Why?
You just got full fidelity from your door speakers, now your going to limit them!!

You don't want major sound from the rear, they are meant as "fill" speakers.
All the sound should be coming from in front of you.

Mount the JBLs in the rear, and be done.

 

I already have JBL 6X9s in the rear, and according to the guy from Integral Audio, the larger rear speakers will do a better job of handling the frequencies at the 7Khz range where the notch filter drops out that frequency for the rear channel.


"Swap the Front/Rear Channels @ the X9331: $0 + your time. Search this board for Front/Rear Swap. If you have the time and aren’t inclined to do anything else, it’s not a bad idea. This will send the front channels – which don’t have limited bass response – to the rear speakers which are more capable of producing them."



I've read so many comments about how much better the system will sound after others have made the swap. I can always swap it back if I don't like it.

 

It's 70Hz, most likely due to a resonant frequency caused by the cars size.

But its your time!

 

Yes sir ... 70 Hz.

 

Also, Im from the old school of recording engineers that believe oval speakers don't reproduce lows any better than a round speaker. I personally hate the bloatiness of a 6X9.

Funny thing, I have never mixed a record where the sound field is from the rear!!
I do mix TV Surround, and only fill from the rear speakers.

Just saying!!

 

This thread has been very helpful, thank you!

What I need to know, and I trust you more than any of the audio shops by me as I went through hell with a shop who broke my radio on an amp install job ;-(

They installed the 4-channel amp along with some adapters in order to be compatible with the stock speakers.

Then, they broke the display for the stock stereo (They disconnected the silver connector) and after literally 18 hours sitting in their shop they offered an aftermarket stereo to replace it. I took their most up-to-date, expensive model they had in stock:

Pioneer AVIC-5000NEX

Now, my rear drivers speaker is all static sounding and the front passenger is starting to do the same thing.

The shop gave me, free:

Infinity Primus PR6500cs Component front speakers.

So I need to buy some rear speakers.

ANYWAYS, my question is:

When the shop changed it to the aftermarket system, would they have removed the adapters they originally used?

And if I were to change the front speakers myself, can I just remove the old ones and plug in the new ones or do I need to rewire?

Also, I would like to put the little speaker that comes with the front in the spot were our little 3" speaker is stock. How do I do this?

And how about the rear? Can I just plug & Play with new speakers or do I need to rewire?

 

From my experience installing Kicker DS693 (the huge ones Crutchfield says won't fit but actually do and are amazing ) it should be just splice them in and rock. It's just a pain to do, but totally worth it in my opinion.

 

When you say " Just splice them in." What exactly does that mean?

 

What I did was cut the wires and use a wire connector for each one. Try to keep the plastic connector because you never know when you'll need then again. at least that's what I've learned in the past.

 

For the rear 6X9, I created jumper wires from the OEM plug to the speakers.

OEM PLUG -----Female spade-> Wire->Male Spade-----New Speaker

 

So I went through and read the first 300 posts in this thread, phew you gus are awesome!

Of those 300 posts they were all for replacing speakers with a factory head unit.

My question is:

I have an aftermarket head unit installed (AVIC-5000NEX) along with a 4-channel alpine amp. I want/need to install front door speakers along with the tweeter & crossover.

What I got from a lot of useful posts is that the Orem speaker has a plastic male connector attached that I will need to cut off and wire to an 18gauge wire that the other side will be connected to the speaker.

I would like to also have a 4" speaker to replace the oem one. So in total there will be 8 speakers (3x speakers in each door & 2 rear oem for now)

How would that work wiring wise? I have a 4-channel amp so would that mean only my front speakers would be hooked up to the amp or can I have 2 speakers going to each channel. (6.5" & 4")


I am pretty novice with these technical cars. I do want to learn which is why I really want to try doing this myself. Im not an engineer, or an electrical technician, I am a pre-school teacher ;-)

A simple wiring diagram picture would do wonders for me as I am very visual.

Thank you ahead of time for holding my hand in this learning process.

 

At the risk of answering a question with a question:

What is the impedance output of the amp, what is the impedance of each speaker (ohms)?

That will determine how the front speakers will need to be wired (Parallel/series).

We need to match the impedance of speakers to amp.

 

Thanks - not sure I'm actually going to do anything anytime soon - the stock sound isn't great, but then its not that bad either to my ears. Sure it could do with a little better clarity but I'm quite happy with the amount of bass on all audio sources.

I have bought some Focal 4" co-axials to put in my Countryman front doors when the weather improves such that i can work comfortably on the driveway ; I'll be adding silent coat to the doors too - the results of that exercise might persuade me to revisit the R56 speakers.

 

Hey all,

I was just wondering what size Torx I need to remove the piece near the top speaker and am wondering what size torx I need for it? It seems too big for 20 and too small for 25. Any help?

Edit: Sorry, that was me being an idiot and not putting my tools away properly. it's T25

 

i have read as much as possible about removing the mirror switch as possible, but i'm still scared of breaking something and have not found anything definitve. do i pry the whole switch out, carefully? can anyone give me SPECIFIC instructions on it's removal. the pictures from one person have been removed which is a real bummer.

 

is there a standard connector i can buy to fit the harness that plugs in to the h/k amp?

 

Step 42: http://www.integralaudio.com/install...-RAM_v0414.pdf

Use a plastic panel removal tool to avoid damaging the soft plastic.

 

Are you looking to plug into the HK amp, or into the vehicle harness? For the first one you can get the 3-piece connector from your dealer. For the second, you are out of luck. BMW/Tyco does not make a free-hanging mate to that connector, they only use PCB mount connectors. We needed that connector for a product for another vehicle, and had to design it from scratch and have it tooled up. Unfortunately we have limited supply and can't sell them individually.

 

the latter is exactly what i was looking for
thanks for the info
looks like it will be wire taps/splices for now then :p

 

From what I gather over in the NCSExpert coding threads, if you tell the car it has HiFi instead of Boost, the notch filter in the rears is removed. I've read dire warnings about removing it, but seriously, why not just remove that filter and put a decent pair of 6x9 in the back?

It'd still be effectively fill, but less bad fill.

What am I missing?

 

You aren't missing anything, in theory that's all correct. The issues - if any - arise from the execution. That part just comes down to how well you use NCSExpert.

What you suggest isn't an option for most folks since few are willing to mess with the vehicle programming and the risks that entails. In this case, the benefit is also small.

 

I tried, but you can't access the 2RAD
module via NCSExpert.

 

this has probably been asked before, but if you were to take your signal from the front channels to get line ins for both a sub via monoblock amp and an additional power pack amp to boost your front output, would you be cutting your signal down significantly? More simply, is it bad for signal/audio quality to tap into the front channels twice for the purposes of amplification and a sub, since obviously on the base stereo you wouldn't want to tap the rears for a line?

on a related note:
I've always heard it's better to use an LOC to step your signal down for lines, even if the amp has high level inputs. Why is this? If the amp has high level inputs, wouldn't it be performing the step-down anyway? Currently I'm using a PAC adjustable LOC and I just can't wrap my head around how I should be setting the gains on both the LOC and amp, since they're essentially doing the same thing. Seems like 2 separate gain controls for the same output adds an unnecessary complication to your signal feed.

 

Another question here, can I buy brackets for replace the rear speakers? I bought a pair of Polk DB651's and would like to put them in the rear of a R57, but am finding it quite tricky.

 

I need some info. I have a 2013 mini cooper S. Just the basic 6 speaker system. Ive replaced the rear 6x9's. no problems there except taking the whole back out. My issue is with the front speakers. I'm putting components in. already bought the a pillars that have the speaker mounts. should I just replace the woofer, use the crossover there for tweeters? leave the midrange alone? OR replace the woofer and no crossover and replace the factory midrange with the tweeter and run the wires for tweeter to a pillars? Ive never encountered two sets of speakers in the front so I'm a little confused.