Navigation & Audio R56 speaker replacement how-to
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, CA
For mine the back left speaker (6x9) has blue/black as positive and blue/brown as negative. Ive heard alot about the channel swap, would I benefit if I have 2 12 inch sbs running off the the rear speaker wire to my amp?
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
The main benefit from the channel swap is getting some bass from the rear speakers, which are better able to produce it than the smaller front speakers. With your subs, do need more bass from the rear? You are probably better off keeping a full range in your front speakers. I'd say skip the channel swap.
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
I just replaced the front stock speakers (non-HK) with Polk Audio DB6501 components, surface mounting the tweeters behind the upper stock grills. Following recommendations on this thread and elsewhere, I set the crossovers at -3 dB -- to avoid harsh treble. But I think I should have left the crossovers set at neutral. To get a natural sound, I had to crank the treble control on the headunit up to +10 and (surprisingly) reduce the bass -2. With no other mods, the sound is far better than the muddy stock speakers -- but I'm not satisfied. It can be still better.
For the rear, I WAS going to install the Polk Audio DB691 which were often recommended here. But the Crutchfield site says they won't fit models newer than 2008 (2009?), and Amazon agrees. Be sure to check fit before ordering!
After a good bit of internet research, I ordered a pair of Infinity REF-9603IX (6x9, 3-way). For now I'm leaving the Polk crossovers set at -3 dB because the Infinities will be adding treble, possibly making the -3 just right -- we'll see (or hear).
I want to avoid adding an amp, and these Infinities claim 94 dB sensitivity. No need to break windows. Once the weather warms up enough to work outside, I'll attempt the front/rear channel swap. Wish me luck! I'll let you know what happens.
For the rear, I WAS going to install the Polk Audio DB691 which were often recommended here. But the Crutchfield site says they won't fit models newer than 2008 (2009?), and Amazon agrees. Be sure to check fit before ordering!
After a good bit of internet research, I ordered a pair of Infinity REF-9603IX (6x9, 3-way). For now I'm leaving the Polk crossovers set at -3 dB because the Infinities will be adding treble, possibly making the -3 just right -- we'll see (or hear).
I want to avoid adding an amp, and these Infinities claim 94 dB sensitivity. No need to break windows. Once the weather warms up enough to work outside, I'll attempt the front/rear channel swap. Wish me luck! I'll let you know what happens.
Final Update: This is very very good: Channels swapped on an unseasonably warm day; rear speakers: Infinity REF-9603IX (6x9, 3-way); front speakers: Polk Audio DB6501 (components) with the crossovers set to neutral. Head unit bass set to -1, treble set to +1, fader favoring the front by +1. The sound is clear and natural, with bass I can feel without it overwhelming the rest. That's it. Project done. Motor on!
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, CA
Cigarette lighter fuse if you want to use that, it has a - and a + with a circle in between, 20a, maybe 42 or 44. You can also splice the positive wire of the lighter in the trunk. It turns on when engine is on
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 121
Likes: 2
From: Nashville, TX
Helpful PDF
For what it's worth, I did find this helpful PDF from Integral Audio with step by step instructions (with pics) for replacing speakers and amps in an R56.
I'm holding onto this doc for future reference!
http://www.integralaudio.com/install...SS630-USAM.pdf
I'm holding onto this doc for future reference!
http://www.integralaudio.com/install...SS630-USAM.pdf
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Dneal was this an R56 Mini? I am in the middle of swapping out the speakers on my R56 JCW with HiFi system to Infinity Reference speakers...trying to get the wiring correct so I don't damage anything. Thanks for your help!
Neutral
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
With the help of those who went before me in this forum (many thanks to all), I replaced the awful front speakers in my new 2010 convertible, and it made an amazing difference. I got brave enough to try the back speakers this weekend, and when I got the back panel off, was shocked to see 6.5" speakers mounted in a raised plastic shell (riveted in, no less) where I expected to find 6x9s.. Tried to find a way to un-rivet the awful stock speakers so that I could at least put in better 6.5"s, but gave up after 30 minutes and a beer.
It still sounds better than it did when it rolled off the lot - after only $150 of speakers in the front. Will have to be good enough.
It still sounds better than it did when it rolled off the lot - after only $150 of speakers in the front. Will have to be good enough.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
The back seat and the seat backs need to come out as well as the airbag badges and screws behind them and the panels
They screw in to . You also need to remove the back felt panels with the clips in them and the black panel over the trunk latch . Loosen the rubber seals around all of the parts that you will be removing by tugging on them slowly. You must remove the seats to do the job.
I read about someone doing it by bending the panels over by the speakers and that is just silly.
Always remove the negative wire from the battery until your work is done because you risk setting off the airbags or their warning lights.
They screw in to . You also need to remove the back felt panels with the clips in them and the black panel over the trunk latch . Loosen the rubber seals around all of the parts that you will be removing by tugging on them slowly. You must remove the seats to do the job.
I read about someone doing it by bending the panels over by the speakers and that is just silly.
Always remove the negative wire from the battery until your work is done because you risk setting off the airbags or their warning lights.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
There are some panel clips just near the speaker panels so you have to give a firm tug towards the middle of the car. The you need to grab the bottom and push up to release the panel from the clips that are long the bottom of the back side windows.
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Miami, Fl
Ok guys... I just finished reading the whole thread for the 2nd time... I'm about to help a friend install some Polks Dxi6500 on the front doors of a '09 mcs with the base boost system. they're component speakers so they have crossovers and I can't for the life of me find what wires should I use for feeding the signal to the crossovers. He will not be installing an amp/rear speakers for now so I need full spectrum? signal to feed the crossovers so they can do their job of separating it. I'm down to 3 options,
1- Wires from the bottom woofer on the door.
2- Wires from the mid/tweeter on the door.
3- Directly from the x9331 and re-wire to the doors.
Which one should I use? believe me I've read and read and I just can't find it...We will also be installing the Polk tweeters in the a-pillars so if anyone has some input on the whole situation I'll help me a lot!
1- Wires from the bottom woofer on the door.
2- Wires from the mid/tweeter on the door.
3- Directly from the x9331 and re-wire to the doors.
Which one should I use? believe me I've read and read and I just can't find it...We will also be installing the Polk tweeters in the a-pillars so if anyone has some input on the whole situation I'll help me a lot!
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 362
Likes: 2
From: Ashburn, Virginia
Ok guys... I need full spectrum? signal to feed the crossovers so they can do their job of separating it. I'm down to 3 options,
1- Wires from the bottom woofer on the door.
2- Wires from the mid/tweeter on the door.
3- Directly from the x9331 and re-wire to the doors.
Which one should I use?
1- Wires from the bottom woofer on the door.
2- Wires from the mid/tweeter on the door.
3- Directly from the x9331 and re-wire to the doors.
Which one should I use?
Last edited by Derepente; Apr 2, 2013 at 04:26 AM. Reason: Link to photo Hertz Audio install
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Miami, Fl
On My 09 Cabrio, i found capped twisted ends of the front channel speaker wire in the door about 2 inches above the lower 6 inch speaker and between the two speakers. It is possible that your situation is similar. I connected both of my doors this way. Those wire ends come from the x9331. So you can save in wire and put your crossovers in the door handle like. Many of us have done. I think my posts on this install are in here (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...26-post21.html) you'll see what i mean. Good luck!
Audio Input (Speaker level input from headunit)
(Pin - WireColor - Polarity)
Front Left
38 - Black/Red (+)
30 - Black/Purple (-)
Front Right
9 - Yellow/Brown (+)
17 - Yellow/Black (-)
Rear Left
37 - Blue/Brown (+)
29 - Blue/Black (-)
Rear Right
8 - Brown/Orange (+)
16 - Yellow/Red (-)
Output (Speakers)
Front Left Woofer (6 1/2")
41 - Black/Red (+)
42 - Black/Purple (-)
Front Right Woofer (6 1/2")
39 - Yellow/Purple (+)
40 - Yellow/Gray (-)
Front Left Mid/Tweet*
33 - Blue/White (+)
34 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here. The schematic is confusing, but I believe this lead goes to the 3 1/2" mid, with the tweeter slaved off this lead with a capacitor. DyeLooper noted the colors to his (HIFI) mid, and MotorMouth noted the tweeter has a cap. The colors for the tweeter wires should be Brown/Orange (+) and Blue/Red (-)
Front Right Mid/Tweet*
11 - Blue/Black (+)
12 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here as well, as noted above. Colors for the tweet should be Brown/Orange (+) and Yellow/Black (-).
I was in fact thinking about putting the crossovers inside the door armrest. The only thing I'm left to figure out by myself is how to route the cables from the crossovers to the a-pillars where we want to put the tweeters but I don't think it'll be much of a problem.
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 2
If anyone needs a small footprint amp, this soundstream pn 4.520d fits perfectly under the passenger seat in the floor. It packs quite a punch and even fits with the factory black plastic cover in place and never goes into thermal protect at least with 4 ohm loads. Lots of the HD guys prefer these to the ARC and they are a fraction of the price. I paid 135 shipped iirc
Many thanks to all those who shared their experience and diagrams!
I completed my install this morning -
'13 MCS HT
Polk 4" in place of the 3 1/2 (capped)
Polk DXi 65 two way in place of the 6.5
Rears stock (faded out for fill only)
Two Boston 8" subs in custom down firing box in the boot
Alpine 500.1 mono sub amp
Settings:
Bass - 0
Treble - +3
Fade - +4
Balance - 0
Amp gain - just above MIN
Bass Boost - 0
LPF - ~55-60 htz
Calling it "done" until I find an alpine 445U on clearance cheap or a 3 way x-over to add my Boston tweeters in the A pillars.
Thanks again for the great info.
~rAte
I completed my install this morning -
'13 MCS HT
Polk 4" in place of the 3 1/2 (capped)
Polk DXi 65 two way in place of the 6.5
Rears stock (faded out for fill only)
Two Boston 8" subs in custom down firing box in the boot
Alpine 500.1 mono sub amp
Settings:
Bass - 0
Treble - +3
Fade - +4
Balance - 0
Amp gain - just above MIN
Bass Boost - 0
LPF - ~55-60 htz
Calling it "done" until I find an alpine 445U on clearance cheap or a 3 way x-over to add my Boston tweeters in the A pillars.
Thanks again for the great info.
~rAte
