R50/53 TORX bits worth investing in...?
TORX bits worth investing in...?
I noticed a lot of pieces in the MINI require TORX bits to remove
(why cant everything be philips and flat lol) And not everyone has torx bits!
Generally speaking, what should I look for when shopping for a set of torx bits?
(why cant everything be philips and flat lol) And not everyone has torx bits! Generally speaking, what should I look for when shopping for a set of torx bits?
Last edited by Un0RiGiNaL; Feb 4, 2010 at 11:31 AM.
Sweet! added to the list.
Not that much, maybe 17 or so.
I just got a 12pcs set from 10T to 55T and it has bit adapters for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. And for small stuff I got a T8-T40 swiss army type set at Auto Zone for $8.99.
I stand corrected maybe there is over 20 sizes.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ewdrivers.html
I just got a 12pcs set from 10T to 55T and it has bit adapters for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. And for small stuff I got a T8-T40 swiss army type set at Auto Zone for $8.99.
I stand corrected maybe there is over 20 sizes.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ewdrivers.html
You need Torx to change the engine air filter, and also to remove the seat rails from the floor. I think that the screws that affix the trunk latch to the floor (not the part in the hatch) are Torx also. Sorry, don't recall any of the sizes though.
Like the poster above, I bought a set of the larger sizes to go on my ratchet, and then a folding set of the smaller sizes. This has covered all of my needs so far.
Like the poster above, I bought a set of the larger sizes to go on my ratchet, and then a folding set of the smaller sizes. This has covered all of my needs so far.
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For those who are up for the challenge - you need a T-30 to remove the power steering pump from the anti-vibration bracket... if that is the only tool you do not have, the job becomes much more difficult.

i thought Torx bits were expensive bits that you had to buy separately I didnt know theres a whole set of all the bits.
Ten bucks at Harbor Freight will meet 95% of your needs . . . or more
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91238
or $30 at lowes http://www.lowes.com/pd_90731-1074-2...=torx$y=9$x=33
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91238
or $30 at lowes http://www.lowes.com/pd_90731-1074-2...=torx$y=9$x=33
Ten bucks at Harbor Freight will meet 95% of your needs . . . or more
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91238
or $30 at lowes http://www.lowes.com/pd_90731-1074-2...=torx$y=9$x=33
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91238
or $30 at lowes http://www.lowes.com/pd_90731-1074-2...=torx$y=9$x=33
I have a Craftsman 7 pc., 1/4 and 3/8 in. drive Torx® bit socket set. Includes three 1/4 in. sizes ( T15, T20, T25), four 3/8 in. sizes (T30, T40, T45 and T50). Then a simple Torx bit set ranging from T1 to T10. So I'm only missing T27, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100. Never ran into those sizes on the car.
With that said - I started off with a cheap screwdriver torx set. You can accomplish a lot of stuff (dash and trim panels) with one of these. Later, I upgraded to a socket set for things like seat belt anchors, seat mounts, power steering pump, body panels, etc.
There are 20% off coupons in several car mags every month. I'm waiting, with coupon in hand, for one of the higher quality aluminum racing jacks to go on sale again...
Craftman set here and with lifetime warranty can't go wrong. Have used warrenty trying to remove torx bolt that holds rotor on
. Shattered but it could have been the 1/2 inch impact gun attached to at the time
.
. Shattered but it could have been the 1/2 inch impact gun attached to at the time
.
I have the jack, it is decent... my only complaint is the roller got stuck. I took it off and noticed something had gotten in and gouged the metal causing a ridge. I ground it down and greased the crap out of it... works well ever since.
The only other vehicle I've ever seen with so many torx fasteners was a Jeep. It took me a while, but I grew to like these fasteners as they don't seem to strip nearly as easily as a phillips or slotted fastener (assuming you use the correct torx driver). I've been amazed at the rusty torx fasteners that I've been able to remove w/o having the head strip.
Buy a T-50 at Sears (for the brakes), make sure it says Craftsman on it (lifetime warranty) so you can exchange it when you twist or snap it - all the rest of mine are for 1/4 socket (bit driver) or "swiss army" set (always in the glovebox)...
Because Phillips and Standard head bolts and screws tend to strip or cam out when you apply a good amount of torque on them. Cam out means that the driver forces itself out of the head once a particular torque is reached. Phillips drivers actually do this by design. Torx drivers are designed to apply consistent torque to a bolt without driving itself out of the bolt.
Torx bolts are also nice because they can dimensionally fit in places where a hex head is too large. The cabrio braces are a good example.
As far as what to look for.. You can usually find a set of male and female assortments from T10 to T50 at any decent hardware store or online.
Anything made by SK, Craftsman, Snap-On, MAC Tools. All of these brands should have a lifetime guarantee.
here's a shot of my Torx drawer at work.





