I saw a post by someone a while back who needed a new bpv, his numbers where significantly low, and as soon as he changed it the dyno showed HUGE gains. Definitely seems like it's that. Changing the BPV isn't too hard, I did it in like an hour with basic tools. DT ones are $125. I have my old one at home (I changed it for the DT one, still works fine though) if you want I can ship it out to you, just pay me for the shipping.

 

Kinda hard to find a decent place to try 0-60 in my area. Best I could do was cost thro a right turn at about 10mph, then dropped into 2nd pushed to 5500rpm(about were dyno shows no increase), 3rd to again about 5500rpm and passed 60mph in about 8 seconds. Was about a 30% grade hill I was climbing an on ramp.

Is there any way I can check the ecu to see if it has the mini jcw tune from factory? Id hate to bring it in and pay just for them to tell me I do have it

Cheerio, PM inbound. Thanks

 

If it's a factory JCW the dealer has probably done the proper updates.

Zip Tie your BPV closed and then drive it to see if it makes a difference or not, if so, replace it, if not start looking somewhere else. (it will not hurt the car to drive with the BPV closed, just don't leave it that way.)

 

Damn dude. I think im having the same problem with my car. It dyno'd at 117whp with an intercooler sprayer

 

Im not sure how to Ziptie it. But got another bpv inbound, hope I see a differance.

Ive also ordered some stock IC boots(from research best solution compaired to aftermarket) just to put my mind at ease. Also gona reverse the flapectomy on the jcw box just to see if there is any differance.

 

You zip tie the bpv so the air from the sc cannot escape...
The purpose od the bpv is to open at idle/low rpm situations when power is not needed....ehen itopens, the air from the sc is vented, removing backpreasure on the sc, reducing the load on it, and this the motor....it is done to improve fuel economy ....and when it is venting fully, you mini has less hp than just a cooper since an s has lower compression pistons.
The spring on it can break or the seal goes bad....or the vac lines to it get cut....end result, little or no boost.

 

I wouldn't like seeing my AFR down around 11 at approximately 4200 RPMs.

 

Thats actually normal for a factory tune on a MCS, the factory tunes rich @ WOT, for engine safety (one of the reasons being unknown gas quality) this is one of the major factors in tuners being able to get extra hp out of even stock motors.

I still think it's a BPV issue due to the hp-vs-tq spread.

 

Under full boost this is what you want to prevent detonation. Going down to around 10.5:1 will get you max HP under full boost.

 

Just wondering, When you were at the Dyno day were you the only Front wheel drive car? My experiance with low numbers on a Dyno with a front wheel drive car is that the dyno wasn't corrected to rotate in the opposite direction. Of course if this was a four wheel dyno or the hub style then never mind.

 

Actually 10.5 is too rich, 11.5 is about right.

10.5 is good for a bottle though.

 

There was some VW fwd, at about 318whp. I followed it. idk if they adjusted it though

 

Not on the the tunes I have seen on the dyno, none have been on a Mini so I can not speak to that. The happy range is 10.5-11.5 under full boost and WOT I will agree with you there but dialing in the advance and AFR you still gain at 10.5:1