Well today I went to an Autocross event here in Homestead-Miami Speedway and I liked what I saw. It looks like a lot of fun and I want to begin running my car in it. I'm not looking to be competitive, just to have some fun, legally anyways lol. Well I decided that since I have some time for the next event as it is not scheduled yet, I want to upgrade some suspension/brake parts. I'm on a budget and do mainly street driving, although it does get spirited at times, however I feel I need to upgrade some stuff for Auto-X, as well as for the street (Just want a good balance).

Well, here's my question... I'm thinking of changing the following things and probably in this order, although I'm sure they will all be changed before I Auto-X. I want to know what you all think and if the prices are ok.

1) EBC Green Stuff Pads - F/R ($80/$70)
2) SS Brake Lines - $ ??
2.5) Brake Fluid - What do you recommend?
3) H-Sport 19mm Rear SwayBar - $225
3.5) H-Sport Lowering Springs (already purchased, just need to be installed and I figured I'd do it at the same time as the SwayBar to save some cash)

BTW, because of the 19% pulley I'm in Street Mod (SM) Class. And please don't tell me I should Auto-X with the stock suspension first to get to know why I need to upgrade the springs/swaybar. I do enough aggressive/spirited driving to know why already, hence the decision to upgrade...

Thanks...

 

I can't offer too much advice for suspension tuning other than what I've read online. But I can suggest looking into Hawk HPS+ pads versus the EBC Greens. I've had the greens and switched over to the Hawks at the front. They provide more bite than I have tire and work well on the street: will see how they hold up next weekend when I get my first taste driving at an auto-x instead of being a passenger. BTW SS brake lines are more advantageous to brake feel than performance. There is a small gain, but real marginal. Good luck!

 

Sigh. To learn to run, you first need to learn to walk Take or leave this advice, but the sooner you accept the posssibility that you may not know as much as you think you know, the quicker you'll improve at autocross.

But anyhow, since you are in SM whether you want to be or not, I'd say the best money you can spend is camber plates, an alignment, and an LSD (the LSD is a big ticket item, but important). The bigger rear swaybar is a good way to increase traction on the inside front wheel in the absence of an LSD.

Also, I wouldn't put those springs on without new shocks if you're interested in autocross. Shocks are a big deal for autocrossing.

 

OK. Find the best GS or HS MINI. Check their times.
If you're within 2 seconds of them on a 40 second course then you're close to being good enough to really use the suspension.

The stock brakes are all you need in auto-x but new fluid is always good. I run Motul 5.1.
Braided lines don't make a huge difference but do up initial bite a bit.

The rear bar is a real good idea. The tubular bar will be light and should work well. I wish there had been tube bars when I bought mine. I figure the soft setting won't be much stiffer than stock and a good place to start.

The H-Sport springs will shorten the life of your OEM struts.. It's a well discussed topic.

 

Thanks for the responses so far. The input is great.

Must be honest, the springs isn't so much for the auto-x as much as for the look/stance of the car... Mainly the only mod I'm doing solely for the auto-x is the rear bar.

@ CARVNIT, let me know how the Hawk Pads hold up... any idea on price?

@ satay-ayam, not sure if you read the part of my post where I said I'll be doing mainly STREET driving with the occasional auto-x, therefore the LSD is definitely out of the question as thats upwards of 2G anyways... the front camber plates are out as well... I don't know everything about anything, I just think I need the car with a little less understeer... Thanks for the heads up about the springs!

@ obehave, thanks for the heads up about the springs and the setting of the bar as well as the brake fluid. I might have to try your challenge though... hopefully the next event is sooner than later...

 

You're making my point for me ... You don't have a car that understeers as much as you think it does One of the best quotes about autocross (and driving in general) that I've ever heard was that 95% of all understeer is caused by the driver, not the car.

And on that note, not all understeer is sloppy driving, and the Mini does want to push in sweepers... so the camber plates will do as much (or more) to eliminate understeer than the rear swaybar, AND it will give you better tire wear if you end up doing more autocross than you think (which you probably will ).

Also, I forgot to say that I think that stickier tires should actually be the first thing to buy, if you don't already have some really sticky tires.

 

I'd leave the brakes alone. OEM Mini brakes are pretty stout. Maybe change the fluid (I use ATE) if what you have is old.

The rear bar is a good idea. I'll also second the vote for good tires. I've run H-sport springs for 2 years. They did ruin the factory dampers in 1 year, 5k miles and 1 autocross season. Also, the H-sport fronts are actually softer than stock. I recently changed to H&R in front and have been happy with them.

 

I concur with most of what's being said...

1. Flush the brake fluid with something good. Leave the brakes alone for now. Eventually, you'll want to step up to some good pads - IMHO, the EBC Greens are NOT suited for autocrossing. Here in TX, they get too hot and retain too much heat between runs and fade like all h*ll in all but the chilliest of events (just my experience). I'm running Colbalt GT-S pads and they've proven themselves on the street, autocross, and track - better than anything else I've used and 1/2 the price. They are dirty and loud, but they stop like nobody's business ALL the time.

2. Stay totally stock for a few events and get your bearings...

3. Take an Evolution Autocross School or two... one of the fastest ways to get fast, faster, IMHO.

4. Rear swaybar first.

5. Then springs...

6. Then wheels and tires...

And, after a full season, maybe:

7. More suspension - specifically camber plates and adjustable rear arms. Pair these up with a great alignment. Possibly swap out the springs for a good coilover...

Too many people put too much stuff on their cars right out of the box... That's fine for the street (although, I could argue about that, too, since I think too many people are running way too much rear bar, but I digress)... BUT, for autocrossing or the track, the modded car is usually eminately more capable than the driver and covers for crappy habits. IMHO, if you take a novice and put them in a stock car versus a someone in a highly modded one and run them through an entire season, once the guy/gal in the stock car starts making mods (because he/she will understand the dynamics of what they're changing) they'll end up being faster in the long run...

 

Guilty

I actually had most mods done before I started auto-xing.

I've got pretty quick car. Nothing great but nice.
This weekend I was beat by 4 seconds (me 68 - well experienced auto-x guy 64) in a Cooper. His first event in that car. Nothing but race rubber. His girlfriend beat my by 2 Both are very experienced but it proves the point being made.
Seat time will make you much faster than mods.

Instruction and seat time are numero uno.

 

Well, I've decided to take the advice and for now will just change out the brake fluid as I'm not sure if the original owner ever changed it. I see what you all are saying and I agree that I probably will be doing more autocrossing than I think I will so I might as well do it right.

Any idea on the price of the Evolution Autocross School or a website? Hmm this might be a good birthday present for me and my car lol...

 

Took the Evo school. Great stuff.
I paid $325 for 2 days but that was with a club discount.

Here's their home page