Ok.... At first I was very pleased with myself; now I'm just a bit confused.

I bought my '05 MCSa back in June; it's been well-kept and is *almost* stock (previous owners replaced the original S-Spoke wheels with S-Winders, and added cabrio diagonal braces) @ 52k miles.

The S will be used strictly as a street car: no autocross, no track. I do a fair amount of city driving, with some highways/backroads mixed in. My wife and I both enjoy spirited driving, but I'm basically looking to improve the overall efficiency of the stock setup.

So, I thought I'd done my due diligence reading through numerous threads on NAM and elsewhere, and came up with what I thought was a pretty striaghtforward and well-prioritized list of mods to begin come springtime as finances allow.

So I take my MINI in to the local MINI guru (henceforth "LMG") the other day to introduce the two. This guy has owned and worked on on MINIs for some time and is quite well-respected in the local MINI community. However, in reviewing my plan he mentioned a couple of things that got me to second-guess myself and the advice I've gleaned from other experts.

I realize that everyone has his/her own opinion, of course, and that what is "right" for one individual may not be "right" for another. I also know enough to respect the informed opinions of those more knowledgable than myself. However when the informed opinions conflict with each other, I feel like I'm back to square one.

So, here's what I had been thinking:

Tier 1 mods:
- New all-season tires: The current Goodyear runflats are due to be replaced, and I'll probably replace these with non-runflat Potenzas. (I picked up a set of Blizzaks for the winter.)

- Fixed camber plates: My primary rationale for the camber plates is to pre-empt strut tower mushrooming. That they would slightly reduce understeer and improve tread life on the front tires would be a bonus. This would seem like a no-brainer...

- Craven STDs: Would probably be redundant if I go with the camber plates, but I may go with these sooner rather than later anyway as local road conditions make me nervous.

Tier 2:
- SC pulley reduction: This seems to be the #1 bang/buck mod and a relative no-brainer. I had initially thought to keep conservative with a 15% reduction, but since I rarely see the upper reaches of my tach LMG helped persuade me that 17% would actually seem a better fit. Naturally I'd go to a shorter belt, and would probably replace the spark plugs with a set of Brisk Lambos while I was at it.

Tier 3:
- Upgrading to stainless steel brake lines: Another seeming no-brainer, though there's not any particular rush on these.

- Upgrading front brake pads: No rush on this, but would like to upgrade to something that generates a little less dust whent he time comes for replacement. The Carbotech Bobcats seem to come well-recommended. I'd also plan to upgrade the rear pads when time comes to replace them.

- Shock absorbers: It will be interesting to see what difference non-runflat tires make, but LMG also suggested the original shocks will probably be due for replacement soon. The Koni FSDs seem to come highly recommended and sound ideal for my driving circumstances. The FSD/Ireland camber plate combo also seems not uncommon.

- CAI: I'm torn between the JCW intake and the Dinan. JCW is quite a bit more expensive, but seems to be a less-invasive install than the Dinan (swapping the in the JCW cowl partition for the original rather than cutting a hole through the original partition. If I go the JCW route, I'd plan on upgrading to the Madness filter at some point.

Tier 4 -- where the marginal improvemets may not be worth the expense:
- Hood scoop: The M7 Ram hood scoop/stock IC combo comes recommended, but might be overkill for my circumstances.

- Intercooler diverter: Thinking about the DDM intercooler diverter, but may also be overkill

- JCW 380cc fuel injectors: Seems to be recommended by those running the 17% pulley reduction (also recommended replacing the fuel pressure regulator at the same time)

- Stratmosphere catback exhaust: Total bling!

LMG suggested that there are a couple of immediate maintenance issues to deal with first: specifically replacing the worn control arm and trailing arm bushings. Knock on wood that nothing else drastic needs to be taken care of.

LMG thought that upgrading the CAI before the pulley reduction would be the way to go -- the stock air box being pretty much "maxed out" -- and recommended the Dinan or Promini airbox over JCW (which he says "sucks"). I recently e-mailed him asking for a little more clarification on why he prefers the Dinan or Promini to JCW, but haven't heard back yet.

LMG also came down strongly against the camber plates saying that the negative camber actually increases the tread wear on the inside edge of the tires -- completely contrary to what Matt Richter says in his MC2 suspension basics article. So, I went out to see what was actually happening on my own car (sans camber plates at the moment), and it does seem like the outside of the tires wears more quickly than the inside. (Oddly, the rear tires were considerably more worn in general, suggesting they had spent quite a bit of time on the front end of the car before being rotated.) I also asked about this in my e-mail.

LMG proposed an alternative setup of a rear anti-sway bar and M7 strut-tower brace -- the combination of which would not only seem more expensive than the camber plates, but each component also seems prone to its own issues (at least based on my reading here).

Finally, LMG didn't dismiss outright the idea of the FSDs, but suggested I consider sticking with the OEM MINI shocks. There was also the suggestion of running Koni Yellows on the softest setting, as some people find the FSDs a little "bouncy". The FSDs and Yellows seem to be a wash cost-wise, and only marginally more expensive than the OEM shocks (at least from what I've found).

So, bottom line: I trust and respect the opinions of both LMG and the other experts, but since I'm getting conflicting advice I'm not sure where to begin. So -- to make matters worse -- does anyone else have any suggestions?

 

I don't see anything wrong with your list.

I would add front bushings and only do the 15% pulley.

For brakes I use the Porterfield R4-S pads and love them. Very little dust and great performance.

I did the Fixed camber plates with Koni sports and the front control arm bushings and the difference was huge.

I also use a Pilot Exalto PE2 tire which is working well but next time I'll go with a more performance tire like the Potenza RE-11.

This is my wife's DD and she loves it. I have the Koni's set about midway with stock springs.

 

Hi. A lot of questions here. Your LMG seems to be ok. One thing I differ from him is, I would do the pulley first. You are correct in that it is the biggest bang for the buck. There is negliable differences between CAI's. None do what the manufactures say. About the 380's, I really don't think you need them yet. The only power mod you are doing is the pulley, so I think you are fine. What you need to do is get a custom tune, then you would be able to utilize different injectors. I think you are on the right path with your suspension mods. I see no problem with the camber plates. The combo of camber plates and the strut plates is the best way to go. With the M7 you have the option of adding the strut bar too. About the struts, you didn't mention lowering your car? If you do make sure you use the correct strut, of the two you mentioned, one is not recommended on lowered cars, can't remember which one? I think you know what's best for you, you are on the right path.

 

Thanks to both for the prompt feedback already!

Re: lowering -- I've got no plans to lower, but from what I've read the FSDs don't take too kindly to it.

Re: the M7 strut plates -- I'm not sure I need/want the brace, which seems to be the only advantage of the M7 design. As far as plates themselves go, the Craven STDs seem to be a more robust design -- there seems to be some question as to whether the M7 SRPs actually do prevent mushrooming -- and don't have poorly-milled edges that cut through the bonnet-release cables, as has been reported with the M7s.

 

Sounds like a great project, I am a novice when it comes to Mini but I learn quick. The advice you got in reference to pulley set up< i had the 15% and it was great and is more friendly to your supercharger, Koni, just installed on my car but am waiting on other parts so do not have opinion yet, curios as to time frame your modes took?


Thx...Bad Mini

 

I think we have the same shop, and so far I can say LMG will not lead you down the wrong path. The dinian cai intake has had a price cut...was my first performance mod. It looks nice, and added a good amount of power.... For a cai, without adding too much noise. Simple install, looks stock, and it is an ingenios piece of Desgin work IMO.
I debated the 15 vs 17 for a long time. I am not planning on tracking my car, ang generaly drive with rpm's well below redline, so after a discussion with a few people, I decided the 17 was the way to go. Do youself a favor...spend 20$ and get a tennisoner stop...the cable kind does not make any noise...and can save you big $$$ if you belt ever breaks.
I did the Std's a few years ago, they are cheap inssurance, but a full strut bar if you get camber plates maybe a better option. If you are not tracking you car camber plates may be overkill, and some people report more noise with them. You can use the new undertower defenders with the STD's...for the same effect.
Like you I am looking to a cat back, and the stratos/milteck is my #1 choice. I have heard lots of good things about it...both in workmanship and sound.
I have been think of getting the DDM intercooler diverter, it is very nice, but not sure if it will really do very much either.
So far, against all odds the 380' injectors, with out the regulator, is in a word great. I would have thought they would have needed a tune, but heck, my car is running great!!
I would recommend you do the CAI First....and help your car breath better.....before you do the pulley. It is enough of a change IMO to make you smile.....and feed you desire for more!!
Good luck....and hope to hear more!!

 

Bad Mini --

I've not done anything yet; this is all prospective.

The bushings should probably be done soon, before winter. I'm thinking I should probably do the Craven STDs before winter, too, but I've been holding off while I dither about the camber plates.

Some sort of strut protection will happen early spring (pothole season) at the latest.

Everything else will follow as finances permit.... I'm not in any rush, but I do want to make sure my overall gameplan is sound before I start making changes.

 

Zippy:

Heh.... I was trying to be *somewhat* discrete. I don't want to come across as being disrespectful of LMG's wisdom.

+1 on the tensioner stop. It's definitely on my list, but I figured it was so obvious it wasn't worth mentioning here.

The only thing that makes me nervous about the Dinan CAI is the amount of "sugery" required to install. Something about cutting through the cowl makes me uneasy. (Similiar thought process vis-a-vis the one-ball mod.)

With JCW you actually get a modified cowl partition that swaps in for the original. I presume it would be possible to get an OEM R53 cowl partion to keep on hand in case I ever decided to revert to stock intake from the Dinan, but then the cost would probably be comparable to the JCW in the first place.

Anywho, since the CAI seems to be recommended Step 1, getting this sorted out in my mind will be good progress!

 

No worries...if you posted this on mmc LMG would love it even more!! Honest....no worries he is a stright shooter....and he knows it is your money. Just be honest about what you want, and he will give pretty good advise. And for the record, he never even mention the Dinian intake to me, and I told him I might get a JCW, and he said he has removed a bunch to replace with alta's, etc. I'm sure he will give you a panel he has removed from another car for free if you are having him do a bunch of work!!
Sorry about outing ya, but honest, we all have similar goals, and in general look at similar infoto make our choices.

 

Hmm.... I'd be interested to hear what that was all about, whether folks were just looking for something louder than JCW or what.

Excellent idea.... I hadn't even thought of that!

 

the key to the camber plates and tire wear is to rotate the tires at least every 5K to ensure the tires don't wear odd.

 

pulley,tires,sway bar,tune......all a must, imo

 

Big fan of the Ireland fixed camber plates w/FSDs and front control arm bushings.

Also a big fan of the JCW airbox. It's all what you're looking for. If you want more noise, get an Alta or DDM. If you want quiet when cruising and more sound when on the throttle, then JCW. Dinan is kinda in the middle. I started with a Dinan and went to JCW intake because my car whistles like a teakettle at part throttle - the JCW masks that symptom.

IMHO you don't need strut tower plates w/ the camber plates. The camber plates are plenty strong to prevent mushrooming.

17% pulley for the auto is the right mod for a street car. Wish I had done that instead of my 15%

 

The list seems to be mostly the norm. A few items just due to opinion and experience(wasted money).

FWIW, everyone says good things about the FSD's except the people I've known that had them.....

For what you are doing the putting a decent filter element in the stock box is probably fine, otherwise they are all going to do what you want. Can't really see how the JCW sucks over the others, seems to be a statement that would throw up a red flag.

Do the pulley first whichever you choose.

The strut bars don't help as much as an under-body brace from say TSW.

Lastly, the camber plates are a better mod than the rear bar IMO. In general, toe eats tires, not camber. Many of us have been running 2.5 degrees negative in front and 1.5 or so out back and with regular rotation there is no inside edge wear. Find a good alignment shop, not someone "can do one for you", you'll be happier and save money in the long run.
In hindsight, I'd never have put the rear sway bar on my car as the balance was great before, just not as good now.

Good luck and have fun playing with the car.

 

I'd say to go for adjustable camber plates. Not all cars have matching camber on both sides from manufacturing variances or past pot holes. Having the adjustable plates lets the shop dial in even camber on both sides, and to compensate for future impacts.

 

If you have dedicated snow tires there is no reason to get all seasons as well. GET SUMMER TIRES, you will love them, best mod I have done to my car. I'm in CT and ran them through the whole summer and still have them on now (getting snows Friday) and had no issues at all, the extra grip was very confidence inspiring. The whole "summer tires are useless below 45 degrees" is a bit overblown IMO. So long as you dont have snow on the ground and it is at least in the 40s it will be fine.

 

Naww...Maybe I phrased it wrong in a rush, what he was just saying that the filters are very pricey, and if you do the flap removal trick to make more noise/flow more air, you might as well start out with with something cheaper with more noise...and perhaps more bling ....Sort of like the advise on getting the 17%.....many of the 15% owners have gone to 17%, but not the other way around...so buy the part and labor ONE TIME, and don't redo it.
I did the Dinan as a compromise...cheaper than JCW, a tiny bit louder,(barely noticeable at highway speeds) but very nice OEM look, but still some thrill of a bit more noise during higher RPM driving. Overall it is a very livable unit, and Minspeed sells an ITG filter for it, and there is a Universal one from K&N also. No whistle noted, a noted problem with the ALTA's, etc....the only negative is a noise at 3300 rpm at very light throttle....not really a whistle, maybe almost a slight hum? (can you tell i really like it!!)
I did have worries about cutting the panel....but the simple fact is when you mod, you can never really go back to a totally stock car, (the pulley cannot be undone) so as far as I was concerned if it was a good quality, good looking unit (that did not look like it was built is a high-school metal shop), then it would be a plus, as it would add value in the long-term.

The LMG actually encouraged me to DIY a few of my projects, saving me the drive.....and I think THAT says alot about the honesty and intent of a guy who is basically selling just the labor for the installs, as he does not really stock mod parts.

PS-when you put the new tires on, you will be amazed!! Your car will handle better and be more quiet!! You will wonder why you waited so long.

Good Luck, and most of all have a BLAST!!

 

Technically true - but at most you're off by a couple of tenths of a degree left to right - and no normal person can actually discern that small of a difference except by reading the numbers on the machine... mine's about -1.8 on one side and about -1.6 on the other... makes no difference.

 

Thanks again, Zippy -- and to everyone else who has weighed in so far.

Zip -- you certainly make the Dinan sound tempting!

LMG's integrity is definitely not in question, that's for sure -- and I certainly hope I didn't imply otherwise.

In fact, that's probably part of the problem.... If I didn't trust his expertise and experience, I don't think I'd be in this quandary.

 

Has anybody tried the new(ish) under tower defender thinggys that craven sells that can be used in conjuction with their Std's? Its seems they might do what you are trying to accomplish....but I don't think it is adjustable like camber plates.
One cheap mod I'm just getting around to trying is adding the cabrio front struts to my car. Generaly it gets ok reviews on stiffing things up...pretty good deal for $45.00 from the sound of it. Minor improvent...Minor price.

 

The Under Tower Indurators? (STDs, UTIs -- these Craven guys have some serious fun naming their products!)

I had thought about going that route at one point, since strut tower reinforcement on the "under" side (e.g., UTIs or camber plates) should be more effective than "top" side reinforcement (i.e., either M7 SRPs or Craven STDs). But as someone pointed out on another thread (don't remember where or who exactly), if you're going to go to all the trouble of installing the UTIs, you may as well go with the camber plates (either fixed camber or adjustable).

Added to that, the UTIs -- on any other "bottom-side" reinforcement -- will change the front suspension geometry somewhat by adding height that will net positive camber. This should be somewhat mitigated by a negative camber plate, such as Ireland.

Again, this is all from memory off the top of my head, so I can't vouch for complete accuracy.

As for the cabrio braces, LMG was actually the one who spotted that a kind-hearted and forward-thinking previous owner had installed these on my R53. (Hey, what do I know from stock?) So, I can't say how they might *improve* front-end stiffness, but I'm pleased with my setup and certainly see no reason to remove them. For $45, you can't really go wrong.

 

Actually, it was the Madness Strut Tower Reinforcements that I was thinking of specifically, rather than the Craven UTIs.

Anyhow, this thread has a wealth of information on all of the above.

 

Cool name for your car.
Any updates?

 

Heh; glad you like MINIKINS' name -- but I really can't claim any credit for it.

Re: mods -- sort of in a holding pattern for now; got some home maintenance/repair stuff that's moved to the top of the priority list so "fun" stuff like MINI mods will have to wait a bit. (Still need to deal w. the CA/TA bushings, etc., at some point, and new tires come spring.)

I've been mulling things over, however, and really feel pretty comfortable with the original plan starting with the camber plates, and going from there as finances permit. I'm also thinking I'll hold out for a JCW airbox when time comes for that, but given the cost, the pulley reduction may come first (especially as the belt is likely due for a change anyway -- I forgot to ask LMG about that).

I'm particuarly nervous about mushrooming as I dart about town trying to avoid things that go "bump" in the night -- or at any other time. I was this close to picking up a set of Craven STDs the other day as a stop-gap until I can get the camber plates, but held off... thinking I may as well put the $130 towards the plates.... Then again, those potholes, etc., really make me nervous....

So, still on hold for the time being; I'll definitely keep you all posted when something finally happens!

 

Look at it this way...you got your car used....and if they have not mushroomed yet, you should be ok if you avoid the huge potholes. When I got mine, they said they might not be needed since I have 16" rims, and most dammage had happened to cars with 17+ rims. Key word... Most.
IMO unless you have an alighnment issue where you need to adjust the camber, I would put in the STD's, and put the plates on the later wish list. If you are 100% certain you are getting them, then by doing it now saves you 139$ plus shipping...pretty good sale!!
I know all about the holding pattern thing.... I held off on doing all of my performance mods till this past summer....the last few years I have just been reading, learning, and playing the pro's and con's of varis mods in my head.