So I have a 2003 MCS and it has 62,000 miles on it. Unfortunately I love to drive it and have put more miles than I would like.

With the Economy/stock market the way it is and me being frugal my 2003 will probably be kept for quite a few more years than planned as my autocross car. I had planned on updating it to a 2006 before getting full into autocross and track days but not with accounts down so much.

Anyways what types of things need to be replaced as a car ages to keep it in top shape for autocross and track days? Other than the obvious brakes, clutch etc... I will soon be putting a rear sway bar and eventually springs. Then if I really decide to keep the car a while new clutch and LSD.

 

Big things are the flexible suspension and engine mount components - control arm bushings, engine mount bushings, etc. It's likely that these are already degraded on your car, at your mileage and age. It's also likely that your bypass valve will perform less well with time.... just had to replace mine at 47,000 miles, and I have several friends who have suffered BPV failures at similar mileage. A belt change would be smart at this mileage if you haven't done it already. Brake fluid - might be on your "obvious" list. Keep an eye on the bottom of the engine for any leaks - some of the gaskets can develop seepage as they age (oil pan, tranny, thermostat, etc.).

 

If you do springs might as well do struts/shocks at the same time too

 

I currently have a little over 20k miles on my SC belt. With my 15% pulley its changed about ever 30k miles. Luckily right before my warranty was up I had my front lower control arm bushing replaced.

I do need to replace my valve cover gasket. I have noticed a slight oil / dirt sludge around the valve cover. Is that a DIY job for someone who has tackled brakes?

It probably is time for a brake flush. Motul fluid was put in about 12 months and 4 autocrosses ago.

How do you tell if you BPV is going?

I think after dental school I will prophylactically have engine mounts/bushings replaced.

 

Oh - by the way - make sure you understand autocross classes and what impact various mods have on your ability to be competitive before you start making more changes... sometimes seemingly small changes can put you in a class where you're not likely to be competitive... unless you enjoy finishing toward the back of the field every time...

 

I'll add that to the list.

 

Sorry - we simulposted - so if you're on a 15% pulley, you're already in street mod class and not competitive, anyway.

Valve cover gasket is dead simple. Just make sure everything is very clean and nothing gets in there.

Bypass valve getting weak causes the car to "yo-yo" in the middle revs at partial throttle, makes it hard to hold boost steady around 4-5psi... total bypass failure causes the MCS to drive like a Cooper - with the valve always open and the car never making much if any boost. If the car doesn't seem to accelerate as crisply as it once did, you may benefit from a new BPV.

I just installed a Detroit Tuned modified BPV yesterday and like it.

 

Don't forget to replace the worn out Blinker Fluid....

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6

Seriously...

I'm sure I am seeing accelerated wear with the track days I often do. Once a year or ever 15K I've been doing the S/C Belt and Gear Oil. Oil and spark plugs about every 7k. At 37K where I am now I can feel bushings that are crying out to be replaced as well. Brake Fluid I flush about 3x a year as well.

I know of one MINI with just over 10K track only miles on it and the darn thing is falling apart. In the past year the CV joints went south, wheel bearings died, clutch gone, bushings are all worn and the engine popped once too. The car is driven hard and put away wet...so this is not surprising.

 

Thanks for the heartwarming story, Nate. I feel all warm and fuzzy inside about driving the poop outta my car now.

 

What about power steering fluid change/flush? Is that something you all do in your garage? Or would the average shade-tree-mechanic be better off taking it somewhere to have it done and then get pissed about how expensive it is?

I'm not exactly planning on driving the "poop" out of mine.....just the **** out of it But I feel like with such a quick ratio steering, it might benefit quite a bit from some synthetic power steering fluid.

 

k_h_d,

Auto-X is pretty mild on the car actually. I wouldn't worry about changing to a high temp fluid, just put in fresh stock fluid. It is not like being on the track where you would have repeated and heavy braking over longer periods of time. The stock fluid will handle the temps just fine. Putting in more aggressive pads would be a good idea, but again, you do not want high temp pads for the track which would never warm up during a 30 - 60 second run. You will need a pad that has a very aggressive initial bite.

Since you already have a pulley you will be in 'Street mod' class which has some very fast cars and tough competition. In order to finish closer to the front here are some things you will want to do; coil overs, buy the lightest 15"x7" rims with Hoosier A6 tires, larger rear anti-sway bar (19mm, 22mm solid or 25mm hollow), adjustable rear control arms, adjustable front camber plates. Some Schroth 4-point seatbelts will help to keep you solidly in your seat. Lighter seats, in fact anything to get weight out of the car would be good and allowed under 'street mod'.

Here is a link to what can be done;
http://www.sff.net/people/dburkhead/prepcompare.htm

Good luck, have fun.