R50/53 Waterpump Replacement
#1
Waterpump Replacement
Did an unexpected water pump replacement this weekend. Took about 8hrs total, and it wasn't as bad as I expected it to be. While I don't have the time, information, or pictures necessary to do a real DIY/How-to, here are a few tips.
- if you see coolant all of the front of your engine block, and leaking down onto the oil pan area, your water pump has probably failed.
- when you buy the water pump, get a second o-ring for the back side of the water pump flange. The pump doesn't come with one for the back of the flange, only for the pump itself.
- remove the entire front-end. You won't be able to do it easily in service mode, and it's not that much more work to just remove the radiator and the modular front end. When you do this, just maneuver the A/C to the side and set it on a bucket.
- You're going to need a set of Torx heads and some long extensions (for bleeding coolant, etc.).
- you don't have to remove the super charger output pipe that runs into the intercooler, you don't even need to loosen it.
- you don't need to fully remove the supercharger. Just remove all the bolts so it's loose and you can jimmy it around just enough to slide the water pump out.
- there are a LOT of bolts that you'll be removing - be diligent about bagging and tagging.
- buy yourself some new hose clamps, the worm kind. Replace as you go, especially the ones on the air intake pipe.
- when you get ready to bleed, don't forget there are 2 bleed screws (on top radiator hose and behind and below intercooler (hard to see, you have to remove the intercooler cover to see it, you'll need a 12" extension to get it). Also, it can take awhile for the new coolant to circulate, so bleeding can take awhile.
- if you see coolant all of the front of your engine block, and leaking down onto the oil pan area, your water pump has probably failed.
- when you buy the water pump, get a second o-ring for the back side of the water pump flange. The pump doesn't come with one for the back of the flange, only for the pump itself.
- remove the entire front-end. You won't be able to do it easily in service mode, and it's not that much more work to just remove the radiator and the modular front end. When you do this, just maneuver the A/C to the side and set it on a bucket.
- You're going to need a set of Torx heads and some long extensions (for bleeding coolant, etc.).
- you don't have to remove the super charger output pipe that runs into the intercooler, you don't even need to loosen it.
- you don't need to fully remove the supercharger. Just remove all the bolts so it's loose and you can jimmy it around just enough to slide the water pump out.
- there are a LOT of bolts that you'll be removing - be diligent about bagging and tagging.
- buy yourself some new hose clamps, the worm kind. Replace as you go, especially the ones on the air intake pipe.
- when you get ready to bleed, don't forget there are 2 bleed screws (on top radiator hose and behind and below intercooler (hard to see, you have to remove the intercooler cover to see it, you'll need a 12" extension to get it). Also, it can take awhile for the new coolant to circulate, so bleeding can take awhile.
#4
I think Pelican instructions has you remove the intake manifold if I remember correctly. When I pulled mine to check my SC fluids, I didn't remove my intake manifold off. Taking your time and being cautious is about a 3 hour job. It's a very straight forward process though so it's not bad at all. Just a lot of parts to remove to get to it.
#5
I don't think the water pump can be done in 3hrs, even by a master mechanic. The dealer says 5-6 hours for them to do it. You'll spend 3hrs just taking the front end apart.
#6
Well, now that you've done one.....
I think I could do one in about 3 hours.......once you've been in there it's not such a mystery. If you've had 10 or 20 front ends off you know where all the 'secret" fasteners are and where they go - that speeds things up considerably.
I did a water pump, crank sensor o-ring and fan replacement and new belt and tensioner in about 4 hours.
At any rate, I'm glad to see that you got it on the road again, now to tyour brakes!
I think I could do one in about 3 hours.......once you've been in there it's not such a mystery. If you've had 10 or 20 front ends off you know where all the 'secret" fasteners are and where they go - that speeds things up considerably.
I did a water pump, crank sensor o-ring and fan replacement and new belt and tensioner in about 4 hours.
At any rate, I'm glad to see that you got it on the road again, now to tyour brakes!
Last edited by MINIdave; 01-25-2012 at 08:20 PM.
#7
I'm pretty sure I can take the front end apart in less than an hour. Like mentioned above, once you've done it once, all the guess work is gone and you'll know exactly which parts to remove in sequence to make it easier to get to the water pump. It's really not a difficult job. I would look for an independent MINI if your dealer is seriously trying to charge you 5-6hrs.
Trending Topics
#8
PO of my MINI was billed 7 hours for the Waterpump R&R last month so at least I will nto have to worry about it for a while.
#11
I'm pretty sure I can take the front end apart in less than an hour. Like mentioned above, once you've done it once, all the guess work is gone and you'll know exactly which parts to remove in sequence to make it easier to get to the water pump. It's really not a difficult job. I would look for an independent MINI if your dealer is seriously trying to charge you 5-6hrs.
#14
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
silence2-38554
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
98
09-21-2016 02:52 PM
Knuckle14
1st Gen Countryman (R60) Talk (2010-2015)
4
08-26-2015 08:10 PM
JPMontes3
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
08-23-2015 01:26 AM