Finally getting around to installing a skid plate on my 02 MCS.
Bought Skid Plate years ago...

Bought stainless steel bolts for the install, same length as the ones that came in the box,
BUT I can't get the bolts into the factory threaded holes very far, the threads are very tight and the stupid hex head is hard to tighten.
I sprayed WD40 into the holes to try and clean, but I still can't get the bolts in.
I haven't tried actually installing the skid plate yet, I've been using the zinc bolts came with package to try and get the threads clean.

How far do the bolts go in with the skid plate mounted, pretty much all the way? I think I'll try getting regular bolts or torx bolts to get more torque on them, which is better, torx or regular bolt heads?

Help! thanks...
(PS my internet connection has been down lately, so I apologize if I don't respond quickly)

 

I'm guessing what you are up against is corrosion in those holes. If you just try to muscle those bolts in there they are possibly going to break. You need to clean out the bolt holes so the bolts can go in there easily. You need a tap to clean the treads out or you can take a bolt of the correct size & cut a notch in the threaded end. Thread it in until it gets tight & them back it out. Clean the crud off & do it again. It may take a while, but it will work. Put some grease on the bolt to hold any chips & to act as a lubricant. When everything is cleaned out use some blue loctite on the bolts.

 

+1 on using a tap set. I do it each time I re-install my skid plate and have never had a problem getting the bolts (SS hex head) to thread in completely.

 

Experienced similarities with my 05/2002 S skid plate install. Three of the four bolts holes were very snug after turning the bolts for 3/5 turns. After chasing the holes with a tap and cutting fluid the bolts went in butter smooth. You may have some corrosion by now but I was confronted with factory undercoating. Take your time and a chaser tap will cut through both. The bolts supplied with my kit were button-head stainless, and if you were to switch to that type bolt, anti-seize would be recommended over blue loctite.

 

The bolts supplied with earlier kits were not stainless. Would suggest you head on over to Ace Hardware and get stainless or at least corosion resistant bolts - and while you're there get HEX HEAD, instead of those solly allen-head bolts that corrode, collect gunk, and can strip out. I used a spacer washer on mine instead of shorter bolts, but either is an option. Those holes corrode and collect road gunk - but you don't need to have 1/2" of bolt inside the hole to hold the skidplate on either.. Oh - goes without saying to lube the bolts with some grease before installing - helps forestall additional corrosion (while the bolts may be stainless, the chassis isn't).

 

Picked up the ss allen bolts but yeah DixonL2, think I'll get the hex heads instead...I can see me striping the allens and THEN what...
I never have used a tap before...tme for a new tool I guess (oh darn)

I was hoping the thing would go on easier...I've waited this many years to put it on, now it summer...maybe I'll wait till fall....
any ways thanks for the tips, now I know how to get it done.

 

I have used PB Blaster spraying in the holes to "clean them out" prior to putting the bolts in. They seemed like they were cross threading until i hit them with the PB. Hope this may help you or someone.

 

Where do you get a skid plate, i feel like i need one, and what all does it protect?

 

Here's where I bought mine:

http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...21&SortOrder=1

Note how much more lower engine bay area is protected than with OEM:

 

Also, the OEM is just plastic. The skidplate is pretty stiff aluminum. While it won't support the car on top of a rock while offroading (how many of us do that?), it'll give some pretty substantial protection!

 

My factory underbody panel was scraped up badly by the previous owner due to a sharp driveway so he told me he discarded it. I have bought the Cobalt plate from Moss to replace it. I haven't got it mounted yet.

Sounds like you guys have had plenty of experience with this plate. I have a couple of questions... Is the oil drain plug still accessible?

And... because my plate was not there, neither were the fasteners. I took a my best shot at selecting the fasteners on RealOEM.com, here is what I came up with.

(2) Quick Release Screw PN: 07147177492
(2) Circlip PN: 51718212163
(3) Body Nut PN: 64500630991
(3) Fillister Head Screw PN: 07131484155

I still have two body nuts in the front bumper cover but I went ahead and got three, third was missing.

The fillister heads are the ones I'm not sure of. Diagrams are a bit hard to decipher.

How close was I?

Thanks for any help.

 

First answer, yes you can get to the drain plug with no problem.

As far as what the hardware you bought, well I don't have a clue if that is right. I'd call classic MINI parts & ask them what you need. They are most helpful & will be able to confirm if those are correct.

One caution, DON"T use the hardware that comes with the skid plate. It is low quality & will corrode. If you ever want to remove that plate again get stainless steel bolts.

My plate is held with 3 bolts at the front, 2 Uncle Fester headed fasteners at each side & 4 stainless bolts at the rear.

 

Thanks for the response Crashton.

Headed to the hardware store to replace the supplied bolts tonight.

I went ahead and got the fasteners listed above from Roadshow Mini in Memphis. Wifey will pick them up tomorrow while she's up that way on biz.

I'm in this LONG distance relationship with the dealer so I figured I'd give it a shot while I had the chance.

Let y'all know how it goes.

 

I bought my skidplate to protect the sump from ice burgs in the winter. What do you need one in Mississippi for, armadillos?

If you need MINI parts Classic MINI in Ohio gives a nice NAM discount. By the way welcome to NAM & MINI ownership.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/classicauto

 

Close... Possum deflector...

I just wasn't pleased that no plate was there so I wanted to fill the gap with something better.

Thanks for the welcome and how do I apply for the Old Fart Motoring Club?

 

I got the hardware from Roadshow yesterday (I still have to get replacement stainless). Now I'm itching to get under there and see what I can figure out.

 

Be certain to use some type of anti-seize on the threads.

If the skid plate came with those dreaded stainless-steel, socket-head/allen bolts, throw them as far away from your car as possible and use a proper bolt with a split lock-washer. Bolts that you find at most stores are too long. I used to cut them to length until I bought a bag of bolts from theboltdepot.com that are the correct length. These are also coated for rust resistance, so stainless is not really necessary (I have a crap-load left over, if anyone needs any...).

The threads are not very deep, but a normal tap from a standard metric set should work. I've taken to trying a thread-cleaner tap (set sold by Sears) first, and then going to the tap if that doesn't work. Less likely to remove metal that way.

Be certain to use some type of anti-seize on the threads. (trust me - I'm not kidding around here... )

 

I also found a PVC version of a skid plate here and am wondering if anybody has installed one and would do a review on this one. It's plastic so should be lighter than the aluminum one.

http://minibeotch.com/skid-plate.html

 

First thing... Crashton, Thanks for the stickerz. I owe you.

Changed my rattling PS fan and made an attempt at installing the plate. I had the right quick connect fasteners for the middle and the four new stainless bolts went right into the rear threaded holes, no problem. On the front at the bumper, I had the wrong hardware. The "screws" threaded into the body nuts but once I tried to really tighten up on them they would just slip the thread and not tighten.

I'm considering getting a hole saw of about 1" dia. and cutting a hole or maybe a slot right next to the existing slots for access above the plate. Then once the plate is in place I can use a wrench on some regular stainless hardware.

My plate did seem to interfere with one of the PS fan mounting bolts. I had to slightly bend the plate up to get the rear mounting bolts in place. Anybody else have to do this? I may get the plate in place again, and smack it on that spot with a dead blow hammer to mark the bolt location and cut a hole where the bolt hits so it can mount up flat with no tweaking.