R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Brake rotors

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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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05Greenie's Avatar
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Brake rotors

I am replacing the front and rear rotors this weekend and I was wondering if anyone knows the size of the torx screw that secures the rotors.

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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It's a Torx M10 x 13 torqued to 20 ft-lbs according to the Bentley service manual.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Thanks..if I were to buy a socket with the proper torx size bit I would look for the M10 x 13 size?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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I think you want a T50 torx bit. I know it doesn't make a lot of sense but from my understanding a T50 fits into a M10 screw. And looking at my set, that looks to be the right size. Hopefully the people at the tool store or someone here can confrim that.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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M10x13 means that bolt/thread size is 10mm by 13mm long.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 03:47 AM
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Yup, you want a T50, and a can of PB Blaster, and an 18" (at least) breaker bar.
reference the recent post "Gimme a brake".
Oh yeah, and beer!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 07:47 AM
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Thanks everyone. the local auto parts store has a T50.

Temperature this weeked in expected to be 80°, perfect weather for repairs and beers.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 08:22 AM
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I have never had to replace a torx bolt on any of the cars I have ever worked on. Just make sure to soak the bolt well and let it sit for a while.
And don't over tighten them when putting them back on. You really don't even need them, they are only there to keep the rotor in place while you attach the wheels.

Good luck!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:04 AM
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Also, a trick I learned to "wake up" a bolt is to insert the torx bit firmly into the bolt head (bit is off of the ratchet/breaker bar), then tap the bit once with a hammer or mallet. Obviously how hard you tap will be commensurate with the bolt size; it doesn't take much force. This will "wake up" the bolt plus tends to set the bit into the head if there is rust or gunk in there, gumming it up.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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Impact driver works great. Just hit it with a hammer.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Excellent advice from everyone. I have been studying my Haynes manual very carefully. Purchased the T50 torx bit, 18" breaker bar and the torque wrench is ready to go. Also bought new pads and I'm going to reuse the brake sensors. I'll let everyone know how I make out.

Thanks again for all the support.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:55 PM
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Careful, the little tabs on the brake sensor are easy to break.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 04:40 AM
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put a lil anti-seize on the back side of the rotor, the hub flange and the TORX when you re-assemble and have an easier time next time
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 05:41 AM
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I just did my brakes and had no problems with the torx bolt, no lube or breaker bar
 
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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Well, I hope it worked for you... My mechanically inclined co-worker and I went through three Torx 50 bits and three of the heads sheared off with a compressor driven gun... it was not a good day to say the least. Only one backed out after much effort.

Just use anti-seize compound on the new Torx screws when you install them so the next time they come off they come off easily.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 05:54 AM
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Ok everyone here is an update on my rotor/brake pad change out - Everything went very smooth. No issues with the torx screw, each one backed out nicely. Removed/installed the caliper bracket easily. I was very surprised how easy it really was. Reading the Hayes manual along with your suggestions I changed out all 4 wheels in 3.5hrs. Lil greenie runs very nicely, no more steering wheel wobble when applying the brakes.

I do have another question - is there a break in period? The brakes stop the car nicely, but it seems to take a bit longer than the original brake/rotor setup.

The original rotors did need to be changed, when I compared them to the new ones, the original rotors were noticeably thinner.

Thanks again everyone for all your suggestions and inputs.
You guys ROCK! Happy Motoring!!!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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you either need to 'bed the brakes' or 'drive carefully for the first 200 miles'

yes, there is a break in. bedding does it FAST but things can go wrong. drive carefully lets the natural use of the brakes wear thru the various coatings on the surfaces. some pads even include a special 'break in coating' ... even your owner's manual included this advice (drive carefully for a while) for your new car & its brakes
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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What is bedding?


Originally Posted by Capt_bj
you either need to 'bed the brakes' or 'drive carefully for the first 200 miles'

yes, there is a break in. bedding does it FAST but things can go wrong. drive carefully lets the natural use of the brakes wear thru the various coatings on the surfaces. some pads even include a special 'break in coating' ... even your owner's manual included this advice (drive carefully for a while) for your new car & its brakes
 
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 06:06 AM
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Bedding is where you make several hard brake moves to get them smoking hot. I usually do 6 60-10mph, then let them cool off. DO NOT go home and set your parking brake. That will warp them.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 07:39 AM
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Glad to hear the Torx backed out easily!
 
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