Okay, it looks like fixing my W11 may be more expensive than replacing it. If I had to replace the crank, con rods, bearings that's almost half of the cost of a new engine already, and I still wouldn't find my magical oil leak.

Does anyone have any suggestions where to get a new W11?

I've come across the ones at Way Motorworks
http://www.waymotorworks.com/r53-coo...ck-engine.html but it sounds like they don't ship to Canada (I have a call into them, but haven't spoken directly yet)

If I remember correctly Mini told me the new ones from them come with a 3 year warranty. If I get one from Mini and install it myself, do you think the warranty would still be valid?

 

You would probably have to get it installed by a certified mechanic (assuming you aren't one).

 

Yup, not certified, but capable.

 

may i ask where the oil leak is coming from?

 

You might consider spending a few $$ with a mechanic before tossing a different motor in a car...
You looking for a new, rebult, or servicable used motor?! Stock or with ertras?!

 

Unfortunately I don't have an answer for that. There was no evidence of a leak. No smoke, no drips (and apparently no oil) that's why I say it was magical. For all I know the dealer forgot to put oil in, but seeing as I didn't check their work I can't be sure.

I've found other cases of magical leaks like this around the interwebs, but yes I'm the idiot who didn't check his oil level every week.

 

I've spent the money with the mechanics already and everyone is recommending a replacement engine. As I mentioned the bottom end alone is approximately $2500 and the leak has not been found.

At this point I don't want to put up with a used engine's leaks or issues and would like a new one.

Stock is fine.

 

$4,800? Might as well part the car out, and start over.

You can get an R53 for $7-8k these days...If the engine costs you more than $2.5k, it's not worth it IMO.

 

When was your last trip to the dealership for an oil change? If they didn't put oil in it, they should be replacing your engine.

 

Since new/dealer remanfactured motors are so $$, i would not go down that road....
A good running motor from a low mile wreck would easily save you enough to worry about any issues in the future...the fact a motor procured this way usually has all the extras...so you will have sll of yours for spares...and you are reasonibly good home mechanic could save big $$ longterm...
A compression check on any used motor would be a go/no go imo.
Waymotorworks might be an option....but international shipping can be a big issue...so have a freind in the us to ship it too? The drive home with the motor?
But i think a more local motor (even yours rebuilt) might be a much better option $$ wise if you a a second car...or rebuild the used block....
Simple fact is bmw/mini charges a mint for new internals...so used running motors are a better option for most, espically since in a real sense you have a used motor now.....
Good luck!!

 

http://britishautocenter.com/?id=1501

How about the engine out of this? Only 9451 miles on it- it hadn't even had plates put on it yet! They're down the street from me. I don't know what they want for it or how much shipping would be. They might be motivated sellers- they recently put this car on the local craigslist under "auto parts" so maybe they are looking to shift some of their inventory.

Val

 

Try the haynes manual as it usually has all the specs for each car......

 

i know how you are feeling, and going through. i had almost the same issue with mine.. but the difference is that it had oil, but the oil pump was faulty. it was working sometime and then it wasnt, and then again it was... since i live in croatia, the only solution for me was to rebuild the engine, cause, i cant get a rebuilt engine here nor does the dealer sell one. If i wanted to buy a used engine i would have to give around 2000 EUR, or more. But then i thought, i didnt want to buy an engine for which nobody can guarantee that it will be fine and work properly, u know, high mileage and so on...
One bearing cracked. The engine was working, but you could hear the rod slamming the cylinder... anyway, to make to long story short, there were no replacement bearings for a machined crank, so i had to buy a new crank, new bearings, piston rings, rods, oil pump, gaskets.... the parts were expensive, but then again i knew what im buying.

http://www.bmwetk.com/parts-catalog/.../2002/06/48020

have a look here, and try to sum it all up. I suggest that you buy the parts, but take the car to a mechanic which will guarantee for his work, so if anything fails you will be able to fix it on his cost.
one thing that annoyed me is that if i wanted to buy a rebuilt engine, i had to send mine to UK and wait for the rebuilt one to come back. they were asking around 3000 pounds i think, but the engine is like 300kg heavy or more, and i havent had the money to pay the transport to england, and i sure didnt want to pay the transport price twice. so i repaired my car at a local mechanic, for like 23000HRK which is around 3800USD.. but at least i know that everything is new. The prices on the link above are quite acurate +/- few dollars. Hope everything goes well

 

I'm in the final week of my rebuild. I wasn't able to buy a crate from any vendor (a curse being Canadian apparently)I've upgraded here and there and changed or cleaned a bunch of other parts since I had the access (power steering pump is much easier to access when the engine isn't there).
Wednesday is the first day for the install. I'll update when it's all done.

 

It's been two years. How'd the engine rebuild go? :-)

I have a question about piston ring gap - how did you orient the ring gaps? 180 or 120 degrees? I can't find any specs.

 

Yes, indeed: two years. I had a builder do the engine. I don't have the specs sorry. Building an engine like this is not an easy task.

 

Wow, what an ordeal. Do you remember what the first rebuilder did wrong?

 

I sure do; I have it fully documented. lawyers were involved; I'm not discussing it.

 

I have a new(?) or factory rebuilt 2006 Cooper S Engine, still wrapped and in the factory wooden crate. Sportpop

 

check the supercharger. My mechanic was about to fix the crank seal and new tensioner when he decided to do a compression check and due to the supercharger oil coming through the intake manifold noticed small shavings when doing the compression failing supercharger leads to low power and misfire. First time I heard of a supercharger going bad, but guess my las mechanic didn’t completely reseal the charger and now I’m looking to replace the motor. They aren’t cheap.