Just a quick update - I will follow up with more details and photos tomorrow or this weekend:

1) Got the Bremmen head unit installed ! Fits pretty simply - but for some reason my replacement center console cover ( pn # 51169206836 - I bought it to fit the new CD unit ) did not have holes for the AC, defrost etc. Nothing a drill and bit could not accommodate.

2) The RCA's outs are weak - from a voltmeter, they measured at ~0.5 volts. Ended up taping from the speakers directly ( front door woofers ) and used an LOC. Much stronger signal

3) The LOC and subwoofer fit well in the trunk - I just used velcro for the LOC on the back side of the subwoofer and even velcro for holding the subwoofer down - not that it needs it.

4) Shifter boot was a causality, but that can be replaced.

5) Even though I have the HK system - I discovered that the door woofers and midranges were replaced with the base Philips speakers. I ended up replacing all woofers and mid ranges ( everything but the tweeters ) with OEM HK.

6) I need to dial in the subwoofer gains and crossover, plus believe I need to turn down the bass on the equalizer before 60 hz ( - to reduce bass to the door and rear woofers - and let the sub drive all the lows ). Given the amp is tuned already to the speakers - I'll leave the rest as flat.

7) Had initial troubles with the backup cam - and found out via the list ( thanks @DogfaceSGM ! ) that we need to add a relay.

So all in all - looks very promising. I just need to do a little tuning and learn the head unit. If I get bored - I will update the amp. BTW - the volume on the Bremmen gets loud very quick. I think I read that this happens from earlier posts - not sure if that can be adjusted or not, but not sure if I ever need to go over half volume !

 

Follow Up:

1) Find photos attached of the install - head unit, close up on area I drilled for AC/Defrost buttons, subwoofer, loc and rear camera


Detail on where I drilled for AC/Defrost buttons


Rear View camera - offset to avoid tailgate latch


Side shot of subwoofer - on the right you can see LOC in the shadow


Subwoofer in trunk - velcro'd in place


LOC on back of the subwoofer - velcro'd on


Android Unit installed

2) I tuned the sub crossover to ~ 80 hz. I then set the equalizer flat, except at 100 hz it is about half, and at 60 hz it is about one quarter. I like the sound

3) After I paired - the unit goes to the Android display connected to my phone. When I hit the MPH button, I get the default screen or Speedo screen. The only way I have figured out to get back to the Android Screen connected to my phone is to go to apps and click on the Android Auto App - there is not toggle.

4) The volume controls do not work on the steering wheel ( up and down arrows ), but the next/prior tracks work ( left and right arrows ). I am I missing a setting adjustment ?

5) CDs sound great ! FM is pretty good if you have a good station

6) Has anyone loaded apps on the head unit - say WAZE or SirusXM ( I have these on my cell )

7) I get an 'inaccurate location statement' on the screen when trying to use their NAV. My guess is there is a setting or the gps antenna is not receiving well. Not a big deal - as I would use WAZE on my cell.

8) I turned brightness to max - I can see the gas gauge and cruise control lights, but it is a bit dim. Again, not a big deal as I can see these on the steering wheel display.

9) Not sure if I need to upgrade the amp - there have been postings on the JBL DSP4086. I think you would tap into the front midrange and rear woofer for the inputs via an LOC. Then hopefully use the 8 channel speakers leads just like they are in the factory amp. Has anyone done this ? Might make the volume scaled a bit better then the Android - as I doubt going above half volume is needed.

 

Volume buttons should work. IIRC there's an app (or something in the settings menu) you have to run to map the buttons.

Yeah, you can install apps. I just connected to my home WiFi in the garage, logged in with a Google Play store account, and downloaded apps. Waze probably won't work on the road because that requires the Android unit to have an Internet connection, and it won't when it's connected to your phone via Android Auto. So your best bet is to put those on your phone and run them via Android Auto. I have an iPhone but that's what I do with CarPlay: I just use Apple Maps for nav via my phone.

 

Thanks - I'll look deeper in the settings. Their is also PDF file you can read on instructions - I did a brief review but did not see anything at first, but you had to read it on the screen was a bit of a pain. Maybe I can email it to myself to look at it on my pc LOL

 

It may be in the factory settings, I forget. The code for the factory menu is 318

Settings>CAR>Factory settings>input password 318

 

Thanks - but I am at a loss. What and where do I access to go to factory settings ? Something on the stalk where you would reset the TPMS?

 

No, this is on the new radio. The settings application in the matrix of apps.

 

Thanks - l will take a look !

 

Hi - I went into Canbus ( see photo ) - do you recall if this is your setting - 89 13 BMW MINI (Bagoo) ?




I see there is another MINI setting - - 99 15 BMW MINI (Bagoo)




Or it might be a general BMW setting too. Recall - my mini is a 2010 ( so pre 2011 - which might be different ).

Thanks !

 

Pretty sure that's how mine is set. I think you want to go to the Key Study menu? Somewhere there's something that lets you directly program the steering wheel keys.

 

I did look at it - but dont recall seeing options that were relevant.. maybe a factory reset which sounds scary. I'll look again

 

Okay, found it. Go into Settings -> Car Settings -> Steering Wheel Keys. That'll let you program them.

If that doesn't work go into Settings -> Car Settings -> Factory Settings -> Other and make sure steering wheel keys assign is set to Can Key.

 

That worked - I needed to do both. Thanks so much ! I was a bit finicky in assigning/programming the volume controls - but after a few tries, I got it. You just need to be persistent, and wait between steps to make sure it took.

I'll see if it still works the next time I start the car - as it did not need to reboot.

 

"Tying" up some loose ends on this install:

The Android Head unit was fine - but noticed the volumes were very loud on the FM radio - where I only used about 1/3 of the volume range. The DVD was much better - so could use more of the range for the same 'loudness'.

Unfortunately, I had blown a CAS unit that I needed to be replaced. I had the local Mini Tech ( Matt - in Naples FL ) do it - he is great by the way ! Just does Mini's - from oil changes to engine swaps etc. He has done about 3 dozen CAS replacements. He told me to wait until it is cool and see if the car starts then - it did. So I drove it over when I could get an appointment. He also have better diagnostic software then my scanner and verified it was the CAS and not the Footwell Mod or fuel pump relay. FL is a bit harder on electronics ... ..

Anyway - while doing that, I decided to add the 8 channel JBL/Infinity Amp. I found an unopened box on ebay for $200 - so went for it. Matt said he would like to install it - as he gets lots of requests for stereos and wanted to see how hard it was to do an amp upgrade. It was only 2 hours of work because:

1) We used the HK existing power and ground wires - they were 12 gauge and we would have installed 10 gauge. We ran it for 3 - 4 hours and although the amp got warm, it could be touched. And their were not cut outs - it ran continuously. Others on this forum have done the same.

2) We added a heat sink

3) It easily fit where the stock HK amp was and we were able to use the existing cover with a little massaging.

4) We used the speaker wire inputs - which was the most time consuming of the install. One wire had us fooled - as the color was similar between 2 wires and we guessed wrong.

5) We used the DSP input parameters from earlier in this thread - adjusted a little as I have the subwoofer and did not want any of the woofers doing much work below 60ish hz. I also set the time delays to the center head rests between the two front seats ( in inches )

6) The Input levels between radio, DVD, etc are seemed to work. I have the the Master volume set at 0 - I think max is 6 dB is max, so I have turned down quite a bit. So hopefully good clean power ... Note - I still gets plenty loud !

To set the Input levels go to: Settings -> Car Settings ( code is 318 ) > Voice in the head unit. I set all my settings to 15. Not sure how high they go - I should have checked - but maybe 20.

Also for assigning the steering wheel volume keys:So far - I am happy with it. I do have a word doc with more detail if anyone wants it. Just message me. I will play with the DSP a bit more - as I think the highs are a bit muted and I need to further minimize dB on the woofers below 60 hz. I did have to dial the subwoofer back some

Cheers -

amp with heat sink under

Amp Covered