R50/53 Help with a salvaged 03!
Help with a salvaged 03!
Looking to get an 03 Cooper R50 on the cheap. Has minor damage. My biggest concerns are the 92k miles on the car already. I don't know much about this gen, as I was originally looking more at the R56s.
What is the deal with the motor and transmission? Is the motor decently reliable? Can you make decent power with bolt ons and tune? What about the transmission?
Any thing in advance you can tell me about this car? At 92k, what is going to need replacing mechanical wise?
What is the deal with the motor and transmission? Is the motor decently reliable? Can you make decent power with bolt ons and tune? What about the transmission?
Any thing in advance you can tell me about this car? At 92k, what is going to need replacing mechanical wise?
Last edited by Pinky Demon; Mar 20, 2011 at 08:15 PM.
The car is sitting in a salvage yard. It does have body damage but that is not a problem. We have rebuilt many salvaged vehicles including my current DD.
I am just looking for characteristics of a Mini at 92k. I will however take what you said into consideration. Just the excitement of a cheap Cooper project is getting to me.
I am just looking for characteristics of a Mini at 92k. I will however take what you said into consideration. Just the excitement of a cheap Cooper project is getting to me.
K, since you pretty much know what you're doing with a salvage title car....
The engine's are fine, but the tranny can be a weak point - if it's the automatic I'd avoid it completely, replacemnts are unavailable except new and very expensive - like $7k.
If it's a 5 speed stick, almost the same issue, no repair parts are available and replacements are very expensive, if available at all.
Bottom line, probably not a good candidate at this mileage, unless you intend an S engine/trans swap!
Oh, and bolt ons and tune do very little for the performance - an S would be a better choice for that. Lots of bolt ons and improvements available....
The engine's are fine, but the tranny can be a weak point - if it's the automatic I'd avoid it completely, replacemnts are unavailable except new and very expensive - like $7k.
If it's a 5 speed stick, almost the same issue, no repair parts are available and replacements are very expensive, if available at all.
Bottom line, probably not a good candidate at this mileage, unless you intend an S engine/trans swap!
Oh, and bolt ons and tune do very little for the performance - an S would be a better choice for that. Lots of bolt ons and improvements available....
K, since you pretty much know what you're doing with a salvage title car....
The engine's are fine, but the tranny can be a weak point - if it's the automatic I'd avoid it completely, replacemnts are unavailable except new and very expensive - like $7k.
If it's a 5 speed stick, almost the same issue, no repair parts are available and replacements are very expensive, if available at all.
Bottom line, probably not a good candidate at this mileage, unless you intend an S engine/trans swap!
Oh, and bolt ons and tune do very little for the performance - an S would be a better choice for that. Lots of bolt ons and improvements available....
The engine's are fine, but the tranny can be a weak point - if it's the automatic I'd avoid it completely, replacemnts are unavailable except new and very expensive - like $7k.
If it's a 5 speed stick, almost the same issue, no repair parts are available and replacements are very expensive, if available at all.
Bottom line, probably not a good candidate at this mileage, unless you intend an S engine/trans swap!
Oh, and bolt ons and tune do very little for the performance - an S would be a better choice for that. Lots of bolt ons and improvements available....
Appreciate your time.
It would be cheaper to buy an S, salvage or not than to change one out. But if you have access to an S engine/transmission then the swap is pretty much bolt in, as long as you get all the parts, such as the ECU, oil cooler motor mounts, subframe, axles etc.
If you could get the whole front clip that would be the easiest way.....
If you could get the whole front clip that would be the easiest way.....
The problems I have heard with the midlands is that the seals would leak in colder climates...do your own research on the midland but my impression has been that if it is the original and lasted to 92k then it will be fine.
Other than the midlands the R50 is far more reliable past 100k than the R53...If you want something to mod, drive hard and thrash it back to the yard then there are much better options that are cheaper, easier and make more hp....
now if you want a go kart like track car....that is another story
Other than the midlands the R50 is far more reliable past 100k than the R53...If you want something to mod, drive hard and thrash it back to the yard then there are much better options that are cheaper, easier and make more hp....
now if you want a go kart like track car....that is another story
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Looking to get an 03 Cooper R50 on the cheap. Has minor damage. My biggest concerns are the 92k miles on the car already. I don't know much about this gen, as I was originally looking more at the R56s.
What is the deal with the motor and transmission? Is the motor decently reliable? Can you make decent power with bolt ons and tune? What about the transmission?
Any thing in advance you can tell me about this car? At 92k, what is going to need replacing mechanical wise?
What is the deal with the motor and transmission? Is the motor decently reliable? Can you make decent power with bolt ons and tune? What about the transmission?
Any thing in advance you can tell me about this car? At 92k, what is going to need replacing mechanical wise?
1) already has "minor" damage
2) relatively high miles
3) While the motor is likely reliable, neither Manual or Auto transmissions are. Both are expensive to replace if needed.
4) its naturally aspirated and made maybe 100hp to ground brand new. No individual bolt on is going to make a difference and by the time you throw everything available at it - could have got an S, or an undamaged more reliable used car.
5) 100k miles is the tipping point for many expensive services. Likely the reason its cheap to begin with - gots to move.
The "s" r53 gen1 can make good power with bolt ons...less temperamental than the turbo ones too....
But the r50's are pretty limited performance wise....not much to gain for the $$.
Good move skipping on a r50 with a poor history....
But the r50's are pretty limited performance wise....not much to gain for the $$.
Good move skipping on a r50 with a poor history....
I found a fairly clean 92k mile '06. Careful inspection revealed mushroomed left shock tower. The car has brand new tires, new battery, great price, but a freeway jaunt revealed that I couldn't handle driving this car for much more than 10 miles at over 60 mph. It would react unfavorably to expansion joints, dips and bumps. It sounded like it had a box of tools in the back seat and trunk. Lots of shakes, rattles, clunks, pulls not to mention a constant drone of wind noise/ motor or exhaust noise that made driving at 65-70 most uncomfortable. I'm thinking all these issues are this particular car specific and no way reflect the year/model. The suspension did need attention though.
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