I am posting this due to exhaustion after spending the past few hours doing searches for these questions.

My new Clubman S is about 5 weeks away from being delivered to my dealer. My only buyers remorse is that I spent the xtra $500 on the 10 speaker hi-fi upgrade. I was on the fence about it because I demo'd both it and the std system and found the hi-fi speaker system definitely a step-up, but I cant say I was that impressed with it.
My 1st Q: Doing many searches tonight and other nights it seems that maybe I could buy just a couple aftermarket speakers (Im forced to be frugal) that would give me another noticeable "step-up" in the sound. But which two speakers should I replace to get real results? I've read many posts about similar things but since I'm not very adept at this stuff Im afraid they've just confused me more. My first plan was to take the car to a car audio dealer when I get it but, as with other things it always pays to do your own homework and I figure you folks have experience plus your not trying to sell me on anything! Any thoughts you have on this I know I will use.

2nd Q: I plan on using my Sirius Starmate Replay radio.
From what I read in posts here it looks like I can mount the antenna on the dash with good results but I'm wondering about mount options. Its currently mounted using a metal mount thats inserted in a seam in the dash of my van. Not sure if that mount could somehow be used in the Clubman or not. In other posts I've seen a couple of pics of similar installs but nothing that looks very solid. Also, while the Starmate has pretty good broadcast quality do you think I will need to disconnect the OEM radio antenna (or a switch) to get a clear sounding signal?

Any input you may have on these problems will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

 

 

Replace the two in the doors. The factory speakers are metric sizes, I believe. So, there has been some debate on the replacement size.

What I found best for the lower speaker in the door was 6.5" speakers. This is where the HIFI system sends all the bass. I purchased component speakers for this location. Components come with a woofer and separate tweeter, rather than typical 2-way speakers with the tweeter mounted in the center of the woofer. The separate tweeter can be installed in the A-piller just above the dash.

For the upper speaker in the door, I used a 2-way 4" speaker. I started with a 3.5" (as recommended in a sticky thread) but it was much too small to fit.

With good speakers in the front, you can change the balance between the front and back to favor, or completely turn off, the rear speakers. If you have the Park Distance Control option, you will need to leave the rears loud enough to hear the beeps which come only through the rears. I'm not sure if there are any other sounds that only come through the rears.

If the audio place talks you into going with an after-market amp and all new speakers (perhaps at a later date), an advantage of getting the HIFI is that the signal at the X9331 connector, under the dash, has unfiltered signals. With the standard system they already have MINI's bizzare filtering at the X9331. Using the X9331 is much easier for getting signals than tearing the dash apart to get at the head unit.

However, it is important to leave the original HIFI amp in place and connected because the onboard computer needs to see it when routine software updates and repairs are done. Don't let an audio place rip it out. Best to find a place that has worked on numerous 2nd Generation MINIs and stands behind their work.

 

Here are two suggestions for your Satellite Mount and Antenna

Antenna

Your Antenna you have on your car from the factory has a Sirius/XM antenna built in with wiring already in the car. You can buy the patch cable here for about 30.00 delivered. This will keep you from mounting another antenna or having one on your dash.

http://www.cdint.com/catalog/model/SB9SBJ-174-5

Here is a good thread on the subject
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nna-cable.html

MOUNT

Here are some pretty cool mounts from Kuda

http://www.kudausa.com/kuda_mount_an...07-34-529.html

 

Robin,

Thanks for the good info. What make/model were you talking about for the component speakers? I like the idea of replacing both the 6.5's and the small A-pillar tweeters but what kind of performance are we talking about? Night & Day? Or what? And what is the cost?

And thanks for the rest of the good advice.

 

slimjimtell,

Wow I had no idea that the stock antenna was in fact a usable sat antenna as well! Looks to be a bit of a pita to get to cable under the passenger seat but worth it. I did notice that all the folks posting in that thread had '08 clubbies and mine is (in production now ) a 2009. I would imagine not much has changed but have you heard anything? I guess to remove the passenger seat will be a learning experience. Any hints on getting to the cable that werent in the thread?
As well thanks for the mount links. Still not sure on how I want to do it. Definitely dont like the idea of mounting it low though? Do you have any pics of your install?

 

I used Infinity Kappa 60.7cs (I think they have been replaced by 60.9cs.) 6-1/2" component speaker system, and Infinity Kappa 42.7i 4" 2-way car speakers. Cost for these was less than $200 through Amazon.

I'm not sure they are the best choice. They greatly improve clarity over the factory speakers, but they are rather "bright". I might have been happier with speakers that have a warmer sound.

 

for the dash mount: http://www.proclipusa.com/vehiclemou...clemounts.aspx

Just got mine and it's great! First you need to pick the mount, then the adapter for your device. I have a Sportster 4. the install is very easy.. < 2min.

I used the car antenna connection and that works well also. use the part mentioned above: http://www.cdint.com/catalog/model/SB9SBJ-174-5

 

The same unless they have just changed it in the last 30 days


Just remember that you MUST disconnect the battery before trying to remove the seat other wise you will be heading to the dealer to have your Air Bag Light turned off.

 

Well I am a bit wary about having to remove the front seat and all but Id like a clean install so I think I'll do it. (Now if can just find a '09 Chiltons manual for the Clubman ...hmmmm) As well Id like to run a power ext so I can leave the stock cig lighter sockets open.

The Kuda mount looks the best but Im not sure how the base attachment works. It looks like a know...how permanent is it?

 

i was able to hook up the antenna cable without removing the seat. You'll need a short screwdriver... there is a plate that covers the space where the OEM reciever get's mounted under the seat. With a bit of seat moving back/forth, you can remove the screws to the cover and it will give you enough room to connect the antenna cable....

proclip only cost me about $30 and is very sturdy and easy to install.

 

Ha Ha Ha on the manual it hared ot find own for the Gen 1 cars that is correct.

As for taking the car apart just come back here many of us have had the car apart more than you might imagine.

Front seats are very easy as ong as you remember one thing "Disconnect the Battery First"

There is one connector under the seat. Pull the black plastic retaining clip an it will forcibly release the connector, then using a T-40 Torx undo the 4 bolts. Leaning the seat forward and removing the headrest makes it much easier to get the seat out of the car.

There are then 4 phillips head screws holding a black cover in place just under that cover is the sireing for the sat box. The antena connection has a Pink housing (at least it does on mine).

Any other question please feel free to search around and if you can't find it ask.

 

double post

 

The pink rectangular end of the Antenna cable is a locking Fakra Plug, the CD Int cable SMB jack will plug right into it and I used electrical tape to keep it from slipping out.
I used the Buss Fuse Mini Add-A-Line to a 'G' circuit (see "hot or not..." Sticky Thread on Electrical Board) so XM has power on timer like HiFi with ignition off.

IMPORTANT Your Sirus-XM's Cigarette Liter Plug reduces the voltage from car's 12V down to 5 or 6v for your receiver (should be a label on plug) so you must still include it in the wire setup.

I located my cig-plug inside the fuse compartment, soldered the (+) wire to the tip and from the (-) to sheet metal in the fuse compartment.

 

Thanks Pilotart!

Good to know about the cig plug/power supply. I was planning on getting an extension from radio shack which has the female socket anyway so I could just plug it in but who knows...maybe during install I would have found it easier to lop off the male plug...so thanks!

Im planning on doing the "Buss Fuse Mini Add-A-Line to a 'G' circuit"...is it worth it?....was it a PITA?

 

Simple, easy job, Advance Auto Parts had it at the bottom of the Buss Fuse display, was less than $7 and plug 'n play installation.

Check HERE for which fuse to use, I used F10 (have no telephone installed), but any 30G circuit with a Mini size fuse will do.

Add-A-Line has instructions to confirm that you don't install backwards (no fuse protection) and wire is easy to hide from console area to inside fuse box.

There is also plenty of extra room inside fuse box for plug etc., I soldered direct to plug because using male/female plug set can slip itself loose and lose connection.

Finding ground was most challange and I just soldered a wire to the little sheet metal piece at forward part of fuse box, 100 Watt gun was plenty of heat.

 

Woo hoo! Picked up "the most fun car I've ever owned" early this week. Yes Galoki, I just moved the seat back and forth to remove the four screws and slid the plate to the rear. (Had to rock it back n forth some while pullin on it) I couldnt get much access from the back but thanks to Pilotart's note that the connection was pink helped alot. I just lifted up the front of the plate with the seat slid all the way back, saw a little pink rectangle, reached in with me fingers and yanked that little sucker outta there..BOOM...no prob! The best news is that my reception has greatly improved. Im in the WNC mtns and while I have great roads (and rivers) at my doorstep and everywhere else here, tall trees abound. In my old vehicle I had about 7 dropout points on my way into town everyday. I just drove it and didnt have a single freekin' dropout! Is that not great?!? This has been a great mini-suprise. I noticed that the 5ft patch cable I ordered (and the one from the ant) is way beefy compared to the rx's stock small gauge one...maybe thats the difference?
How did you all route the cable?

I now wished I had already ordered a mount but I wanted to wait till I had the car to see where I really wanted it. I guess I'll order the proclip set up but I gotta say Im a little put off by the pricetag.
Can anyone tell me if the swivel adaptor can be locked in position? Or does it just move freely?

I also bought the Buss add-a-line and a female power ext today but I have no idea where I can find a ground. Pilotart, I cant find the sheet metal plate you talked about...where is it xactly?

Thanks y'all for all the excellent info!

 

The sheet metal tab is forward of the fuse box, may look plastic due to some paint on it, use a magnet to be sure. Others have used existing nuts or screws for ground connection, be sure to include your receiver's cigarette lighter plug in the circuit as it steps voltage down to 5 or 6 Volts for your receiver.

I ran the antenna cable across, under seat rail and slipped under console and forward under left lower edge of console to loop back to location of the XM-SkyFi.

(Click HERE for a larger version of this photo in a new window/tab, then click the photo.)

I have now moved the cap from the boot's cig plug to replace the cork in the photo.

Highly recommend using a 90 degree angle plug into Aux Jack, as you can see the side load in the photo from the straight plug that can put too much side strain on the Aux Jack.
__________________________________________________ _______

Asheville and Knoxville are regular flights for me, so I get to see (and drive Hertz) your roads that really make you wish to be in a MINI!

 

Looking at all the info I cant tell if one of the availble fuse slots is "always on". My sat Rx is a replay type. I like to be able to pause a station when I get out of the car and when I return have an hour or so of songs to click thru just like a DVR. Anyone know?

 

Just from This Thread, it looks like a Terminal 30 would do.

You can also access photos on that thread to show exactly where and what size they are
(some are 'mini' blade fuses and others are larger).

 

Thanks Pilotart. However I'm afraid I honestly just dont get it. I read that too re: terminal 30....but where is it? I take it we arent talking about F30 as it powers the PDC.

Also, I tried to use F10 but couldnt as there was no actual female (metal) connector in that slot so I ended up using F7 which is supposed to be the sunroof and I dont have one! It works fine but seems to timeout after maybe an hour.

My apologies. Though Im willing to put the effort in I find Im coming up short when I try to wrap my head around all this.

 

I am using F10, but since that is a terminal 30G Circuit, it shuts down after twenty or so minutes after ignition is off and no activity with door or boot lid.

F25 might be one to use, it's a 5 Amp Terminal 30 mini fuse and if you don't have the Electrochromatic Rear View Mirror, it would not have any other load on it.

The "F30" refers to a location, see this diagram, (F30 is a Terminal 15 Circuit {CAS Switched} that turns off with ignition).

F3-F5, F8, F9, F22-F28, F34, F38-41, F43-44, F46-49 are all Terminal 30's.

Use caution inserting the Add-A-Circuit plug, if forced you could cause expensive damage to your fuse panel.

 

So, it shuts down when the radio shuts down, right?

I'm thinking of doing this for my Bass600. What Add-A-Circuit plug did you use? I found several 10 amp plugs, but none for 20 amps.

 

The radio shuts down when the key/fob is ejected on mine, then you can push the volume **** and the radio will turn back on and play for another twenty (or so) minutes after the last activity with either door or boot or lock.

With my XM-Receiver on the 30G Circuit, it just remains on for that same time and then would shut down when the radio (if it had been activated after key/fob ejection) would shut down. Difference is that XM-Receiver does not shut down with key/fob ejection.

I got the Buss Fuses HHH Accessory Mini® Add-A-Line (Cat. No. BP/HHH from Cooper Bussmann of St Louis) and it is labled "Use ATM 2-10 Amp Fuse". I bought it at Advance Auto Parts for $6.49 and saw a larger version next to it that would be for use in one of the the larger fuse receptacles and use a 20 or 30 Amp fuse. Large Sockets F6 or F7 are 30G Circuits and would supply power for that timed shutoff and could supply a 20 or 30 Amp fuse. As I recall, you don't have a Sunroof, so F7 would have no other load and could use up to a 30 Amp fuse. If you did not have factory HiFi, F6 should have a power wire connection back in the location where the HiFi's Amp would be installed.

 

Pilotart,

Well youre right, I dont have the electro rearview mirror so if from information you clarified for me the mini fuse F25 is a terminal 30 and that is indeed "continuous" meaning "always on" I should be good-to-go using that one right? Maybe I could use the sunroof 30G Im using now for an additional lighter socket outlet somewhere up front? That would be nice to have though the female sockets from radio shack are pretty clunky looking and I wouldnt really know where/how to mount one....any suggestions where I could mount one?