Here's the deal, replaced a boot on my axle which required removing everything. Couldn't figure out how to route the brake line so I removed it from the caliper, now no brakes. ABS light is on, tire sensor is on, tires are all good, and when I was driving I heard a strange noise that sounded like brake pads grinding, but could be something else. I didn't put the sway bar link back on the front, cause it broke. Not sure if thats related to the grinding noise I am hearing or not.

Do I need to bleed the brakes? And what all goes into doing that?

 

If you removed the brake lines you will definately have to bleed the brakes. Make sure also the sensors are also hooked up properly.

Maybe this will help
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/31-BRAKES-Bleeding_Brakes/31-BRAKES-Bleeding_Brakes.htm and this
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-how-to.html

 

First and foremost, please stop driving your car until you get this issue sorted out. Best of luck.

 

I just took it for a test run, and will not be driving it till fixed. Where are the sensors for the ABS, and the tire pressure? Also where is the bleed screw on the calipers?

 

Your car does not have tire pressure sensor like the newer ones. The abs sensor is on the front left wheel and right rear wheel. The bleeder screws are on each caliper. Read the how to's that I posted for you and you should have all the answers you will need.

I will also assume you meant camshaft unless you did a stroker motor.

 

My tire pressure light is on, and it was always out before unless I got a flat, but no flat tires this time.

How do I tell if the ABS sensor is hooked up right? Could it just be cause of the brakes needing bleed?

I replaced the crankshaft pulley.

 

Your model TPS runs off of tire rotation. Under the ebrake is the reset button. Check all tire pressure and then hold it in for a few seconds and it should reset.
The abs sensor can only be hooked up one way. So if you check connections maybe it is lose or it went bad.

Absolutley this will cause the light to come on. Stop driving it and read the articles I gave you and I beleive you will have all your answers.

 

On your signature you list crankshaft not the supercharger pulley that everyone does on the R53.

 

OK, thanks for clarifying. The grinding noise though when I am driving could that be, because of the sway bar link not being hooked up which goes from the strut to the lower bar? Or could it be from hitting the wishbone with a sledge hammer? I doubt the sledge really did anything, didn't really wack it that hard. I was trying to get the lower ball joint out to make things easy, but couldn't. Not sure how to tell if the lower ball joint is bad from using the sledge hammer. I'm hoping its just the sway bar link.

 

Where are you located? Maybe another member can come help you out.

 

Pennsylvania. I know if I take her to the garage it will cost an arm and a leg. I'm going to jack her up tomorrow, remove all 4 wheels, and do the brake bleeding. Then look at the passenger side, and drivers side to see what is out of wack. I did order new sway bars for both sides, so maybe that will fix it.

 

Where in PA?

 

Got my brakes fixed by sears auto center. They told me my alignment was terrible, and I need new wheels. I was sliding all over the roads with this crappy 1" of snow.

Anyway, I hit a guard rail, and now my speedometer reads 0mph, how do I fix that? No damage was done to the car, but speedometer won't move. I was going about 3-5mph when I hit the guard rail. I was turning my wheel the opposite direction as the gaurd rail, but kept sliding, and I know for fact I was very close to a stop when I hit which is why no damage was done.

 

Sounds like you knocked the wheel speed sensor off. Driving without brakes and now this. You scare me, stay off the roads.

 

Ok. Where is the wheel speed sensor? I did have brakes, just took a while to stop with pedal to the floor, and I did downshift, and use the e-brake if I had to. Wasn't too many stops, and then I hit the highway, got off, and I was at the shop.

 

I would suggest getting a manual and reading about a project BEFORE you take it on. No offense but any manual would have warned you that you need to bleed the brakes if you disconnect the caliper from brake lines. The manual will also give you correct torque specs which are very important on these cars.

Good luck with the work. There was a thread around with links to a manual, you will find all the answers you're looking for there.

 

I already gave him these things in the second post. But here they are again.

Maybe this will help
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/31-BRAKES-Bleeding_Brakes/31-BRAKES-Bleeding_Brakes.htm and this
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ed-how-to.html

 

I like using Pelican articles but I was referring to the Bently manual. There was a post with Drop Box files for the whole manual, that's what I was referring him too.

Thanks!

 

Thanks, everything is fine now, just need my wheels aligned, and new tires. Thanks for the help.

 

I actually searched for THAT thread so I can share the link but it is down/gone...for now.

 

You say you're "replacing sway bars on both sides"??? Do you mean sway bar drop links? And what is a "high performance crankshaft"? "Metal radiator hoses"??? Are you pulling our collective legs here? April Fool's is 3 months away.

 

Yes sway bar drop links. Its a high performance crankshaft pulley. Yes, metal or aluminum radiator hoses. Wasn't cheap, but is supposed to last a lifetime. Was like $70.00.

 

Lets see some pics.

 

http://www.frsport.com/Mishimoto-Fle...FVCd4Aod734ATw

 

How about on the car.