video uploading now

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=CIMG1644.flv

 

yah, i think we would all rather not have to put a charger on a battery
if it wasn't for the drain, but real world condition mandates any
theory or math by some engineer in a lab. that is just the way it is.

 

These are very good for people that store cars or boats and such:


Solar Power Chargers for your 12V batteries and accessories. The Solar Power grab free “juice” from the sun! They extend the life of your 12V batteries, maintain the charge and allow you to run various electronics (deer feeders, landscaping pumps, etc.) from your batteries. Clean, silent operation comes with both cigarette lighter adapter and battery clamps. Compact and efficient, with bright LED charge indicator, and built-in blocking diodes to prevent discharge at night.

 

It seems there's some strange things going on with other folks cars, but you should be able to let a car sit at least a month or two without killing the battery, unless it's been modified somehow. If not, you should take it back in if it's still under warranty.
I park my cabrio for 3-4 months each winter, and run the top up and down for various reasons (and the top takes quite a bit of power), listen to the radio while cleaning, etc., and the original battery always starts it fine when needed.

 

Ok little update upon further troubleshooting...

When the car is off it sits around 12.5 volts, when its on at idle with no lights or a/c on or anything its around 14 volts, but its when its off and I go to start it.. During that 1-2 seconds it hesitates, it drops to like 8.5 to 9 volts, then goes up to 13-14 when it starts..

When you start the car, it shouldn't drop that low should it? Something is draining the battery when the ignition is cranked, most likely causing the hesitation.

Any ideas of what to try next?

 

Now, to give you some crap, if you'd bought "The art of Electronics" like I'd said oh so many months ago, you'd know that the places where there is drop is
1) The internal battery resistance.
2) Any poor connection or small cable that has a IR current drop, and
3) The load (in this case the starter).

So, it's dumping a bunch of current into the load (starter) before the starter moves? Either you have some bad connections (and remember, we're talking 100s of amps, so what seems good can dump a lot of power at very high current) or your starter is going. And this is only if there is no extra drag on the driveline/accesories. Did you take the belt off to see if everything spins well?

Also, you'd said that you hear a squeal when this happens. An excellent technique is to use some rubber tubing as a stethescope. Have someone sit in the car doing the starter thing, and find out EXACTLY where the squeal is coming from with the tube (if it's not obvious with just the hood up.)

Before you just go out and buy a starter, check ALL the high current connections you can, that they are not only tight, but clean as well. Sand or file surfaces to get good metal to metal contact. If anyone you know has a MCS as well, do the same measurement and see what their car does.

Lastly, if tracing stuff like this down is so bad that you want to sell your car (you mentioned throwing in the towel again), a modding life isn't for you. Save your money and pay someone who will give you a warranty to do the work. Stuff like this is par for the course and comes with the hobby.

Matt

 

I measured the voltage at the battery, jumper posts, and the stock volt meter i have located under the center stack.

all are in the same range as my post above yours (give or take a few tenths of a volt)

now, another thing to mention... the 1-2 second hesitation period when starting the car, sometimes you can hear it struggle a little more than other times.

when you can hear it struggling more, i notice once it finally starts, the gas, rpm, speedo, oil, etc needles will all go down like the car is OFF, and shake up and down (not all the way up and down, but theyll like vibrate in the OFF position) very fast for 1-2 seconds, then go to where they're supposed to be.

when the car hesitates, but not as much, the needles act normal.

something is drawing too much power, and sometimes its more than other times (when the needles flicker)

also, i have a small 2ch amp hooked up, only running at 8 ohm per channel to 2 6.5" speakers in the front doors, about 130-150w rms per channel, and when im idle with no a/c or headlights on, it floats around 14v as i said, and with the radio on about 75-80% out of 100% volume wise (before clipping/distortion) the voltage didnt even drop at all from 14v at idle.

so, as far as i can see, when running, whatever is drawing the extra current isnt doing so once its started. im leaning 90% towards the starter since this only happens when im trying to start it.

sorry for the long replies, im at work and i cant reply quickly.

i did already buy a used starter last night for $20 shipped on ebay, from an 02 wrecked cooper.

if its not the case, its only $20, and ill have a spare starter.

w00t 1400 posts

 

until you find that power drain, all the new starters in the world won't help you


why not take it in for a full diagnostic at the dealership...

 

mainly time, then im out a car, and i just started my new job so im currently BROKE until i get paid monday and start saving up money again...

i think with a little more troubleshooting, i can locate it.

 

a diagnostic is usually free, the estimate should be free..

otherwise have someone with a VAG-COM read your car and see if you've got a code anywhere

 

i see.

ill give them a call, maybe i can go by on Saturday morning if they're open...they should be open on the weekends right?

 

to see if they're open for diagnostics on the weekend. Many dealers aren't, it depends.

Matt

 

maybe the car lost its will to live

 

aw why do you say that?

 

pimped,
This problem is most likely the starter. BTDT. While diagnosing these problems thru cyberspace is next to impossible, only suggestions from the experiences of others can be made.
In this case I spent many hundreds of dollars chasing a hard start situation with my 82 KZ1000. The dealer replaced my brand new battery and the alternator. Tried yet another battery and push started it a LOT! It turned out to be a defective starter that had too high current draw due to worn bearings/brushes/commutator and who knows what else. The replacement fixed it up and is still good to this day.
I did not read every response to this thread so if this suggestion has been made then this shall provide reinforcement. Good luck in fixing your problem.

 

thats what im leaning at. my starter should be coming soon i hope.

 

Anytime I see that much torture at least the recipient has a safety word. What you got here is a silent victim with no way out

 

I still have my 2002 MCS original battery.

 

I'm new the the MCS venue, but not to modding. Someone please chime in if you can't do this on a SC'd car.

Have you pulled the belt and tried starting the car without it? If you're still getting your noise you can completely rule out the accessories...and the SC at that point.

I found this thread as my wife just called me from work with a dead battery...as in NO juice. Crossing my fingers it's just the battery...

 

as the water pump is driven off the belt.

Matt

 

Exactly. I've run a small block chevy for a few seconds with NO waterpump at all on it. Just shut it down as soon as you have your answer and before it starts to heat up much.

 

I have a 04 R53 and I have the exact same issue as your original post way back on page 1. I did take it to the dealer and they were not able to diagnose anything. My electrical went off, everything! The car didn't die, just lost all electrical. My car also starts hard or actually more slow than hard crank. I also notice that every once in awhile the speedo needle will jump when unlocking the doors using the switch.

The Mini dealer said the same thing to me "It must be your battery". I also have checked all positive and negative terminals for corrosion and tightness, but everything checked out OK, plus the dealer did the same thing.

Anyone else have this same issue?

 

it's the battery, stupid

 

okay, I don't know much about cars, but what you were describing sounds exactly like what happened with our Samurai. We thought the battery was going dead, so we replaced it...didn't solve the problem...came to find out it was the starter