperate projects, to spread costs.

I'm thinking of getting the tool to compress the belt tensioner, a new belt, and a TSW or VibraTechnics mount. That would be one project. (BTW, MINI looked and said the belt shows a little wear, and should be changed soon, but no signs of cracking yet, so it's probably okay for a short while longer)

The other would be the LCA Bushings, and thinking I'd do inner & outer ball joints at the same time, then get it aligned. I think I'd opt to get the Powerflex street ones, prepressed into the brackets by Way. I believe this means I'll NEED to drop the subframe to get the brackets out, as doing it the other way, you can get the bushings in and out, but have to leave the brackets on the car. Is that right?
I'm thinking that I'd rather do a little more work, and end up with more room to work, than to fight with it in close quarters. Not for sure if I need ball joints yet or not (have not inspected them yet), but I plan to keep the car for a long time, so maybe I should just get it all done, -oh and sway bar bushings too. Does that seem like a smart way to go?

I'm thinking to do the belt, and upper mount first, then do the LCA Bushings within a month after that.

Would you suggest I do the two jobs in that order, or is it more important to do LCA first?
Would you insist that I should stop driving it till I can get both fixed?

Thanks in advance for any advice or opinions.

Alex

 

I bought my '05 R53 with 67K on it last year, and when my mechanic did a presale inspection he told me the LCA bushings were shot. The right one was totally gone so that the right wheel was badly worn out and made a roaring noise above 40 mph. I asked my mechanic, whom I trust and is a MINI and BMW expert, whether it was safe to continue driving the car until I could arrange to have him replace it, and he said it was fine. I think he was more worried about the condition of the tire than of the LCA causing danger. I drove it around for I think about two weeks without a problem. If yours isn't so bad that the tires haven't begun to wear out unevenly and make noise, I would think that it's ok to keep driving it for while.

Powerflex is a good idea, that's what I did. That's something that all R53s are going to need to get replaced anyway.

My car also needed the upper mount replaced because it was leaking. Earlier this year I began to notice quite a bit of rocking back and forth when stepping on and off the gas. I don't know how long it was broken before I started to notice it, but I probably drove it like that for a couple months. After my mechanic replaced it with another OEM one, I decided to install powerflex lower engine and transmission mounts myself (which was totally worth it and reduced the rocking even more), but I'll probably go with the TSW upper mount if the upper one ever goes again.

In my COMPLETELY UNEXPERT OPINION, I don't think there is much danger in continuing to drive it for a while.

 

Thanks for the reply Christian. My LCA's aren't nearly as bad as yours were. No weird noises at speed like you had. Sometimes I get a hint of a feeling like one of the wheels is a little out of balance, but I think it's the LCA's.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions that I am risking some un-even and premature tire wear.

I also think that the bad motor mount may be putting additional stresses on the other motor mounts, so I try not to pull too hard in the freeway on-ramps, and am being extra gentle engaging the clutch.

I think I'll do the belt and upper mount first. I think the belt is probably the most critical part that could cause expensive problems if not taken care of.

Anyone know if the LCA Brackets can be removed from the car without dropping the subframe?

I'll have a Bently Manual next week, but just wondering if I should plan on doing it that way. Everything I have read about how to do it without dropping the subframe is when bushings are fit into the brackets while they are still attached to the car. I'm feeling that I would rather get the bushings prepressed into brackets.

Anyone know the life expectancy of the ball joints? I'll do them this time around if they only last till 80 or 90k miles, but may save my pennies till later if they'll last me another year.

 

Is this big H thing I found called "Front Axel Support / Wishbone" what everyone is talking about when they say "Subframe".

If so, I think I can see why it's a big deal. I color coded the LCA Bracket (Yellow), and if I'm reading this right, it is pinched between the bottom of the car and this "subframe".

Hmmm

 

The LCA brackets can only be removed by lowering the subframe. If you do it yourself do not forget to take the power steering reservoir loose.

 

70K is about the limit for any serpentine belt on any model. Motor mounts are available aftermarket that will outlive OEM and can be user installed. The bushings are another matter. Bad things can happen to your gear box and engine and body structure if one or more should decide to go south all at once. A good shop should handle that so they can inspect everything else while they have it spread out on the floor. You don't want an oversight flying off at 80 MPH. That's the way I'd approach the issues you describe but others may see it differently.

 

Thanks for the reply. I am getting a quote from a couple of different MINI specialty shops in town. I just hate to pay other people to work on my car.

I've always worked on my own cars before, helping my Dad with his cars from my earliest memories. There's only a few things I would not attempt today, that is set valve lash, measure rod or crank bearings, or tear apart a transmission. I know I could with some help or training, but I'm not good at measuring things that have tolerances in the thousands of MM. I've done everything else of Alfa's, Fiats, VW and Honda.... I think I just need to get a Bently Manual and get some hands-on to learn MINI. Like everything else, it's all about having the right tool, right?

To me, a part of this decision to do LCA's myself, or pay someone else depends on if I can get my friend who owns a shop to let me use a bay and lift on a Saturday. He'll likely want to help out too, he's a good mechanic but not a MINI expert....

Ohhh decisions -decisions.