I'm sure the other side will break when the temp goes down within the next couple of days. Tomorrow it's off to the dealer so they can put on the next cable I will have to have replaced.

 

 

Interesting...so the actual release is at the inside handle, and the outside handle is cabled to that mechanism. I'd have thought that it'd be the other way around...

For whatever reason, I'd never considered that a cable was part of the works. Now, it all makes sense. Anyone doing a search on "cable" and "shifter" will find that MINIs have a similar problem with the gear shift cable mechanism. Moisture also gets into that cable and freezes. The general result is a shifter that won't shift, although I think that some people have ended up actually snapping the cable while trying to force the shifter while frozen. I'd thought that this was an early-build problem (similar to the problem where the business end of the MCS shift cable disconnected...and early recall), but recently someone with a 2004 reported the same issue.

Argggh. Once again, it's failure of the little details that'll drive you crazy.

 

>>Interesting...so the actual release is at the inside handle, and the outside handle is cabled to that mechanism. I'd have thought that it'd be the other way around...
>>
>>For whatever reason, I'd never considered that a cable was part of the works. Now, it all makes sense. Anyone doing a search on "cable" and "shifter" will find that MINIs have a similar problem with the gear shift cable mechanism. Moisture also gets into that cable and freezes. The general result is a shifter that won't shift, although I think that some people have ended up actually snapping the cable while trying to force the shifter while frozen. I'd thought that this was an early-build problem (similar to the problem where the business end of the MCS shift cable disconnected...and early recall), but recently someone with a 2004 reported the same issue.
>>
>>Argggh. Once again, it's failure of the little details that'll drive you crazy.

No, you've got it backwards. The outside handle is a few inches above the mechanism and, I believe, connected via a rod. The inside handle is cabled to the mechanism from about two feet away. The pics are of the inside handle twisted around backwards to reveal the cable connection.

Oddly enough, I could not detect any moisture inside the door or around the mechanism--even though all the trouble initially started with the door freezing shut, then open, and then the handles going through various states of working or not working. I also never pulled on the inside handle very hard and am not certain of when the cable actually broke.

I'm sure the shifter will freeze tomorrow before the car's vet appointment.

 

F'! Here's one for you. When I pull once, the door unlocks, when I pull twice, nothing. So I don't think that the cable is busted, but something definitely ain't right...

Hate to say this, but I'm getting totally fed up with all of the problems. I love this car, but I truly hate it at times. Wonder if its time to sell her? Not happy, first ever brand new car is turning into a piece of crap. Thanks BMW!

 

Are you in a cold region? It my -12 at my house this morning. Is there moisture in the mechanism?

 

You might want to yank the door panel and take a look.

 

Yup, in CT. It was around -20 (with wind chill) this AM. In any case, whatever was the problem is has stopped (for the time being at least). My door opened perfectly fine when I went to lunch... must've been moisture. Still a pain in the "dupa"

 

Hey,

My problem with my door began last summer. For two months I was unable to open my driver's side door. After three trips to the dealer and a month waiting between the 2nd and 3rd visit, they fixed it. The average temp. in Tennessee during the summer is H-O-T!!!

Although I love the design of my Mini, I have begun to feel like it's time to look around....the 05' stang is really getting a lot of attention.

Jim

 

It's a Bowden Cable 51 217 042 905

Nice write up and great pics, there may be many more of us that will need to replace this part over the length of ownership (outside of warranty). I think sugar also had the same problem, although since they are in AZ, it wouldn't be weather related. Good luck with the repair

 

Where did you get that program? Is it isoed somewhere? Can I have it?

 

I got it from a friend, there are a few other friends out there that also have it and probably more everyday.

It's a 3 disk set:
The ETK (Electronic Parts Catalog)
The KSD (Customer Service Desk)
The TIS (Technical Information System)

My copy is rather old (3/2002), but my car is a July 02 build so it fits, almost.

PM if you have any other ???s

 

I have posted this several times, but the problem with getting out of a frozen MINI has to do with the outer door handle, and after seeing the diagram most likely the outer door handle bowden cable. It is sticking (frozen) and the problem is triggered when you press the outer door handle button tho get into the car. The button springs back but I would guess the cable does not. THE ANSWER TO GET OUT OF THE CAR IS THIS: reach outside the open window and warm up the outer door handle, you may hear an audilbe click when the cable snaps back into place and then the door will open. Using this method you should never get stick in the MINI agian. I takes about 30 seconds for this to work.

 

It's 11F and the driver's side door handle depressed but did not unlatch the door. After climbing in through the passenger's side, the inside door handle would not unlatch the door either. In transit the driver's side door partially opened without warning on the interstate, requiring me to pull over, climb back out through the passenger's side, and push the driver's side door shut from the outside. (Still neither handle would unlatch the door.) After driving to work I had to use the mechanical release to get the hatch open. Nice job MINI.

 

This will fix you right up. I used it on the cables in the door when I replaced my door speakers. Also works great in the latch. * Well, if you have not broken the cable.

3M™ White Grease (Lithium Lube)


http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beGSGRCGLTDBgl

 

I used another brand of lithium lubricant after my cable snapped the first time. The cable will probably snap as soon as the mechanism starts working again.

 

It may if it is currently frozen or you only have a few threads left. I did this as preventitive door cable maint. Since I have seen this issue listed on the NAM before. I SEARCH and read more than I post so I do not ask the same question that has been answered 1 Billion times.