Changing the oil for the first time. Had it done at the dealer until now. Changed the filter....piece of cake. The oil drain plug on the other hand seems to be impossible to remove. There is a rubber o-ring so it can't be overtightened. Has to be seized (or possibly cross threaded) somehow. Any sugesstions?

Thanks
Terry

 

Dealers are notorious for this. Go back to dealer and make them loosen it up. Get a Fumoto drain valve and never have to deal with the problem again.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I have the same problem (again). I first had a seized oil drain plug when I first started doing my own oil changes (my service plan ran out). I ended up stripping the part of the plug that you put the wrench on (not the threads). I ended up having to pay a guy to weld a nut on and managed to get the plug out.

Since then I haven't had any problems, but when I went to drain my oil last time, my plug was stuck. I decided to use a top side oil changer and have used it for a couple oil changes since. It hasn't bothered me that I haven't been able to remove my oil drain plug, but if I wanted to get it out, I would hit it with some PB blaster, heat it with a torch, tap on it with a punch and use an impact wrench to get it off. I'm fairly certain that would get it off.

The other option you have is to take it to a dealer or an oil change place and let them use an impact wrench to get it off. If they have trouble you can always play dumb. In fact the cheapest way to go, may be take it to an oil change shop, have them put conventional oil in it, then take it home and change the oil yourself. You'll have a freshly loosened drain plug and only have paid $20 above what it costs you to change the oil yourself.

 

Mine was tight when I did my first oil change..all it took was a box wrench on it and a few taps on the wrench with a hammer. I would definitely not take a torch to the oil pan/plug area. Oil is in fact a flammable material. PB Blaster - sure why not -- torch (NO!).

If its on really tight and you are really stuck then yeah go to a shop and have them change it for you and ask them not to overtighten...tight with a wrench is tight enough. I can't remember the exact torque setting but its not very high roughly 20-25 lb ft of torque. This is essentially tightened with a wrench until its tight and then tighten once more.

 

True, oil is flammable, however, I don't know about you, but I don't have oil dripping out of my oil drain plug, nor is it anywhere else around my oil drain plug (except for on the inside). I'm not going to make you put a torch to yours, but I can tell you that you can safely put a torch to your drain plug.

I used the hammer on the box wrench trick when my first plug was stuck, that's how I stripped it. I wouldn't recommend it; rather I'd invest in an impact wrench that you hit with a hammer, they're relatively inexpensive and very handy. Use common sense, if there are flammable liquids exposed, don't use a flame, but heat is an invaluable resource when loosening stuck bolts. Shoot, I've had people weld on my oil drain plug, if that doesn't start a fire, I don't know what will.

 

I thankfully don't have any oil dripping (car seems to keep most of what is put in)...I am just thinking you are over estimating the skill level of people and the use of fire. I could easily see some guy blowing a hole through the bottom of his oil pan, hitting some sort of hoses in the area, and or dropping the torch on himself while laying under the car..but I guess thats Darwin for ya.

As for the box wrench - sucks that didn't work for you -- I used a 12 point wrench when I had to do it, not sure if that made any difference. I have always felt that had a much better grip on things.

 

Yup, mine was very tough to get off the first time i did my oil change. Dealers seem to love to over torque the drain plug and cheap oil changers also do this. I used wd40, lifted the car a big higher and got a breaker bar. Applied even pressure and bam! Best feeling ever!

Anyone got more info on the drain valves? Reliable? I get an OEM plug ever oil change but the $5 adds up, a one time purchase may be better. I'm just afraid ill fund a trail of oil leading to my car one day with a drain valve!

 

lot's of old threads on this - two contributing factors

one - that built in plastic gasket seems to be a contributing factor - they must swell over time and make the beast very very tight.

two - the recommended wrench is actually the wrong size. Next time try a 1/2 inch rather than a metric and you'll find you have no slop in the fit . . .


at times I've used a 6 point 1/2 inch socket, an 18 inch breaker bar and MY LEG to apply enough pressure to break an OEM plug loose ... but they do come loose b4 the end strips which they did a couple of times when using the recommended metric . .

the plug is a very common size, get a standard replacement and use a fiber or copper crush washer, or as another stated just put in a FUMOTO. That's the way I went on my 02S and have done so for everyone with a GEN1 who comes to me for help on this problem.

As for welding to the bung ... I have a Miller welder but I figure you'd cause more damage to that plastic gasket so went this route with success

These extractors (IRWIN) have allowed me to pull damaged bungs several times, but since I've gone to using a 1/2 inch on the oem plug I've not damaged one myself.