R50/53 replaced timing chain tensioner, and I think the chain slipped a tooth
#1
replaced timing chain tensioner, and I think the chain slipped a tooth
I pulled the valve cover and set the cam in position where the half was even with the head. I removed the old tension-er and installed the new one. I then rotated the crank to check for binding and I think the chain slipped on the cam sprocket. I checked for more binding and re-assembled. Now the thing had a rolling idle.. Won't idle below 1000 and runs like crap. Above 1200 it seems ok.
Is there a way I can check the cam timing? I am down to zero cars right now.. this sucks
Is there a way I can check the cam timing? I am down to zero cars right now.. this sucks
#2
If you have the time available, timing the car is not difficult. Remove the crank pulley and the timing case cover and time it. Really not a bad job.
Question though. Did you rotate the motor with the tensioner out? Or did you remove the timing chain from the cam sprocket before removing and replacing the tensioner?
The reason I ask is because, if you did not remove the chain from the cam sprocket, and you did not rotate the motor with the tensioner out, I'm not so sure anything would have happened to allow the chain to jump a tooth.
That being said, it does sound like something is off with the description of its poor idle. I ran my car with the timing off when I swapped heads and the idle was a mess. Any odd noises?
Question though. Did you rotate the motor with the tensioner out? Or did you remove the timing chain from the cam sprocket before removing and replacing the tensioner?
The reason I ask is because, if you did not remove the chain from the cam sprocket, and you did not rotate the motor with the tensioner out, I'm not so sure anything would have happened to allow the chain to jump a tooth.
That being said, it does sound like something is off with the description of its poor idle. I ran my car with the timing off when I swapped heads and the idle was a mess. Any odd noises?
#3
#4
Also, did you install the tensioner collapsed, or did you expand it before installation?
#5
There was a post of 2 ways to replace the tensioner..
with the second option being pulling the cover and setting the cam gear in a spot where you have very little tension on the chain.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html
post 11 I think
The last time I didn't pull the valve cover. This time I did, since I could hear a lot of noise coming out of the top end.
I only turned the crank after I had the new tensioner in. It just looked like the chain jumped a bit when I first started to turn it.
From what you are saying, it shouldn't have jumped as long as the tensioner was in place.. hmm.. I guess I could put a scan tool on it.
with the second option being pulling the cover and setting the cam gear in a spot where you have very little tension on the chain.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html
post 11 I think
The last time I didn't pull the valve cover. This time I did, since I could hear a lot of noise coming out of the top end.
I only turned the crank after I had the new tensioner in. It just looked like the chain jumped a bit when I first started to turn it.
From what you are saying, it shouldn't have jumped as long as the tensioner was in place.. hmm.. I guess I could put a scan tool on it.
#6
#7
There was a post of 2 ways to replace the tensioner..
with the second option being pulling the cover and setting the cam gear in a spot where you have very little tension on the chain.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html
post 11 I think
The last time I didn't pull the valve cover. This time I did, since I could hear a lot of noise coming out of the top end.
I only turned the crank after I had the new tensioner in. It just looked like the chain jumped a bit when I first started to turn it.
From what you are saying, it shouldn't have jumped as long as the tensioner was in place.. hmm.. I guess I could put a scan tool on it.
with the second option being pulling the cover and setting the cam gear in a spot where you have very little tension on the chain.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tensioner.html
post 11 I think
The last time I didn't pull the valve cover. This time I did, since I could hear a lot of noise coming out of the top end.
I only turned the crank after I had the new tensioner in. It just looked like the chain jumped a bit when I first started to turn it.
From what you are saying, it shouldn't have jumped as long as the tensioner was in place.. hmm.. I guess I could put a scan tool on it.
Was it installed already expanded or did you install it in the compressed position? And was the motor turned by hand or with the key?
Trending Topics
#8
You wrote that answer while I was typing. If it was collapsed and you turned the motor over by hand, there is a chance that you jumped a tooth.
The tensioner works off of oil pressure. So if it was installed collapsed, and the motor was turned over by hand, there is nothing working to expand that tensioner. Turning the key, even without starting the car, would have pumped oil into the tensioner and allowed it to expand. Without this process, the tensioner would have just sat in its hole until the car was started. At this point, I'd probably take the safe route and time the motor since the process is fairly straight forward.
The tensioner works off of oil pressure. So if it was installed collapsed, and the motor was turned over by hand, there is nothing working to expand that tensioner. Turning the key, even without starting the car, would have pumped oil into the tensioner and allowed it to expand. Without this process, the tensioner would have just sat in its hole until the car was started. At this point, I'd probably take the safe route and time the motor since the process is fairly straight forward.
#10
I have been having problems recently and had the head off the car. I replaced the timing chain, guides, crankshaft seal, oil pump (and timing cover), intake rocker arms (because caps were broken on a few), head gasket, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, belt, tensioner plug and tensioner plug bolt. I also have a new crank pulley on the way, which is something you may want to look into, especially if you plan on any performance mods down the road.
To time the car, you'll need to remove the valve cover, take tension off the belt, remove the belt, crankshaft pulley, belt tensioner, camshaft sprocket and timing chain cover. Then remove the tensioner and the chain. If you're replacing the guides, you'll obviously have to remove those as well.
#11
#12
#14
#15
I have a generic puller for the pulley, I was going to follow the write up on how to remove it with one of those and threaded rod.
#16
Sounds good. I didn't get the chance to take pictures tonight. Too much going on trying to get my car back together. I'll snap some tomorrow though. I'm setting an alert on my phone as I type this so I know I won't forget. What's an email address that I can send the pictures to?
#19
#21
I emailed the OP pictures from my Bentley manual, but I then deleted the pictures. Hopefully he still has them and can send them along.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
iamcamkeenan
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
08-10-2015 03:31 PM
ECSTuning
Interior/Exterior Products
2
08-07-2015 09:51 AM
ECSTuning
Vendor Classifieds
0
08-07-2015 08:10 AM