I just purchased an 08 MCS with the stock sound system and was wondering if anyone has done or has heard of anyone replacing the 6x9 rear speakers with 8" subs? If so is the bass acceptable?

 

Probably would be OK for basic Bass response vs stock but that is not the only consideration.

What is your entire upgrade plan?
Are you doing this all yourself?

Are you planning upgrades for the front speakers?

You'll need amps to drive the front component speakers and both 8" subs in back.

You'll have to cut the rear panel plastic and custom fit the grille cover. I don't think it will be possible to put the 8" sub low so that it could be steathy.

The other alternative is to put the sub (10" or 12") in a custom enclosure in the boot and the sub amp down on the floor of the boot with a stealthy cover over it.

For more info contact "motormouth".

 

Thank you for responding. My plans are to replace the front speakers with components and an amp and then also the 2 8" subs in the 6x9 location powered by an amp. However, if that is too pricey at the local shop I will have a custom box (false floor)made for the rear hatch area with either 1 8", 1 10", 1 12" or 2 8" as well as the amps installed there also.

I really want 2 8"s as I had that set up in a previous vehicle and I listen to heavy metal and blues mostly and the 8"s just sound so good.

I will not install this myself however my local place is very good and they have done the install and make custom boxes for my 2 previous vehicles.

I am thinking Diamond Audio 6" components for the front and 2 8" shallow mount Pioneer Premier subs for the 6x9 location. The amp for the front is an MTX 70w x 4 and the sub amp is a Planet Audio 800w Mono.

 

IMO you will not get the sound you want by putting 8s in the factory 6x9 locations... i think you would benefit alot more from a custom box/false floor

where u located

 

I am located in Philadelphia, PA. I understand that the sound of the 8"s in the rear door panels wont give me the same bass response or impact as a custom box/false floor but I am curious to this option for 2 reasons, no impact on my storage area in the boot and also Philadelphia has a lot of crime/car break ins and I do not want anything visible.

I have heard rumors of people installing 8" Image Dynamics subs in the 6x9 location but have not heard the results on the sound.

 

First - you won't go wrong with an image dynamics sub - I've had them before and they very good.

I would recommend a single 10 in a false floor first but if you are going to go with the 8s in the back speaker locations the holes in the metal can be cut out to fit. I'd recommend mounting some 1/2" or even 3/4" MDF in there and attaching the sub to that. Have the shop do it in such a way that when the plastic sides go back on it still looks stock. Keep in mind that this way will be quite a bit worse than going the false floor route unless the shop can make an airtight compartment in the sides.

 

IMO make a baffle out of 1/2 or whatever for the subs and deaden the hell out of the rear speaker area and hope for the best. IMO a slim 10 could be put in the trunk and loose minimal storage space. Would only come up to the top of the bottom cubby area and only take up half of it. Hope that makes sense

 

go for some 8w0 JLs in the rear speaker location, sounds great! or you can go with a JL stealth box (sounds great-er) i have done a number of both and the customer was always happy!

 

I put Elemental Designs 6 inch subs in my 6x9 holes with an older ppi amp giving them about 120w per side. The bass is very loud if you want it, they will rattle the car. These little subs are great and not too expensive.
a pic
http://picasaweb.google.com/usafDan/...41893527092962

 

i can vouch for those subs having owned a pair and used them in many similar instalations

 

Looks great!

Couple questions:
- Did you custom cut the wood template to fit those in, or is that available to buy somewhere?
- Where did you mount the amp?
- How long would a full install take for someone that's somewhat handy and capable?
- Do you find you still get a full range sound from the speakers, or are they more for just bass? If you run those + the fronts, is it comparable to a full front+rear+sub system?

 

While the pic isnt mine ive done very similar

That baffle you will have to make ur self just get a jigsaw for cheap at homedepot and take your time.
Some will put amp(s) under front seats or make a false floor and hide em in the back
A full install isnt a 45 min project on these cars as the entire rear interior has to come out absically
The subs dont get full range prly from 80-100hz down
Do those some components up front and a 4 channel amp and you will have a nice little setup. I deff recommend sound deadening in the doors and especially that rear speaker area

 

The wood is just 1/2 mdf, took a rough measurement then kept trimming till it fit flush. Of course when you get one done the other is one much easier. The subs are mounted on the mdf then they are slid in place. I wanted the sub behind the baffle to keep the subs from hitting the plastic trim pranel.
Took me almost all day to install the subs and amps. I am a little bit on the **** side when it comes to wiring, don't like watching my cars going up in flames.
Take a look at the pics, using the idea other folks had used, I mounted the amps to floor of the rear then made a false cove to go over them. Keep the cover about an inch short in the width so you can get some air flow. Have yet to have my amps over heat.
I personally think this is one of the best sounding systems I have ever had in a car. I cross the fronts and sub at 80hz using the head units xover. I think the key is getting front speakers that are good quality. I have a cheap sony 35 watt amp powering the front speakers. As the subs broke in I had to keep turning down the gain on the sub amp. The bass was really getting to loud for my tastes. The subs are dual 2 ohm voice coil. Each coil is going to a channel on the 4 channel PPI amp.
If you take your time and watch ebay, craigslist, etc... you can get a nice system on the cheap. The only thing I bought new was the subs. I don't have over 500$ in this and it sounds great. Hope this helps.

 

I just placed an order through Elemental Design for their 6" sub and a custom enclosure made by them in the dimensions of 14.5" x 8.5" x 4.25" creating a cubic foot of .30 and I will install this under the front passenger seat which is 16" x 10" x 5". Thank you guys for turning me onto the Elemetal Design name brand.

 

These are awesome ideas... thanks, I'm seriously thinking about doing this! I love that it keeps everything stock and is fairly easy to do.

 

i wanna see pics of sub installed under seat

 

I've got Kicker Free-Air 6x9 subs in the side panels (same surface area as an 8"). CDT makes a CL-69 sub...I'd do those if you want a perfect fit (the Kickers I have haven't been made in a decade).

I just got a pair of Elemental SQ10's...I'm going to build a shallow mount box for the rear well and pull out the Kickers and put in 8" MB Quart mid-bass drivers. I've been more than happy with the 6x9's as subs, but I listen to a ton of reggae and need a bit more volume.

 

be careful with the SQ10s while they have no problem wangin watch out they dont have a ton of mechanical travel, as i killed one by pushing it tooo hard :-)

 

freeair subs don't do well with too much power either

 

The CDT CL-69's look like they may be just the ticket as I don't need hard thumping bass - just something better than muddy stock sound. Is anyone out there using them? What speakers are you using up front. I have a 2009 JCW Hardtop on order - due in early September. I want to have all the bits purchased before delivery. Also, what do you all think of a JL Audio Cleansweep?

 

the Cleansweep is nice but be aware that to get it's full benefit, you should use it's external volume controller. If you don't plan to do that, skip it and get a normal Navone LOC-4 and use the extra $$ towards speakers and amp.

 

i wasnt aware you could use the clean sweep without the supplied external volume ****... another option is audiocontrol (no external volume ****)

 

you can but that sort of defeats the purpose. OEM stereos have variable treble and bass EQ based on volume. The CleanSweep takes a certain level input and re-eq's the output of the OEM unit based on playing the calibration CD included with the unit. If you change that input, the EQ changes. The idea is you set the stock radio to max unclipped output, run the CleanSweep setup, then use the CS ****. You can of course still use the stock ****.

 

^^ i am very familiar with the unit, i have just never seen one, or sold/installed one without using the included ****!