HI there forum! So I am a proud new owner of a 2006 MCS that is completely stock. I picked it up from the original owner with 73k miles on it and their appears to be some leaks and other minor items that need to be addressed.

Here is a list of what I plan on doing to get the Mini back into tip-top shape:

Oil change with filter and drain plug
Power Steering Fluid top off/Check and fix leaks
Crank sensor o-ring
Change Supercharger Fluid
Replace Serpentine Belt
Clean power steering fan
Install Mini Madness strut plates
Inspect everything else and address accordingly


So my question to everyone is what else should I be looking out for?

When is this clutch going to die on me?

Should I have the charger overhauled, or will a simple fluid change be good?

Is there a way to inspect the tensioner assembly?

Is it common practice to replace oil drain bolts? Do they not just provide new washers?

What should I be looking for on the timing belt/chain setup? Not sure what the r53 mini has.

Thanks for reading and please provide your opinion or input!

- Joe

 

Joe -

I was just checking in to see where you are at on your complete "overhaul" I bought a 2006 MCS a few weeks ago and would like to perform the same services on my Mini.. What did you find when you were doing yours. And what is the mileage on your mini? Thanks - Steffen

 

I have an 05 bought it with about 60K (now 78K). It also had PS leaks, replaced both hoses, replaced the serp belt and tensioner and added a cable to prevent the tensoiner from coming apart. Plugs, Wires, Oil (including 6sp trans), air filter (went to a cone filter that fits in the JCW intake box but wish I went with a Helix like I had on my '03, I love whine). I didn't take off the SC and check that oil, not sure that's possible with the SC on the car would love to know if it is.

None of it is that hard, but this is my second one and I've helped friends with others so I've invested in the belt tool, brake tool and shop manual. Got to say the PS hoses are were the most annoying part. It's just a messy job and your putting on hoses that you know are going to be leaking in another 3 years.

As to some of you specific questions. I had the M7 front strut bar on my old one and never had strut tower issues my friend had he mushroom slightly but she also managed to trash several tires and at least two wheels that are still under my deck.

Clutch is hard to say, I think it depends a lot on how the car has been driven. My last Mini had 80+K on it when I sold it and it had three owners, dyno pulls and lots of track time.

I like to have new drain plugs on hand and I like to use the ones with magnets in them.

IMHO no reason to have the SC rebuilt unless you are planning on having other things done that would have it off the motor.

I had a serp belt tensoiner go on me on my 03 so I replaced that when I did the belt on this car, if you take the belt off and there is obvious play in the pulley it's bad but I don't think you can easily tell when they are going to go.

The R53 has a timing chain, in theory it should be good, but I have read of people having the tensoiner for the chain go. That would be bad. At my current mileage 78K I'm just not up for the effort required to change it maybe closer to 100K or if I put the top end from my 03 on this car.

 

Do these:
-Castrol Edge 5w-30 or equivalent Oil change with Genuine MINI filter and magnetic drain plug or 1 time swap Fumoto drain valve or
-Pentosin CHF11s Power Steering Fluid top off/Check and swap hose clamps & reservoir cap o-ring to solve leaks
-ATE Super Blue brake fluid. Redline MTL Tranny fluid
-Check leaks:Crank sensor o-ring, heat exchanger, thermostat, axle boots
-Replace stock coolant tank & cap w/ a real one: Canton or RMW
-Change Supercharger Fluid only when accessible. Tackle charger issues only when they fail. Usually, failure is on the gears driving the waterpump. Swapping in an electric waterpump like the Davies Craig EWP80 the sprintex uses would be way cheaper than hit-or-miss charger overhaul.
-Check/Replace Serpentine Belt, $80 Gates tensioner assembly fr Amazon & idler pulley. The tensioner damper is the weak link & not sold separately.
-Clean power steering fan
-Install not Mini Madness strut plates. Choose VIP or Cravenspeed
-Inspect strut mounts (Lemforder/Sachs/Boge), control arm/swaybar bushes(Powerflex are best), replace ball joints while in there.
-Do clutch & timing chain work only when needed.

Once all the above are done? Don't let paranoia spoil the fun! Enjoy your ownership (tinkering/modding included!)
MINI on, MINIon!!!!

 

May want to change transmission fluid, coolant, and brake fluids if not recently done by the previous owner. I would also replace the PS fluid in the reservoir only. Good luck.

 

Oil change with filter and drain plug - Use 5w/30 FULLY Synthetic - aftermarket filters have high failure rate. USE OEM or MANNS.
Power Steering Fluid top off/Check and fix leaks - Do complete Flush/Fill.
Crank sensor o-ring -
Change Supercharger Fluid - OEM Water Pump as well....
Replace Serpentine Belt.
Clean power steering fan - Check 5amp fuse as well.
Install Mini Madness strut plates - Do the "Jack up front end, 2x4/Mallet Method of flattening the strut towers first. Careful not to over tighten the 6 nuts when putting the plates on...
Inspect everything else and address accordingly

Adding:

-Coolant flush fill/bleed. Every 30K miles. Bleeding can be a PITA if a novice at this. Use the BMW/MINI blue coolant. Often overlooked, coolant keeps engine's gaskets supple preventing leaks so important part of regular maintenance.
- Brake fluid flus/fill bleed. Every 2 yrs., removes moisture buildup, for brake parts longevity/function. Bleeding tools required.
-Check Coil Pack terminals, carefully clean off and patina/corrosion with a green scrounge. Number #3 terminal, inside drivers side one is very prone to corrosion as well ( check every other oil change )
-Change Spark Plugs. ( Every 60K miles - keeping them in longer and risk fusing them to the head )
-Inspect Spark Plug wires.
- Remove Intercooler/clean. ( Once a year ) Using Green can of CRC non-chlorinated brake clean spray inside removing blow by build up, blow air through it to speed up drying time or just stand on end outside. Check underside of rubber coupler during installation make sure it has not been pinched back, a loose connection here will result in boost loss and a CEL.
- Inspect the Air filter / vacuum the air box. ( twice a year )
- Remove Inspect Micro-filter - ( Once a year ) for rodent activity, clean out change filter.
- Check Tires tread depth, check tire pressure/rotate/new tires if necessary. Consider going to non-runflats if prior owner had not already made the switch. Carrying a tire goo kit/AAA card instead. For a three season tire can't beat the Nitto Neogen at $100 dollars per corner delivered to the door. ( www.discounttiredirect.com ) They are reliable sticky, have no issues balancing out, and are designed for cars running wheel camber such as the MINI.

Oil Pan Gasket leaking: Currently the MINI film states oil pan bolts are to be replaced " in Conjunction" with this gasket. Unfortunately, at least one set of the bolts they say are necessary are Not available in any MINI warehouse in the USA with zero quantity listed in Germany.....go figure. I see no reason why original bolts would not work perfectly fine. The oil pan is cast aluminum......use torque wrench.

Do not use a 13mm socket for the oil drain plug. It fits too loose and you will strip the head off if it was installed too tightly by some gorilla. Always use a 1/2" inch socket. It fits around the head nice and snug.

As far as modding your water pump and what I would consider more advanced stuff goes, you need to walk before you can run. Mods such as this have potential to create other issues resulting in hours of diag time to an already aging car and inexperienced owner. For now I would suggest that you stick with the basics outlined and have fun with your MINI.

GL.

 

I just noticed this now as I was referencing back to this post that you are from Warwick? I am from south coast MA myself. Small world. Do you happen to work for Inskip MINI?

 

Depending on how long you plan to keep the vehicle...

Also:
Valve cover gasket and spark plug seals
Power steering pump: check recall status with dealer
Camshaft position sensor o-ring
Check suspension components
Check crank pulley
Wheel alignment

If putting in service mode also do:
Oil pan gasket like you said (I used original bolts)
Oil dipstick tube o-ring
Supercharger pulley upgrade and colder spark plugs?

If willing to drop subframe:
Powerflex control arm busings
Front sway-bar bushings
Clutch and single mass flywheel (lightweight option?)

 

Thanks again for all the recommendations, I have been slowly tackling them as time and money permits. Making to do lists along the way!