acutlly i'm a noob in car audio.
I've the non Hi-Fi system, if i want to install an amp to my stock unit, what exactly do i need? i know forsure i need some 8/4 gauges wires, but what about anything else? do i need aything like a PAC AMP-RCA or PAC OEM-2

thank you so much

 

Basicly all you really need is a High to low converter like what's in your second link. then running the new speaker wire or just tapping into your existing

 

well... your gonna need
- power wire (gauge depends on the amp 4ga is generally good)
- a LOC (Line Out Converter) / high out converter
- RCAs (from LOC to amp)
- Ground wire (from amp to chassis)
- in line fuse / circuit breaker

 

make sure you have a battery in there you can give a little for..been running an exide orbital deep cycles as my main for around 4 years without issues pushing 600 watts to the interior...has a stock set of posts and one additional for pos and negative. I've had issues running LOC on stock decks...just wish this car had something you could replace the stock setup with without destroying the dash.

Mostly your stock wiring to the doors can handle up to a certain amount of power depending on the wiring...you need to think about where you're going to stick the amp..lots of planning in volved...measuring...string works good to help you run wiring to find lengths...might want to replace the big three...alternator to battery, battery negative to body and engine to body ground...should be the same gauge as the wiring to the amp...need some sort of wire looking for key on power so the amp turns on with the ignition....like metioned, fuses...I prefer circuit breakers...

check out www.knukonceptz.com for good prices on wiring and kits...if you buy a bunch e-mail and see if you can get a deal on prices....fun stuff.

 

first of all, thank you so much for the help.

So the amp i'm getting is JL a4300. and i believe it has what it call a speaker level input. And is the means the ap already have the high level input?. And i still have something i'm confuse, I search the forum and found that couple of the installation actually doesn't even need to get the HU out??? all i want is just using the amp to power the all 4 speakers... i was totally lost... what i was thinking is, i'm gonna put the amp at the truck... then i need to take the whole rear interior part out and replace the rear speakers and take out the front door panel to replace the front speakers... since everything is already taking out... i need to replace new speaker wire from the speaker to the amp... then at the end hook up the amp all the way to the back of the head unit... i'm so confuse now.. lol.. i understand this topic has been asked a lot of tims on these forum already... i just wanna make sure i didnt' buy anything wrong or do anything stupid (if the JL a4300 is not a good one pls let me know) and i seriously wanna make sure what it the correct way to install the amp for the mini... lastly... is there anything i have to bewear of to avoid engie noise... thx a million...

 

one more question.

if i buy the plug & play loom from here http://www.newministuff.com/new/shop...roducts&cat=25... do i still need to get a line output converter for the JL a4300

thank yo so much.

 

^ that looks like ti should work... but a LOC would be a lot easier...

 

basically an LOC taps into your speaker wire and give you a place to plug your RCA into... the A series JL amps are good (but entry level and "dated" now that the G series are out). if you are replacing all of the door speakers in the car, you will want to run wire from all of the speakers to your 4 channel amp... if you are planning on also installing a sub amp run 4ga, or 2ga from the battery and get a distribution block to split it to each amp (instead of running two power wires from the battery)

so to answer your question, you shouldnt have to remove the HU, JL a series amps are good, and you should look into an audio control LC LOC. it gives you more adjustability and if you go with the LC6, you will get Six Input and Output Channels, and the option to add a sub level ****...

i hope i didnt throw too much at you and i hope that all helped at least a little!

 

THANK YOU SO SO SO much cmr076... and thx for these forum... cmr076 you help me out a lot...

ok.. so if you don't mind... i'm gonna ask a few more question... for the LOC... the only 2 i found is Scosche SLC-4 or trhe soundgate XR4 (since the amp is 80x4... those are the only 2 i think will work) and i did a lot of research.. still don't understand why the soundgate($89) cost so much more than the scosche($17)... is there a main difference or either one is good? do you have any recommandation, but not too expensive

and also... would you mind please explain a little bit more how can i get the amp install, get new speakers wire to wire up all 4 speakers to the amp... but no need to get behind the HU... i thought i need to connect the LOC to the back of the HU then to the amp..

once again.. thank you all so much.

 

LOC's convert a head unit's speaker output into a signal suitable to drive the preamp inputs of an amplifier. the reason you tap into your speakers, is so that the LOC knows when to turn on and off (turns on when your speakers turn on, turns off when the speakers turn off)... if you go to a 12v constant (like the battery) the amp will stay on all the time and kill your battery.

technically you could tap the LOC in behind the head unit, but you would really just be pulling the radio for no reason.


this is a really BAD drawing i found on how the LOC works...


heres the audiocontrol i HIGHLY recommend (well worth the money) http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-AUDIOC...QQcmdZViewItem

 

the wattage rating on the LOC is what the factory radio is rated for... basically any LOC will work

 

hehehe i dont know why but i find that drawing kinda funny.

anyways, yes is a good diagram for a basic sub and amp setup.

good luck with the install! and post pics!