8 Gauge Power Cable (Fused at the Positive Battery) From Battery (Driver Side, Large Rubber Grommet Access to Driver side Foot Well Area)

Power Cable is run along the Drivers Side Rocker Panel.

Tools used to remove Trim, Rocker Panel, and Rear Trunk Panel Driver's Side



Mono Block Amplifier PPI Ion Series


Location of Amplifier, 8 Gauge Power Cable, Speaker Level Convertor to RCA


Harman Kardon Amplifier Harness, where the Speaker Level Convertor to RCA wires up.

Black/Brown & Black/Red

Pioneer 10" subwoofer speaker


Front Mounted Subwoofer Volume Control

It sits much lower and discreetly, and easily within reach (picture does not do it justice) from the drivers seat.

Location of Speaker level to RCA convertor that is easily accessible and adjustable.



Subwoofer Speaker in Rear Hatch


The sound is AMAZING. You now have that Feel and Sound of the Lower Frequencies that the Factory H&K Sound system simply cannot reproduce. You can go from the pounding bass, to the a milder rich filler bass. I listen to FLAC, Tidal, Pandora, Spotify, and the the adjustable bass volume control from the drivers seat allows me to tune the bass at a touch of the ****. Very satisfying. Amplifier ran me about $140CDN, Misc. (power cable, fuse, connectors, Speaker level convertor to RCA) approximately $50CDN, and Subwoofer $150CDN. Most of the equipment was shopped around online or price matched.

A more detailed write up will follow.

Cheers

 

Fantastic! Thanks for the photos. I'm finishing building a subwoofer and expect to install it sometime in the next month. (My projects tend to progress slowly; I have young kids.)

 

Thank you for this post! Just bought a new mini last week, and was hoping to add a sub/amp. I used to have a sub/amp in my old mini and it sounded awesome.

Do you know if the F56 has the same cargo well dimensions as the F54? Does the cargo well lid lay flush in your mini with the subwoofer installed?

 

Thinking of doing the same.

But, does the sub amplify the Active Sound Design??

 

Coding out the Active Sound Design is pretty simple with a $20 cable off of EBAY. Software is freely available. In my car adding more power to the speakers prior to coding ASD out it did amplify the sound but not terribly.

Providing more power to the under seat subs will provide a major improvement without taking up your storage space in the boot. If you don't need that booming bass car shaking thump then the under seats will get it done.

 

I considered that route but went with the hardware bypass route so when I eventually add a subwoofer I can just splice into it instead of the factory wiring.

​​​​​So you were able to increase the power to speakers through the coding? What else have you coded in?

I'm considering either adding a subwoofer/amp in the rear or adding an amp and increasing power to the underseat subs. I'd prefer a dedicated sub, but also prefer to keep the sub/amp in the lower cargo area and keep it covered with the lower cargo cover. Would that negatively impact the sound?