EDIT: Title should state "R55"

Hello all, new to forum...had my Hampton S Clubman a week now. I bought it off the floor without Bluetooth. My OCD won't allow there to be useless buttong on the MFSW, so I'm going to install an MKi9000. It does have the HK system, but no NAV or comfort.

I know that bluetooth installs are fairly old news here...I've searched and read, so I understand.

I ordered my kit from Custom Cellular in CA. The guy I talked to, Bill, was awesome. Knew exactly what I needed and sent it....cheaper than paying exchange and shipping from the UK (no Offense Mikey)

The question is, does anyone have/know of an install guide? I'm very familiar with auto electrical, but bluetooth install is new for me....should be PNP, but I haven't torn anything apart yet.

Having not purchased a kit from newministuff, I don't have an install sheet. Custom Cellular is an installer, and Bill said that they don;t really have an install sheet.

Appreciate the help!

 

Parrot Website has links to a bunch of install guides (or at least it used to) and if not there best bet would be to cal them. I have not seen a specific write up on that unit.

But there is also in How To section under the Modificaions where "all" how to's end up at some point

 

Thanks Schatzy, I have combed the Parrot Website, but will look a bit more(I saw very basic wiring diagrams that didn't help me too much). I'll also do a write up with pics on this thing along with aftermarket alarm system when I install next weekend. This unit should go in like the rest of Parrot's...this one just doesn't have a wired screen, only a wireless remote, which I plan on not using...provided I hook it up right! I'll check the how to section as well.

 

I will tag along to this post, as I am also looking to install Parrot + H/K + MFSW (on an R56, 2010). I had a Parrot system in a different car and for music bluetooth streaming (or direct connection using an iPhone cable), the Parrot functioned as an amplifier, bypassing the car's stereo. Would this still be the case in a Mini or would it function as a source for the H/K?

I do not want to use Parrot as an amp. I'd rather use the Parrot's iPhone cable to charge the phone and then the H/K's AUX to listen to music. Would this work or would the Parrot "take over" once the iPhone cable is connected?

 

There is a place that makes a Plug and Play Cable for the install with full instructions.

Here is the web site these people are recommended by Parrot USA.

http://www.quickconnectproducts.com/...ind.php?id=176

 

I used a harness from this company in the past for a different vehicle (Mazda) and it was GREAT. For my Mini, I need MFSW integration, which it does not have.

 

OK gents, here's the deal. I did the install. No pics and and fancy write up though, it was more involved than I anticipated...isn't it always?

It really wasn't too bad, except for the fact that Parrot doesn't give crap for instructions...and the ones they do have are cryptic....and in 5 different languages.

If you have installed stereos and, maybe, lights or horns before it will not be too foreign. I installed the MKi9000 and the Unika because I wanted steering wheel integration...works very well. Sound is good with a touch of engine whine when the ipod is hardwired.

I wanted the MKi9000, because I did not want a screen...no need for it, I'm driving. The 9000 talks to you, and tell/asks you what you want to do, so really no need for added clutter of a screen.

Equipment:
I bought my Parrot gear (Mki9000 and Unika) and harness from Custom Cellular in SoCal. Call and talk to Bill. Tell him your car and he'll get you the right equipment shipped...no guesswork. They are also available for tech support questions since Parrot tech is absolute crap. I called their tech a couple of times when I made a stupid mistake (knocked a wire loose from a harness) and they got me straight. Very friend;y folks over there.

For the Mini, download the BMW/Mini instructions from the parrot website...Here...Remember CAN LOW is Brown/Orange and CAN HIGH is Green/Orange...these wires will be twisted and will connect into the harness you buy.

Use the youtube tutorial- here to help you dismantle your dash. T-20 and T-30 are used. I also recommend a set of plastic trim removal tools...I bought mine for $15 from amazon, and they were indispensable. As you remove the screws and trim panels, be sure to keep track of where the screws came from...it might sound ****, but it will help you cut time when putting everything back together.

You will need to run a wire from your interior fuse box for ignition power to the harness. I tapped in to location 32 in the fuse box with an Add-a-Circuit. I connected it upstream of the orange ignition wire fuse on the big harness between the parrot and the head unit.

I also used 3M body side molding adhesive foam from Advanced Auto to mount the blue box and the Unika box behind the speedometer. Please, for the love of god, make sure everything works before you put the dash back together.

It seems that the stock location for the iPod cable is out the glove box...lame. I used a dremel tool to make a hole in the panel forward of the cup holders (the "back" of the coin tray) to the left of the existing AUX port. This panel is held on by two compression fittings. To determine where to place your hole, when you have your stereo surround removed, pop the little panel back in and trace the opening on the backside with a sharpie. The ipod cable comes with a grommet, I gently cut it off with an xacto knife and trimmed the hole until the grommet would fit.

For microphone placement, we ran the mic cord up the Driver's A-pillar (pop off the airbag plug and remove the pillar trim), under the headliner and into the upper center console. We actually placed the mic in the aft grill in the console. It took some trimming of the inner plastic console with nippers to get it to fit just right. The mic is positioned behind the center aft grill and is visible if you stare really hard.

I also downloaded the latest software update from Parrot onto a thumb drive and updated the unit...the software updates the Parrot blue box and the Unika at the same time.

I recommend soldering your connections and using heat shrink tubing where possible...I'm a stickler for a solid splice. Also, once you know everything is working, cut off the excess wires that you don't need (there will be plenty) this way, packing everything into your dash will be more manageable.

Tools/items needed/recommended:
-Plastic/nylon trim panel removal tool set
-multimeter
-a spool of white 22ga wire (I like white, because I can use a colored Sharpie to stripe it for identification.)
-add-a-circuit for mini fuse
-wire strippers (the vise grip automatic stripper is awesome)
-butt splices and bullet connectors.
-fabric harness tape (I use this to bundle wires and whatnot...tears easily and sticks well...better than regular electrical tape, and you will want to make sure that your wires are manageable.)
-3M gray double-sided adhesive foam for automotive molding
-T-20 and T-30 torx bits.
-xacto knife
-dremel tool
-flashlight
-extension magnet
-nippers and dykes
-phone or ipod to check youtube speedo removal video (make sure you laugh at the fact that the guy calles the tach and the speedo ...both...the "odometer".)
-Patience
-Soldering iron
-Butt splices, bullet connectors, etc.

At the end of the day, this setup was a butt-load cheaper than installing or having the OEM modules installed. It is not a job for the faint of heart...I would rate the install 'intermediate-to-advanced'. If you are not familiar with car electrical, don't mess with this...pay someone to do it for you. Just sayin'.

P.S....someone asked about the iPod hookup. When you hookup your ipod (when selected from the menu on the steering wheel) it takes over the radio...no matter what mode you're in, it is playing th ipod. Make sure your volume is low on the ipod, because it'll blast, and you can only lower the volume via the ipod or the steering wheel...not the head unit.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask or holler at me on PM. I'll be glad to help, because I was looking for info on this install and found nothing....if I can pass on my experience, I will.

 

The youtube movie looks very scarey. Not sure that this is for me. I am not good with plastic parts that might break... and there are a lot of them that you need to remove.

 

KatKat, the plastic is really no big deal....it looks and feels scarier than it is. . The trim pieces are very flexible and resilliant. I was a bit nervous when I realized that I was going to have to remove the speedo, but is no big deal. So long as you use some plastic trim tools or a screwdriver covered in electrical tape, you will be fine. Removing the trim is easy; orchestrating all of the wiring into the dash and closing it up becomes an artwork though.

At the end of the day, don't let the trim pieces discourage you! :D

 

OK, OK! I will think about it again :-)
If I do it, I will probably go with the kit from newministuff.co.uk - it seems plug and play.

 

From what I understand, It's the same as what I got from custom cellular...plug n play is a bit of a misnomer in this situation...hence the involvement.

I like the newministuff kit, I just wanted to find a cheaper solution stateside so that I would not have to pay the shipping and conversion. I paid $300 shipped for the MKi9000 and unika with harnesses. I could have probably bought individual parts and spent a hair less, but I also was reassured since these guys install them in Minis all the time.

P.S. I also did a lot of soldering and splicing, because I was installing a CAN alarm system at the same time...my particular situation was less plug n play.

 

I also decided to experiment with Belkin Aircast (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetoo...7025567&sr=8-1). I got it today and made 1 call so far and the other side was very happy with the sound quality. My side was perfect - very clear sound through the speakers.

Pro's:
- cost - just $60
- great sound through the H/K system
- almost everything I need, as I mainly use the system on AUX mode
- You can hide the wires for the most part
- You can still use the MFSW for volume

Cons:
- will not switch from FM/radio to handsfree (but I rarely listen to radio)
- you need to press a button for it to connect to your phone. For me - it actually works, as it does not drain the iPhone's battery
- you cannot use the MFSW to make calls
- there is an extra button/mic that you need to put somewhere on the dash


I will report back in a few days.

 

Thanks! I'm trying to weigh my options in getting my 2007 R56 MCS hooked up with satellite. Turns out custom cellular is a 3 minute drive from my office. I'll have to check them out. But it's looking like I'll have to shell out some cash for install...I don't have the patience or knowledge for a job this deep.

 

Update: I am not so happy with my Belkin Aircast, despite my initial enthusiasm. As long as you do not use it on a highway - it is fine (although I got some complaints even when driving at lower speeds). It is totally unusable at highway speeds (all windows closed). R56 is a noisy car!

I will experiment some more with the location of the mic, but I do not expect it to improve significantly.

(the bluetooth audio streaming is still great with the Aircast)

I am curious to know if Parrot works well at highway speeds.

 

I am trying to do this as well with a different Parrot unit.

Did you have to tap into any of factory wiring other than power?

 

You can do everything plug and play (unless you need to use a filter like I did):

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-with-h-k.html

Looking back at what I did, I think I would have tried the cable from the UK (Bluetooth to line in), due to the fact that current phones (iPhone 5, Galaxy S3) do not have direct analog audio out like the old iPhones.
There might be a solution for audio out for S3, I ordered a Y cable on ebay, but it is questionable if it will work.

 

I got the mki9000 kit from custom cellular for use in my 2007 mini cooper.

I must admit that I was intimidated about pulling my dashboard apart. I watched the you tube videos and it almost scared me enough to go to an installer. But, I did it myself anyway.

It is not a basic job. It took me around 2.5 hours, soup to nuts.

The disassembly is mostly just removing screws and pulling bits of trim off. Pulling the radio out is a bit of a challenge. The antenna cable is short and tricky to get off (and back on too).

Thankfully the custom cellular kit really is plug and play. Just disconnect the harness from the radio, plug it in to the custom cellular harness, then plug the custom cellular harness into the radio. Then, it just works. The OP talked about running a circuit. There is no need. The parrot and Unika draw power from the harness. No splicing. No cutting. Just plug everything in.


After I tested it, I placed the microphone in the overhead dash compartment near the rearview mirror where the factory mic goes. Then, I ran the mic wire down through the drivers side A pillar and into the stereo compartment. Then, I tested everything again. The mic cable plugs into the parrot - be sure to twist the jack to lock it in.

Placing the parrot and Unika boxes is tricky. I put them behind the speedometer. But, not all the wires fit there. They went either behind or beneath the radio. Again, this is tricky to get everything in there such that the radio still fits.

After getting the radio back in, I just put in one screw and tested again. Make sure it all works before putting the dash back together.

Oh. One other thing. The parrot has a line in cable for an iPhone or USB or mini jack. I ran that through the spot where the mini's aux in was. I think I'll put some rubber around the wires later.

Putting the dash back together went pretty fast.

The system works really well. It sounds great. Dialing is good. The steering wheel controls work. Bluetooth audio is awesome. I can access my phones voice controls and send texts or emails or even schedule an appointment. One thing that is not intuitive is how to access the parrot's menu. You need to hit foward-back-forward-back on the steering wheel controls to get into the menu.

The project is a little intimidating because you take your whole dash apart. But, I am glad I did it and did not pay someone.

 

How much did you pay for the harness? Everything works on the steering wheel?

Thanks.

 

The harness itself I'd around $40. You can buy the Mki9000 and Unika elsewhere for less money but I paid $350 to get everything from custom cellular.

You control everything from the steering wheel. The one trick is that in order to toggle through the menu, you first have to enter forward - back - forward- back on the steering wheel controls. You would not know how to do this unless you read the instructions that came with the Unika.

To make a call just hit the phone button and dial by voice. To end a call just long press the call button. To refuse a call long press the call button. Look at Mode C in the Unika quick start guide. It lists all the controls.

Call quality is really great so far. I'm very happy with this.

 

Going to do exactly this next weekend with the kit from Custom Cellular. Your post has definitely helped. I'm crossing my fingers mine is as smooth an install as yours!

 

I did this at the weekend, I used a cable set from the UK from ebay

Taking the dash apart was not so bad, have a good look at the two screws you get through the vent, they sit in a a cup so the screws are less likely to fall in.
I did not have to remove the rev counter, releasing the steering wheel adjuster and dropping the wheel down should be enough to work the trim panel out from behind it.

The rest went pretty much as the video except I removed the radio/speedo form its frame first (the silver screws both sides of the cd and silver one on top.. there may be two others I cannot remember) THEN I removed the plastic frame. That way I was able to get the parrot and UNKEA in place and refit the frame before sliding the radio/speedo into place.

As has been said the worst part is positioning the pieces and all of the plugs and wires so that the radio slides in, that's what took me the time. Next time I would think more about just where along the lines I splice in for the Canbus i.e. I would decide on plug positions first, then splice in.

It works great!

Terry