gentlemen .. I need some idea on location for subwoofer. If you would please post some picture of your aftermarket sub that would be great ..

ps. I now have H/K unit .. where is the stock subwoofer hidden at?

 

There is no stock sub in the HK setup. Its all done through the amp and the HK speakers.

 

see this thread for my sub set up.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=35442

 

Nice and clean looking. Looks pretty sturdy too. I was thinking of doing something like that as well. I like stillbeing able to used the boot for putting stuff.

Then of corse there is always overkill. Like this guy. Sold his car a few months later.

 

Boy, do I love these brainstorming questions.

First you need to decide what "bass" you want. There are 6.5" subs, 8", 10", 12", 15", and 18". Each gives you different things depending on how much space you're willing to give up. You also need to decide how "creative" you want to be with the enclosure. There are many simple routes that will yield very good sound. I prefer small subs that are given sealed volume to breath. Which brings me to enclosures: sealed, ported, free air, aperiodic, bandpass. There are others but they're just variations on these.

I've built my own boxes and bought enclosures (and then modified to work). I've built a ported isobaric for a pair of tens, a small sealed enclosure for a 8" Boston Rallye, another for a Boston Pro8.4, another for a Kicker 8L5, bought a JL Audio 10W0 bandpass (my first sub), and modded a set of .66 Q-Logics for a pair of Aluma Pro 10's.

One thing that I've noticed is that because of speaker mounting depths and wood thicknesses, boxes under 0.4 cf are all about the same size. It sounds weird but if you build two different small sizes, you'll see what I mean. It's difficult to go physically smaller unless you're using fiberglass and/or metal.

My ideas are just that, ideas. It may require skill beyond us mere mortals.

There is enough room under the front seat to build a "lidless" box that seals to the floor for a 6.5" sub (JL 6W0 is really the only one to consider.)

You could replace the 6x9 with either a 6.5 or an 8 in the rear sides. Image Dynamics made an IB8 that can be mounted free-air (aka. infinite baffle.) Their ID8 v.3 can still be. I would suggest aperiodic mounting in this location because this "enclosure" doesn't require a typical box. Here's a quick article. Or you could usurp the pocket on each side of the rear seat and devise an enclosure that takes up that space.

If you still have the US knee bolster, there is enough room behind there to mount at least a 6.5, and possibly an 8. I would fire it down but toward the middle of the might work as well. If you're willing to lose the glove box, you could do it on the passenger side too.

You could build an enclosure that is in the passenger's foot well, up against the fire wall, on the floor (making it raised) or both. I'm familiar with a few cars that acutally cut thru the front floor and mounted an enclosure behind the hole. That put it in the fender, the wheel well or in the engine compartment. Although I doubt the Mini has room for any of that.

If you're willing to cut some plastic, the side areas of the hatch could be configured to house an 8 each. From the rear shelf support inner vertical face to the metal of the car is just under 6". More than enough to squeeze ~0.5 cf from.

JL use to sell half-cylinders for the 6W0 that were perfect for mount to the front of the bottom of the front seats. They worked pretty well once another layer of resin was added to the inside. (and a little polyfill.)

You could create a roof mounted enclosure in the rear moonroof. You don't really want the weight up there but I think it could sound good.

You could replace the rear shelf with a box. You would have to reenforce the mounting supports but if done right, could be removed to make room when hauling other things.

Of course, there are the standard assortment of wedges, rectangular boxes and new age blobs that can fill the hatch and make buying more than 2 days worth of groceries impossible.

Last but not least, you could rip out the back seat, make a wall of woofers and go db Drag Racing. Sorry, but I never understood why you'd want a car that could make you deaf if you weren't careful.

 

Did some measuring for under the dash for a subbox.

On the drivers side, it would take a some creative fiberglassing. There's room for a 6.5" driver between the steering column and the door. The driver would fire down. There's about 4.5 inches of vertical space. The box would have to continue to toward the center of the car, under the steering column. If you cut the plastic, there is at least 2.75" of vertical space, and more towards the bolster. On the right side of the steering column, there's 4.5"w x 5"h and about 8" deep. This adds a good amount of volume. Overall, if using thin stiff materials, you should be able to get ~.2 cf.

On the passenger side, the possibilities are far better and far easier to make happen. Removing the glove box takes 5 torx screws. With all flat sides, the dimensions are 10 x 16.5 x 5 x 4.25 (depth top x width x hiegth x depth bottom) without the length of slanted front. This is 0.34 cf exterior. If you use 0.75" material, the volume is 0.20 cf. That's enough for the JL Audio 6W0 in a sealed box. There is more space to be had if you don't mind getting more complex. Behind the metal cross-brace (at the top of the space), there's 2.75" deep for almost the full width. This could be a port or an extension. There's also an area toward the door, next to the heater that is fairly significantly sized, that could add ~0.05 cf. I didn't even consider that there is more space between the lower crossbrace and where the glove box door is. There's also a nice metal crossbrace to attach the box to.

Personally, I don't like the glove box. Stuff is constantly falling out. The nice thing is that the sub-box can be built without destroying anything. The glove box could be put back if the car is sold or if a large sub is added later.

 

Alright so I'm gonna dredge up a real old thread instead of making a new one...

I'm planning on adding 2 10" shallow Diamond Audio Subs in the boot (amp's going under the passenger seat) and am looking for ideas on enclosures. I plan on making it as tall as the seats when folded down sort of creating a false floor. The box will be removable as necessary but I'm looking for ideas to give my installer to dress it up. Lexan and mirrors came to mind but I'd love to see if you guys have any custom pics or can point me in the right direction.
-G

 

Alpine MRP-M350 amp powering an 8" JL w3. I made a mdf enclosure to jl's specs and wrapped it in headliner material. I has the supplies to make it so it was basically a free sub box. It sounds great with my blaupunkt headunit and alpine speakers. Its the perfect amount a bass for me. Also it is a fairly lightweight setup and can be romoved in seconds for track days. Its not a bling bling setup but it gets the job done.

 

See
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=17257

Search for "JL Stealthbox, Infinity BassLink or custom Subwoofer"

http://homepage.mac.com/kurtheiden/p...toAlbum39.html
Steathbox in Boot.

 

glove box subwoofer! check out my thread in small system big sound

 

Sub and amp in the trunk. As long as you don't need to carry groceries for more than 2 people, it's not much of a problem

 

Zoom n Boom

 

I recently bought this http://www.audiointegrations.net/cat...42/5284140.htm

Couldn't be happier with it. Great quality, solid box

 

Have pics of this installed? What speaker did u end up placing In there

 

im interested to see other ideas or completed installs in these with the HK system

 

4 SA-12's powered by an AQ2200. Box is 7.25cuft tuned to 33hz with a custom 10" aeroport with a 15" flare. Nothing crazy

 

mini sub