It just started making this foul noise, no driveability issues i think it may be a broken lifter. any ideas?

 

Sounds like the timing chain tensioner is going. Does it only do it when cold? By chance have you pushed the clutch in to see if it goes away? I still think it is the time chain tensioner and guides.

 

well it comming from the valve cover area, i put a screwdriver up to my ear on the supercharger to see if it was making noise, and its quite yet the valve cover area is quite noisy and it does it alll the time and really loud at idle, that video was taking after i just got off the highway at full operating temp. im going to bring it in to my work tomorrow and probably rip off the valve cover.

 

Then I go back to my other option of the timing chain tensioner and guides. You will need to pull the valve cover to be sure.

 

If it was the timming chain tensioner would the noise be so repetitive? and would it do it all of a sudden like that?

 

Yes it is now slapping around. Here is another video like yours

 

Ill give that a try, hopefully the dealer has one in stock, ill do it at my work tomorrow.

 

Good luck keep us posted.

 

Check the belt tensioner assembly some sound like this when the little shock goes.

 

Good choice

 

Normally if you hear it from the valve cover, it is the timing chain tensioner & 99% of the time the guides are just fine.

 

Yeah that t chain tensioner has been through a lot of updates over the years. Yours is probably just worn and outdated. You should try just replacing that first before you take the whole timing cover off

 

Here is a good basic understanding of instructions on how to do it.

As per Mike There are 2 pretty quick ways to do this with out the special service tool, here is the basic rundown

Option 1 is the fastest way

Take off the passenger wheel

Unscrew all the fasteners holding the wheel liner in place from the forward side of the shock to the bumper, leave the other half in.

Fold the liner back over the brake rotor, it should hold it self in place

The crank gear and back side of the engine should be exposed.

With a swivel socket and a long ratchet loosen and remove the tensioner, some oil will most likely spill out so be ready for that.

Slide in new tensioner, hold it there by hand putting pressure on the chain.

Rotate the crank slowly clock wise with a socket and ratchet feeling for the the tensioner to slide in in. It is important to keep pressure on the chain with the tensioer while this is done.

Rotate the crank until the tensioner has slid in enough to put the screw plug back in or at least get it started.

If the screw becomes hard to turn, it may be necessary to rotate the crank clock wise a little more. Do this slowly as the chain can slap back on rotation locking the tensioner.

Once the plug is all the way down give the crank a few rotations, always clock wise to make sure there is no chain binding.

Torque the plug to 46 FT-LB

Check the oil level, top off if needed

Fire it up and check for rattle or leaks.

If every thing is ok put the liner and wheel back inn

Test drive and enjoy.

This can all be done in about 20-30 min.

Option 2 Not as quick, but still fast.

Have a new valve cover gasket ready before starting

The other option is to remove the valve cover after the wheel liner is moved

Observe the cam gear, it has a raised half and a sunk down half.

Rotate the cam / crank so the raised half faces up with the edges to the sunk down half lined up to the head. Same idea as setting TDC with the line on the cam gear.

This places the chain in a position with the most slack on the tensioner.

Be ready for oil leakage

Remove the old tensioner and slide in the new one in, screw down the plug. This does not require the crank to be rotated and actually should not be moved until the new tensioner and plug are installed . Just put it in and torque to 46 FT - LB

Rotate the crank slowly clock wise to check for binding.

replace the valve cover gasket if needed. Put every thing else back together.

Fire it up check for rattles and leaks

Test drive and enjoy

That's the basic rundown. It's a good idea to buy a shop manual to become familiar with all the parts locations and to have the OE instructions just in case. Its also a good investment in general for any one doing their own work.
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Honestly I've never gone through all that trouble, I've just done mine from the top with a 19mm swivel socket, short extension & either a click type breaker bar or "old & unused" torque wrench to use as such. Once you've broken the bolt loose, it can easily be un-screwed by hand.

 

I just have to share.

A week ago I was sure I had this diesel issue when starting my JCW, or a motor mount going or something. Sounded really bad starting, and would get better as the car warmed up. if I let the clutch in at low revs, sounded like something was groaning/waling. Anyway I took it to Lesure Car sales (great dealer BTW, Tempe,Az) to have them look at it.

They worked on it most of the day and was planning to keep it overnight, couldn't find anything wrong and had to remove some parts to see the last motor mount. 30 minute later they called and it was fixed. They found a socket from some old oil change or something (Mini dealer I'm sure) that managed to get lodged into the motor mount! LOL!

They only charged me $46, which i though was a steal. Really glad it happened to fall into the right place to make the diesel noise.

This is my first JCW and I bought it used. I just assumed the engine sounded a little rattly compare with my old Cooper S. Wow what a difference!

Anyway. Mine issue may not be standard, but it really did sound like a diesel. Just goes to show anything can happen.

I would have never found the issue, and I'm sure if I took it to a real Mini Dealer it would have been $1000 or more and they would have replaced the wrong thing and noise would still be there.

Really happy Lesure's mechanics kept at it till they figured it out.

 

I'm glad I'm not the only one having this issue and even happier that you are all saying what a dealer nearby is saying about the tensioner. I'm having this same issue now and about to take it in tomorrow.

 

Doesn't sound like the timing chain tensioner to me… Sounds more like the exhaust blew a hole, Or the valve cover….

 

mine was making a similar noise then i took the valve cover cap off to test if was the tensioner and it was louder, so i replaced the little tensioner and it fixed it. hopefully yours is the same

 

Thank goodness. I'm at the dealer now and thy do confirm that it is the tensioner. I'm glad it's not anything bigger than that.

 

I stand corrected.