Navigation & Audio Call me crazy: Nutty stereo upgrade via dealer (w/pics!)
As others have said 'Keep your head up!' Your car isn't simply having the HK pulled out and the DPSM installed. Your car has it all and while it was in the middle of having it's guts pulled out you added more to it. So patience is needed as the tech carefully puts it back together. :-) And when it's done, even MINI won't have a car quite like it!

Update: GOOD NEWS! (well, some...) The tech just called me a few minutes ago... he has figured out what the problem with the Bluetooth was. Turns out that the install instructions for the kit were incorrect with the colors of the wiring - he then looked at the schematic, noticed it was different, and went by that... and the Bluetooth is 100% operational again.
Not so great news on the DPSM. He put the new amp in... and the problem still occurs!
However, he noticed that the box for the new DPSM kit wasn't exactly new... it had been opened before - which leads him to believe that the amp inside may have been previously defective and returned as well.An interesting thing, however... he removed the amp from the internal mount and lay it onto the carpet, and the problem went away. With a little more troubleshooting, he has isolated it so that when the amp is installed onto the mount (and therefore grounded to the sheet metal), that it acts up. When it isn't grounded there, the problem goes away. He even replicated the problem when it was laying on the carpet by using a cable with alligator clips!
So... just in case it is another defective amp, he is going to ask the shop foreman to witness the problem himself (both with and without the alligator clip cable), and agree to order yet another DPSM kit to try a 3rd amp. He knows that without seeing it for himself, the foreman will get antsy about having ~$5000 worth of DPSM parts just sitting there with only 1 kit actually sold.
So the tale continues... but at least it's a sigh of relief about the Bluetooth no longer being an issue. Oh... that, and all of the labor for this DPSM troubleshooting will not be on my bill, because it's considered a warranty matter now.
An interesting thing, however... he removed the amp from the internal mount and lay it onto the carpet, and the problem went away. With a little more troubleshooting, he has isolated it so that when the amp is installed onto the mount (and therefore grounded to the sheet metal), that it acts up. When it isn't grounded there, the problem goes away. He even replicated the problem when it was laying on the carpet by using a cable with alligator clips!
Edit. In thinking about it if there is a systematic problem in how the two new harnesses are installed, the test I mentioned could show all the same result for all four speaker grounds but all could be wrong. I was thinking if one wire was off that the test would show one different result. If there's a config problem with the harness though they could all test the same and still be wrong. I'm betting on the speaker grounds somewhere in the loom being incorrectly grounded to CHASSIS ground and this shorting the amp ( or at least the amp outputs) when it's chassis is grounded to the car chassis.
Last edited by mmatarella; Oct 2, 2007 at 09:42 AM.
Yowza! Glad to see things are finally coming around for you, I'm exhausted and all I did was read the thread 
Glad to see that you've been able to keep your patience with the whole ordeal too! I can certainly understand where you're coming from with keeping everything done OEM and 'by the book'- I'm the same way. (Although, I think that somewhere around month two I would have started to consider Mini SA training... If you can move a datacenter, what's a box of wiring harnesses?
)

Glad to see that you've been able to keep your patience with the whole ordeal too! I can certainly understand where you're coming from with keeping everything done OEM and 'by the book'- I'm the same way. (Although, I think that somewhere around month two I would have started to consider Mini SA training... If you can move a datacenter, what's a box of wiring harnesses?
)
Last edited by nicknbecka; Oct 5, 2007 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Speeling
Well, I actually went there last night. Unfortunately not much more to report yet... last week the shop foreman looked at the car with the parts manager and both agreed that a 3rd DPSM amp was worth trying. I'm sure it has arrived by now, so hopefully I'll get a call soon with the results of that.
Other "progress" items... the passenger seat is installed now (so the car actually looks somewhat normal again), and I went ahead and synced my (replaced) cellphone successfully with the Bluetooth last night.
I'll post when I hear more... I'm just hoping the amp is the real fix, and they don't have to get a multimeter out to locate a wiring issue!
6 months and 1 week...
Other "progress" items... the passenger seat is installed now (so the car actually looks somewhat normal again), and I went ahead and synced my (replaced) cellphone successfully with the Bluetooth last night.
I'll post when I hear more... I'm just hoping the amp is the real fix, and they don't have to get a multimeter out to locate a wiring issue!
6 months and 1 week...
I'll have a beer in your honor tonight in hopes that will speed up the process.
Just got back from MoS. No major news, but the tech said that he did briefly try the newest (3rd) DPSM amp last Friday, and it seems to be working great... but he hasn't fully hooked it up and done a thorough test yet. He'll hopefully get to it tonight or tomorrow night (they're slammed with jobs lately) and he promised to call me when he had the results - good or bad.
6 months and two weeks as of tomorrow morning!
6 months and two weeks as of tomorrow morning!
Nope, no news is bad news... because good news would be me getting the car back. Don't worry, I'll definitely post once I do. 
Headed to MoS tonight, as is my Monday night ritual...

Headed to MoS tonight, as is my Monday night ritual...
Update: The mysterious problem persists. After the 3rd amp failed to resolve the issue, the tech has started trying other things. He even took another DPSM harness out and hooked it up (outside the panels) to see if it worked - nope. He's tried disconnecting control modules, removing interior panels... all kinds of stuff. To make matters worse, the problem only happens intermittently. Sometimes the system works perfectly for 20 or 30 minutes! Then he cycles power (turns key off and on), and it's back. Very strange.
He has a few more ideas though, like disconnecting the PFMs, and replacing the crossovers... so he's going to keep plugging away at it.
I'm just happy I'm not paying for this troubleshooting (warranty time). Sheesh.Don't jinx it now!
Yep - he has to pull it in and out of the service bay each time he works on it, because the bay is used by other techs during the day shift. So they are only very short drives, but it is getting started. He also hooks up a battery charger when he's doing a lot of testing.
He has a few more ideas though, like disconnecting the PFMs, and replacing the crossovers... so he's going to keep plugging away at it.

I'm just happy I'm not paying for this troubleshooting (warranty time). Sheesh.Don't jinx it now!
Yep - he has to pull it in and out of the service bay each time he works on it, because the bay is used by other techs during the day shift. So they are only very short drives, but it is getting started. He also hooks up a battery charger when he's doing a lot of testing.
it sounds very much like a short in the system. bad solder joint on the x-over board, etc. most amps will drive a dead short until they overheat and their thermal protection kicks in, so it would match your experience.
I agree with PGT. Either his new short-circuit theory, or the other short-to-chassis idea.
It also should be simple to prove.
Simply disconnect the plug at the DPSM, then do continuity check of each speaker wire to the vehicle chassis (all tests should be open-circuit of course).
And with a good meter, you can do resistance checks of each +/- speaker feed at the amp.
It also should be simple to prove.
Simply disconnect the plug at the DPSM, then do continuity check of each speaker wire to the vehicle chassis (all tests should be open-circuit of course).
And with a good meter, you can do resistance checks of each +/- speaker feed at the amp.
I agree with PGT. Either his new short-circuit theory, or the other short-to-chassis idea.
It also should be simple to prove.
Simply disconnect the plug at the DPSM, then do continuity check of each speaker wire to the vehicle chassis (all tests should be open-circuit of course).
And with a good meter, you can do resistance checks of each +/- speaker feed at the amp.
It also should be simple to prove.
Simply disconnect the plug at the DPSM, then do continuity check of each speaker wire to the vehicle chassis (all tests should be open-circuit of course).
And with a good meter, you can do resistance checks of each +/- speaker feed at the amp.


