Year: 2006
Make: MINI
Model: Hardtop
Price: $5900
Mileage: 65000
Color: British Racing Green / White Top
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (Region): Midwestern

I am the second owner of this car. I haven't driven it in the winter since I've owned it. The previous owner claims to have kept it in the garage most winters. I don't have any reason to not believe that. I'll share out my repair spreadsheet, but here are some of the highlights.

- Only synthetic oil used with OEM filter
- Fresh MINI coolant at 56,000 miles (and again at 61,000 miles)
- New oil pan at 57,300 miles (drain plug was tightened by Arnold himself and wound up getting stripped)
- New belt tensioner at 57,300 miles (just to play it safe)
- New power steering fan at 57,300 miles (again, preventative)
- Redline MTL transmission oil at 57,300
- Cooling fan relay, radiator foam, and coolant flush at 61,000. The first stage fan was not being activated, determined that the relay on the fan unit was shot. Rather than replace the whole fan I purchased a relay and rewired. It's a common issue.
- Fuel filter done at 64,800
- New timing chain, guides, and tensioner at 64,800 miles. Old one was very slightly worn and caused ticking on cold startups. When this was done I also replaced the timing chain cover gasket, front end seal, valve cover basket and all new valve cover bolts.

Wheels / tires
- 17" Kosei wheels with 235 width Yokohama tires. I picked up the wheels used on this forum with the Yokohama tires on. Honestly, I was planning on running them at most this summer. The grip is incredible, and really transforms the car. Due to the stiff sidewall, the ride is a lot stiffer. I also have a set of x-lites I can throw in for extra if wanted.

Brakes
- New Centric slotted brake rotors, EBC redstuff pads at 57,000 miles. Pads were bed in properly using EBC's start / stop method)
- WMW brake stiffening bushings and stainless steel lines at 57,000 miles
- New MINI rear brake pipes replaced due to corrosion

Engine
- WMW 15% reduction pulley at 57,300 miles (with cooler plugs and new drive belt)
- New aluminum coolant reservoir. The old one had a very slight crack which caused a coolant pressure leak.
- ATI super damper crank pulley at 61,200 miles. The old one was starting to separate and caused the belt to wobble slightly.
- Boost gauge install at 64,800 miles
- Cravenspeed dipstick

Suspension
- WMW strut bar and tower plates. The towers were slightly bowed up, so I pounded them down a bit and used the plates to prevent damage

Interior
- Cravenspeed short shifter and OEM shifter cables at 61,000
- Cravenspeed shifter bushings to replace the old rubber ones
- Aux input
- Cravenspeed scissor phone mount

Exterior
- Joey modded tail lights and headlights
- JCW upper and lower grill installed (Turned out really good if I do say so myself)
- MINI third reverse light

The car is in excellent condition but isn't without flaws. It has a spot of rust by the driver's side tailight. It has a slow oil leak that I believe is due to the oil cooler housing gasket. The power steering lines have a slow leak and will need to be replaced as well. Also, the passenger side strut front is leaking. Before its 11th birthday, the driver's door was replaced under the rust warranty. The hatch also had rust repair done under warranty at our local Mercedes dealership.

When I wrote this post I forgot about a small EVAP code the car throws every other week or so. The code started happening shortly after I replaced the brake pipes. My guess is the evap canister needs to be resealed that I removed to replace the brake pipes, but I haven't diagnosed it yet. I've been simply resetting the code and the car has been fine. Because of this, I'm dropping the price.

Here is my spreadsheet that lists everything I've done to it since purchase along with prices. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

 

Dropped price

 

Anyone know how much repairs for the issues listed would generally cost at a shop that knows what they're doing? I don't have the car knowledge to be able to do those things confidently without worrying about forgetting a screw or pipe along the way, even with youtube videos and tutorials.

 

I haven't priced out the issues I mentioned from a mechanic simply because I was planning on doing the work myself. I would suggest with this (or any other car) to do a pre-purchase inspeciton at a trusted shop. They should be able to get you the numbers you need, too.

 

Still available, could work the bentley manual, some other cravenspeed bits, belt tool, etc. into bargaining. I also have x-lites sitting in my attic.

 

Dropped the price, I'm getting pressure to get this out of my driveway.

 

Still available, although I do have some interest in it after I dropped the price.

 

Still available.

 

Price dropped!

 

Added interior pics and carfax report

 

Sold.