R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 replaced timing chain tensioner, and I think the chain slipped a tooth

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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #1  
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replaced timing chain tensioner, and I think the chain slipped a tooth

I pulled the valve cover and set the cam in position where the half was even with the head. I removed the old tension-er and installed the new one. I then rotated the crank to check for binding and I think the chain slipped on the cam sprocket. I checked for more binding and re-assembled. Now the thing had a rolling idle.. Won't idle below 1000 and runs like crap. Above 1200 it seems ok.

Is there a way I can check the cam timing? I am down to zero cars right now.. this sucks
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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If you have the time available, timing the car is not difficult. Remove the crank pulley and the timing case cover and time it. Really not a bad job.

Question though. Did you rotate the motor with the tensioner out? Or did you remove the timing chain from the cam sprocket before removing and replacing the tensioner?

The reason I ask is because, if you did not remove the chain from the cam sprocket, and you did not rotate the motor with the tensioner out, I'm not so sure anything would have happened to allow the chain to jump a tooth.

That being said, it does sound like something is off with the description of its poor idle. I ran my car with the timing off when I swapped heads and the idle was a mess. Any odd noises?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:43 AM
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From: Arnold, MO.
+1, you can actually run the motor (EASY) with a bad tensioner & it won't slip a tooth.

Also there's no reason to pull the valve cover to do a tensioner, so I'm a little confused, you couldn't have accidently damaged the cam position sensor, could you?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by BlwnAway
+1, you can actually run the motor (EASY) with a bad tensioner & it won't slip a tooth.

Also there's no reason to pull the valve cover to do a tensioner, so I'm a little confused, you couldn't have accidently damaged the cam position sensor, could you?
I'm wondering the same thing. Why remove the valve cover?

Also, did you install the tensioner collapsed, or did you expand it before installation?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:55 AM
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There was a post of 2 ways to replace the tensioner..
with the second option being pulling the cover and setting the cam gear in a spot where you have very little tension on the chain.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html

post 11 I think


The last time I didn't pull the valve cover. This time I did, since I could hear a lot of noise coming out of the top end.

I only turned the crank after I had the new tensioner in. It just looked like the chain jumped a bit when I first started to turn it.

From what you are saying, it shouldn't have jumped as long as the tensioner was in place.. hmm.. I guess I could put a scan tool on it.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 03EmCeeS
I'm wondering the same thing. Why remove the valve cover?

Also, did you install the tensioner collapsed, or did you expand it before installation?
Opps.. It was collapsed :(
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by gbfan10
There was a post of 2 ways to replace the tensioner..
with the second option being pulling the cover and setting the cam gear in a spot where you have very little tension on the chain.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html

post 11 I think


The last time I didn't pull the valve cover. This time I did, since I could hear a lot of noise coming out of the top end.

I only turned the crank after I had the new tensioner in. It just looked like the chain jumped a bit when I first started to turn it.

From what you are saying, it shouldn't have jumped as long as the tensioner was in place.. hmm.. I guess I could put a scan tool on it.
I'm a little lost on why the tension of the chain matters when you're removing the piece that does the tensioning. Not sure why you'd want to do more work to pull the valve cover and all.

Was it installed already expanded or did you install it in the compressed position? And was the motor turned by hand or with the key?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gbfan10
Opps.. It was collapsed :(
You wrote that answer while I was typing. If it was collapsed and you turned the motor over by hand, there is a chance that you jumped a tooth.

The tensioner works off of oil pressure. So if it was installed collapsed, and the motor was turned over by hand, there is nothing working to expand that tensioner. Turning the key, even without starting the car, would have pumped oil into the tensioner and allowed it to expand. Without this process, the tensioner would have just sat in its hole until the car was started. At this point, I'd probably take the safe route and time the motor since the process is fairly straight forward.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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Would you recommend I replace anything while in there? It has 96k on it, and has always had a rattle when it was cold.

I will search for the timing procedure.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by gbfan10
Would you recommend I replace anything while in there? It has 96k on it, and has always had a rattle when it was cold.

I will search for the timing procedure.
If it were me, I'd replace the timing chain and timing chain guides since you're going to be in there. That, at the very least, is how I'd go about it.

I have been having problems recently and had the head off the car. I replaced the timing chain, guides, crankshaft seal, oil pump (and timing cover), intake rocker arms (because caps were broken on a few), head gasket, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, belt, tensioner plug and tensioner plug bolt. I also have a new crank pulley on the way, which is something you may want to look into, especially if you plan on any performance mods down the road.

To time the car, you'll need to remove the valve cover, take tension off the belt, remove the belt, crankshaft pulley, belt tensioner, camshaft sprocket and timing chain cover. Then remove the tensioner and the chain. If you're replacing the guides, you'll obviously have to remove those as well.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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Does the timing chain cover need a new gasket as well?

Thanks for all your help.. I have 3 vehicles down right now and am driving a 3/4 ton Dodge diesel 70 miles round trip to work!
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by gbfan10
Does the timing chain cover need a new gasket as well?

Thanks for all your help.. I have 3 vehicles down right now and am driving a 3/4 ton Dodge diesel 70 miles round trip to work!
It would probably be a good idea to get a new gasket. You might as well replace it while you're in there. Come to think of it, I'd suggest replacing that crankshaft seal as well. Its easy to replace and you'll have the timing cover off anyway. And definitely replace the chain and chain guides. If the timing is off and you ran it, the tightness of the chain will occur at a different spot than normal, which could have done damage to your chain guides. No reason to open it all up and do the work just to find an issue with them in another 5,000 miles. Check www.ecstuning.com for all of the parts. That's where I ended up ordering the majority of my parts. They have solid prices and shipping is timely.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 09:09 AM
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My parts arrived today. My Bentley service manual won't be here for 4 days. Is this procedure posted anywhere? Perhaps I should buy an online manual until mine arrives?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 09:43 AM
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I can take pictures of the pages that detail the procedure if you'd like me to. Could probably send them over tonight or tomorrow morning. Did you happen to order a puller for removal of the crankshaft pulley? You're going to need that.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 03EmCeeS
I can take pictures of the pages that detail the procedure if you'd like me to. Could probably send them over tonight or tomorrow morning. Did you happen to order a puller for removal of the crankshaft pulley? You're going to need that.
That would be great!
I have a generic puller for the pulley, I was going to follow the write up on how to remove it with one of those and threaded rod.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gbfan10
That would be great!
I have a generic puller for the pulley, I was going to follow the write up on how to remove it with one of those and threaded rod.
Sounds good. I didn't get the chance to take pictures tonight. Too much going on trying to get my car back together. I'll snap some tomorrow though. I'm setting an alert on my phone as I type this so I know I won't forget. What's an email address that I can send the pictures to?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 08:10 AM
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Emails are in the process of being sent over
 
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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Sent you an email. How'd it go?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 10:04 AM
  #19  
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Went great! Replaced the chain, the tensioner, the guides, gaskets, and serp belt. The Timing was off a lot! Set up everything like in the pics and it runs great! Sure missed the MPG, compared to my truck.
Thanks for all the help!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 04:50 PM
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I'm currently in the process of replacing the timing chain, tensioner, and guides as well...would anyone be willing to send me a copy of the pages/diagrams?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Fhtagn
I'm currently in the process of replacing the timing chain, tensioner, and guides as well...would anyone be willing to send me a copy of the pages/diagrams?
I emailed the OP pictures from my Bentley manual, but I then deleted the pictures. Hopefully he still has them and can send them along.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 10:59 AM
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I do still have them. Send me your e-mail and I can forward
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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BTW, after replacing all of the timing parts, I no longer have that awful cold start rattle. (something it has had forever)
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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Awesome! Thank you. I sent you a private message with my email address.
 
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